Removal Tips for Rearview Mirror Area / Remote Control
#1
Burning Brakes
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Guys,
I am now on a mission to locate a switched power source for a V1 that I would like to install directly below the rearview mirror. I have the self-dimming rearview mirror which activates upon ignition switch.
There is a 'wire stalk' from the headliner containing the universal remote to a plastic cover thing that has the white LED that illuminates the interior of the cabin. Then there is a separate small wire stalk that travels to the mirror from that plastic housing. Has anyone removed or does anyone know how to remove the plastic housing in between the two wire stalks to access the wires in there? I assume the left and right halves snap together so simply inserting a wide srtaight edge and twisting would do the trick (this is how it worked on my M5 - same sort of assembly), but I figured I would check first. My gut tells me that once I get that cover off, I can use a meter and find a ground and switched power source.
If there is no switched power source, alternatively I can run a hot and ground inside that top wire stalk and tap into the switched power for the remote control in the headliner, which is exactly what I did for the M5 install. So, does anyone know how to get access to the wires behind the remote control, i.e., disassembly instructions up there? It may have to do with removing the light lens first.
If this works, it may be a real clean way to install the V1 on the front windshield with almost no visible wires, save the 2" wire run from the V1 to the plastic housing. And, it would be switched power!
I will post detailed instructions, wire colors, pix, etc. WHEN I do this project, because I will do this project or destroy the rearview mirror and housing assembly while trying!!!!.
I am now on a mission to locate a switched power source for a V1 that I would like to install directly below the rearview mirror. I have the self-dimming rearview mirror which activates upon ignition switch.
There is a 'wire stalk' from the headliner containing the universal remote to a plastic cover thing that has the white LED that illuminates the interior of the cabin. Then there is a separate small wire stalk that travels to the mirror from that plastic housing. Has anyone removed or does anyone know how to remove the plastic housing in between the two wire stalks to access the wires in there? I assume the left and right halves snap together so simply inserting a wide srtaight edge and twisting would do the trick (this is how it worked on my M5 - same sort of assembly), but I figured I would check first. My gut tells me that once I get that cover off, I can use a meter and find a ground and switched power source.
If there is no switched power source, alternatively I can run a hot and ground inside that top wire stalk and tap into the switched power for the remote control in the headliner, which is exactly what I did for the M5 install. So, does anyone know how to get access to the wires behind the remote control, i.e., disassembly instructions up there? It may have to do with removing the light lens first.
If this works, it may be a real clean way to install the V1 on the front windshield with almost no visible wires, save the 2" wire run from the V1 to the plastic housing. And, it would be switched power!
I will post detailed instructions, wire colors, pix, etc. WHEN I do this project, because I will do this project or destroy the rearview mirror and housing assembly while trying!!!!.
Last edited by 1080iAddict; 09-18-2005 at 11:30 AM.
#2
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I had my dealer install my V1 under mirror on my 997. Tech ran wire up under header down driver side pillar which can be removed easily, down to fuse box. There are two extra unused fuses to connect to. Tech says this is the only way to do it . If you tap into anything else it will mess up the computer that measures all power draws. It was about 1 hour. This way it's totally on its own fused power source. No visible wires. Hope this helps.
#3
Burning Brakes
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I am wondering if there is a computer that is really measuring the power draw on the self-dimming rear view mirror. I mean, we are talking german electronics here.
If they actually put a self-checking power programming sequence to check if the rear view mirror is being selfish and using too much power, that would be amazing.
With that said, I just don't seem to have the ***** to pry off that cover behind the rearview mirror to look for the wires. If nothing else, I have determined that this car's specifications are incredibly tight. I mean, there is NO movement at all at the seam of that plastic cover and if I break it or crack it, I will really bum out. But I am telling ya... I know there is a switched power source under that cover. Question is whether it is 12 volts. It would be a PERFECT source to tap a V1 powerline. Or at least to try it.
Guys, feel free to try and unsnap and remove that plastic cover for me.
If you do it, Ill do it and meter the wires. We're all in this together.
