OCBen

Well, while I’m certainly no expert, much less a guru, I do know a few things about some things, and as for the rest I usually know where to look for the answers.

I think there’s a section on neglected paint in either or both of those sites. You may want to search there and read up on what they recommend. But based on your description of the amount of neglect, sounds to me like your Benz there could use a good power buffing after a thorough clay job. That’s what I would do if it were mine. But don’t try this yourself if you’ve never power buffed before. Call around and find the best detailers who are rotary polisher pros. They should be able to do your Benz in about an hour or so and charge you anywhere from 60 to 100 bucks.

Doesn’t sound to me like you would want to spend an entire weekend doing it the hard way by hand. You apparently weren’t that diligent about caring for this Benz before. Somehow I have a feeling you’re not about to become super diligent all of a sudden. Unless of course I’ve made a convert out of you.

Bill - Chicago

I clayed my 997s last night for the first time. It has around 3,900 miles on it. The clay was barely dirty after completing the job. Could be because I don't keep it outside much, not sure. Just an FYI for those thinking about whether to use clay on a new car or not.

I have clayed several other cars in the past and had do throw out the clay when I was done.

lexpilot

I've been a waxer all of my life. For the last 15 years I've preferred NuFinish as it was high rated by Consumer Reports.
OCBEN,
As I understand it as long as I do the cleaning, clay bar, polishing with Imperial Hand Glaze, I can use the "NuFinish" as my protective coating. My experience has been that it is long lasting even though I wax my civilian cars 6+ times a year anyway.
Will the cleaner (small amount) in the synthetic NuFinish be adverse to the IHG polished surface ?
Thanks for your postings. For some of us "waxing" our car is the best "mod".

royalpar1

I just spent over $200.00 with autogeeks, buying the pinnacle and wolfgang and microfibers. I do not think I have spent $200.00 in my life on wax products. LOL, I never before gave it a thought but since I am reading these posts I have developed OCB.

royalpar1

OC, I am going to have a clear bra installed when I pick up my car next week. Do we wax over the bra or just around it?

1080iAddict

I too just spent like $225 at autogeek.net on MF towels, Klasse AIO and HGSG, and Pinnacle Souveran. And this after the washing stuff from Griots a few weeks ago. I'm all in - but I am done buying stuff. This is it. At least I am stocked for the next year.

And were off!! I did what any good 911 owner would do on the last day of vacation. I got up at the crack of dawn, watched the sun rise up over the crest of the Atlantic into the sky (which was sick by the way - you west coasters may get the sunsets, but we get the sunrises for the new days), and drove back at 6:45 am to get home and open my waiting UPS package from autogeek.

My first coat of Klasse AIO is now firmly bonded to my 911 (at least I hope it is!!) It took me 2.5 hours excluding wheels (will do those last). I followed the directions precisely. I used a damp MF applicator and applied the product, and then used MF towels to buff out the product. I used linear motions from front to back to follow the wind (Thanks OCBen). I did not wait for product to dry - per instructions there was no need - but on average it stayed on the car for about 7-10 minutes between applying and buffing doing 1 panel at a time. However, HGSG instructions say it should dry first before removal per the instructions on that bottle.

I basically did all painted surfaces and also the headlights and taillights and signals and clear side markers. Did not do windshield (should I?). All I know is basically everyone said to hit the glass/plastic lighting surfaces also and it could not hurt...so I did. 2.5 hours and its done. Is that a reasonable time? Too long? Too short? I will say the product went on and off REAL easy.

Tomorrow I will apply the first coat of HGSG. Many of you guys say 2 coats of that stuff, and many say its harder to remove. Is 2 coats really necessary? I mean, is there that much of a difference to justify doing it twice? Or is once enough and then the final coat of Souveran? Should I wait overnight prior to Souveran application to let the HGSG cure?

I will say this. It does not at all seem like a chore so far. I like feeling and learning all the curves of the car. I got up, close and personal. I am getting to know the nooks and crannies and its enjoyable. We'll see what happens after the HGSG if I feel the same way!!

Thanks again for the great thread everyone - learning lots.

OCBen

I've heard of NuFinish and have seen it in AutoZone and elsewhere but I'm not really familiar with it. So I did a search on their website and at other sites that discuss the product and it’s pretty clear to me this product only comes as a combined cleaner/wax formulation, even though they call it “The Once a Year Car Polish.” Unfortunately this product falls under the same category as Turtle Wax, Simoniz Wax and all the other one-step easy application products with the additional claim that the product can last up to a year. I wouldn’t rely on the opinion of Consumer Reports to help me pick out wax products for my Porsche, though I do rely on their invaluable opinion on products such as vacuum cleaners and other appliances. I believe they give their Consumer Reports Best Buy rating to a product based on cost and how long it lasts, and maybe that’s how NuFinish got top billing in the one-step, wax-on/wax-off category.

NuFinish is often demonstrated on cars with heavy oxidation to show the dramatic difference a single application can make, which leads me to believe the product has some serious abrasive cleaners built in. This product is popular with owners of RVs and other large vehicles that they don’t want to be waxing and fussing with that often – who can blame them. I would say it is in the same category as Klasse All-In-One as a one-step, but because it probably has more aggressive cleaners than the AIO, it’s really not even in the same class.

But to answer your question, I would not apply NuFinish after using the 3M Imperial Hand Glaze. The IHG is a very, very fine polish that will give your paint an awesome wet-look, show car finish. If you apply NuFinish right afterwards the aggressive cleaners (abrasive polishers) will ruin the hard work you just put in giving your car that wet-look shine. It’s analogous to using a medium grit sandpaper on a surface after smoothing it down with a fine grit. If you insist on using NuFinish I would recommend that you not spend your money on the IHG, because you’ll just be wasting it. And if you use the IHG over the NuFinish, then you’ll be wasting that product’s protective ingredients since the IHG will polish it away. Now if you want to use NuFinish as a medium grade polisher for removing swirl marks and other light scratches and then follow it up with IHG as a fine polisher, I see nothing wrong with that (in case you have cases of the stuff). But I would recommend 3M’s Swirl Mark Remover for that.

OCBen

Your clear bra installer will no doubt instruct you on how to care for your clear bra after installation and he will also let you know that it is okay to wax over it. I have the 3M Aerospace clear film installed on my car and I've waxed it already with Klasse SG. I didn't use the AIO because I was afraid that the fine cleaners/polishers in that product would not be good on the soft plastic film, especially before it had fully cured and hardened. But after two months now I think I'll experiment on a non-conspicuous little spot with the AIO to see if it works okay. The only reason I would use AIO is to see if I can bring out a better gloss on the plastic film. But if it doesn't (plastic being plastic) then I'll stick with the pure waxes. I certainly don't want to prematurely wear away the expensive plastic film.

OCBen

Well, first of all, having 2 coats on will not make it any harder to buff off the residue than it is with only one coat, so you can scratch that (figuratively speaking of course). Use my technique of using a damp MF-towel for product removal followed by an immediate wipe down and buff with a completely dry one and you shouldn’t have any problems there.

The experts say to use 2 coats because the first coat essentially fills in all the little microscopic scratches, valleys and divots in the paint that are invisible to the naked eye. After the first coat has cured (I usually wait at least 4 hrs, others recommend longer) the second coat will build a high gloss layer on top of the 1st coat, which is really noticeable. The first time I did that I was like “WOW”. And after the 2nd coat has cured then apply your carnauba wax.

The best way that I have found to apply SG and other pure waxes (non-polishers/cleaners) is to apply it in a swirling, circular manner, overlapping and going back and forth over the area so that you can work the product into the paint without missing a spot. And always by hand. This is contrary to when you use a polish or a cleaner/wax where the motion must be linear to prevent swirl marks. Just think of a sanding block when you use a polish/cleaner and you won’t go wrong – you want the motion linear. When you apply a wax just think of applying a moisturizing lotion – you want to work it in. Some guys like to apply carnauba waxes with their bare fingers just so they can really work it in. I prefer to use a fine foam applicator when I use Souveran carnauba wax. Also, don’t use too much of it, you’ll only waste it. Just use enough to cover the area with a thin coat. Once you feel your applicator not gliding as easily, you dip in for some more. But you know that already, right? Hope this helps.

1080iAddict

After a night of moderate/moderate+ drinking last night out with friends (wife drove and no not the 911 - it was raining ), yes I was up at 7:30 and into the garage. Not 1, but 2 coats of HGSG separated by 5 hours cure time. It helped that my buddy came over with his 996 to help me break in my new supplies.