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With that said, I just don't seem to have the ***** to pry off that cover behind the rearview mirror to look for the wires. If nothing else, I have determined that this car's specifications are incredibly tight. I mean, there is NO movement at all at the seam of that plastic cover and if I break it or crack it, I will really bum out. But I am telling ya... I know there is a switched power source under that cover. Question is whether it is 12 volts. It would be a PERFECT source to tap a V1 powerline. Or at least to try it.
Guys, feel free to try and unsnap and remove that plastic cover for me.
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#4
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1080i, I would strongly consider having a Porsche tech run the V1 line underneath the headliner and A-pillar trim down to the fuse box . I had this done on my 996 and plan on doing it on the 997. My guy (actually an Audi tech friend of mine) found an unused switched circuit (heated seats in my car). So the V1 has it's very own circuit and its very own fuse. It's a real slick setup. The wire can't be seen at all. It'd hate to mess up anyhting on the car by tapping into something like the dimming mirrors.
Last edited by AeroSmith; 09-16-2005 at 11:54 AM.
#5
Burning Brakes
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AeroSmith... I hear you...thanks. I appreciate that and it may likely come to that solution. But the M5 install is so slick and the V1 gets its power from that same area as I am looking at for the 997. I cross-posted this stuff on Rennteam and Renntech and it appears nobody even tried this before. It could work and I could be a pioneer!!! Or, I could be the first to blow up his 997 through the rearview mirror too. But this country was founded on innovation, no??
So far, I cant get the cover off the housing behind the mirror so it does not matter anyway!
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So far, I cant get the cover off the housing behind the mirror so it does not matter anyway!
#6
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Check with MMD on Rennteam. He has apparently already tapped into the power by the rear-view mirror. From his brief description, it sounds like everything just snaps apart. But, having done the V1 install on lots of new cars, it is a bit unnerving to start yanking on parts hoping they will snap free.
Is having the V1 on it's own dedicated circuit from the fuse box really a benefit? It seems like lots of trouble to run the power wire all the way to the fuse box when there is power available just inches from where the V1 will be mounted. The open fuse slot is a non-issue since the V1 has an inline fuse already.
Is having the V1 on it's own dedicated circuit from the fuse box really a benefit? It seems like lots of trouble to run the power wire all the way to the fuse box when there is power available just inches from where the V1 will be mounted. The open fuse slot is a non-issue since the V1 has an inline fuse already.
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#8
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No problem 1080i. The discussion is here:
http://www.rennteam.com/showflat.php...&page=6#132270
Also check the links in the first posting. In the first link, "Zeke" gives a description of his process and was where I saw the reference to the "multi-colored wire" being the power. The other link has pics for the fuse box install.
TVN
http://www.rennteam.com/showflat.php...&page=6#132270
Also check the links in the first posting. In the first link, "Zeke" gives a description of his process and was where I saw the reference to the "multi-colored wire" being the power. The other link has pics for the fuse box install.
TVN
#9
Burning Brakes
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Thanks. I checked all the links and threads within that thread.....problem is that they talk about tapping the light and getting there through the manual sunroof panel...but I have a cab, so there is no panel.
#10
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Originally Posted by 1080iAddict
Thanks. I checked all the links and threads within that thread.....problem is that they talk about tapping the light and getting there through the manual sunroof panel...but I have a cab, so there is no panel.
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I assume you could get there by removing the light cluster since, according to the manual, it has to be removed to replace bulbs, right? Hopefully a cab owner with a successful V1 install will come forward. I know the major pain in my M3 convertible V1 install was not the access or the wiring but trying to fit the V1 hard-wire kit in the tiny space behind the trim.
#11
Burning Brakes
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Of course, my owners manual does not say how to change a bulb in the light cluster! And no, its not on page 232 of the manual as Loren suggested on renntech. I must have an older manual? Or newer manual? I think I just pull on the assembly, but the thing is so tightly snapped in that I am affraid I'll break it.
Thanks for the color complement!
Thanks for the color complement!