Wow I have not sweat like that on a car for a long time. each HGSG application / removal was 2.5 hours. So lets see... 3 hour initial wash, dry and windex and etc., plus 2.5 Klasse AIO, plus 2 coats HGSG, and I am 10.5 hours into this initial detail job.

She looks pretty sick!!!! And I have not yet applied the Souveran.

Here is the trick I found regarding Klasse HGSG. Yes you need to let it dry - but let it 'just dry' and it can be removed pretty easily with a dry MF towel. Those that have difficulty with removal probably let it dry too long, as I found that the last section of removal had dryed for about an hour and required the OCBen method of removal.

So it continues....

OCBen

Glad to hear you're putting in the effort to do the job right and that you're starting to see some great results already (your pics will be mandatory of course)

That's what I used to do several years ago with the SG, let it "just dry" and then wipe off before it got too difficult to remove. But I found out later what the manufacturer had in mind when they recommend that you let it dry completely - maximum absorption of the sealing ingredients. But when you let it fully dry, it's a bitch to remove, as you know. One expert recommends using a detailing spray to spritz over it and then remove and someone else recommended spritzing with just water. Well, it's a lot easier to just use a damp MFT for removal than having to reach for the bottle and spritz every now and then, and it's also a lot faster. Also I wouldn't want to use the detailing spritz 'cuz it has liquid wax and I want to save my best wax for covering the SG.

Keep in mind that my recommended method is not a last resort method but a preferred method of glaze/wax removal. I even use it on Souveran after letting it dry for at least a half hour.

1080iAddict

Thanks for the info. All 911 related posts are now on hold for me as I watch and pray for the gulf coast and New Orleans. It really puts all this detailing stuff into perspective as it seems increasingly evident that almost everyone in New Orleans is about to loose everything. I have been watching weather for years and I am terrified for New Orleans and surrounding areas.

Godspeed to you all if you are there. Get out and be safe.

Likemystoppie?

Actually, I have been transformed. I want to get all the practice in before I get my 997. So, now's as a good time as ever to get started!! Thanks!!

kl997s

OC, thanks for all the info. I have purchased Klasse AIO and HGSG. I have learned a lot from you and others in this thread. However, I still have 2 questions. I plan to follow your suggestion: one coat of AIO and then 2 coats of HGSG. Do I buff after the first coat of HGSG before I apply the second coat, or do I apply the first coat and then apply the second coat after the first coat is cured, and then buff. I plan to do this detailing and waxing twice a year. I think I read it somewhere in this thread that car wash shampoo or detergent will dissolve or wash away wax. Will shampoo or detergent wash away AIO and HGSG. I have purchased Sonus Gloss Shampoo with the intention to use it to wash my car between detailing and waxing (twice a year). Should I use Sonus Gloss Shampoo or just use water to wash my car between each detailing and waxing? Thanks.

OCBen

Aw, c'mon dude, you weren't paying attention. You're not gonna get a passing grade if you don't pay attention.

Car wash shampoo (soap specifically formulated for washing cars) is safe to use on a coat of wax, just use enough to make the water in your wash bucket feel a bit soapy with a few suds forming a head in the bucket. The Sonus Shampoo is undoubtedly one of the better products around, so you made a good choice there. But don't ever wash your car with just plain water - you're asking for scratches if you do. (I can't believe you asked that ) The soap helps dissolve and loosen up dirt (especially the dirt you can't see) and provides lubrication for your wash mitt as you glide it over your car's finish. Just make sure you spray an area down with water just before you use the soapy wash mitt in case your initial wet down has dried (but you probably know that, I hope). The only soap mentioned in this thread as not being recommended is the harsh dish washing detergent type that some use for stripping the wax off their cars, which can potentially prematurely dry up your molding and other rubber parts. (Reread that discussion if you missed the point.)

Okay, now to answer your first question. Buffing is nothing more than using a dry towel (preferably a micro-fiber towel) to wipe over an area you just removed the wax residue from, to make sure you got it all and to bring out the shine some. I just use the second towel I'm using in my wax removal method to go over it thoroughly and I'm done with buffing. So the answer to your question is to apply the second coat after you've thoroughly removed the residue off the first coat, which unavoidably involves a little buffing in the process.