VS1

I posted the below on the V1 hardwire thread as well - but thought others might find it useful as well.

I did my V1 installation earlier today. The DIY is as follows.

Mount the V1 on the L side of the rear view mirror running power from the fuse panel. Then tuck the power cord into the headliner over to the drivers A pillar. Tuck between the A pillar and windshield and then very carefully tuck between the A pillar and dashboard to the door hinge area. The cord fits very nicely under the weatherstripping on down to the carpet by the fuse panel. Remove the fuse panel cover, then the 3 screws holding the carpet in place, then the surrounding carpet. Using a blade fuse tap - tap a switched fuse [I tapped the tiptronic control fuse which is unused in my car (6-speed)]. Take a foot of 18 guage wire and crimp a 90 degree - 0.250" female connector to one end and splice the other end to the power line of the hardwire module [you may be able to eliminate this step - I don't think the extra length is required]. Connect the connector to the fuse tap. Find a suitable place to run the ground wire to [I ran it to the screw behind the throttle because it was easy, convenient, and didn't require splicing to lengthen the ground wire]. Plug in the phone cord from the V1 unit to the appropriate jack. Sit in the drivers seat and mount the concealed display so that it is normally visible between the steering wheel and the cruise control stalk. Connect the phone/power cord and fish the wire under the steering column. Plug into the V1 hardwire module. Test the connections by putting the key in. Once the key hits the stop in the ignition - the unit and concealed display should power up [with the PCM and everything else]. Pull the key out and everything should power down. Wire tie the power cord from the concealed display up and out of the way under the dash [I tied it to the footwell lighting wiring harness]. Tuck all the wires and control module under the carpeting, replace the fuse panel carpet surround and the fuse panel cover.

I tucked the control module under the carpet in the space just to the right of the dead pedal. Then tucked the rest of the wiring behind the carpet or the fuse panel carpet.

I didn't think to take any photos while I was completing the install - but beelow are some pictures to help with the visuals. The first should be the V1 mounted on the windshield. The second is the concealed display. Third is a shot of the fuse panel with the tap and the ground behind the throttle. The V1 control module is behind the carpet where noted and all wiring is behind the carpet or up under the dash [except where you see the ground]. Finally, a shot of the drivers footwell as a finished installation.

jcnesq

VS1 - Thanks for posting the write up and pictures! To clarify, it looks like the V1 main unit is to the LEFT of your rear view mirror, not the right? Also, in normal driving how well can you see the remote? I was considering putting my remote in the same place but was worried it would be mostly blocked by the steering wheel.

VS1

Oops - you are right, I mean left is correct. Visibility to the display is actually quite good if you place it properly. I sat in my normal driving position and placed it to maximize vis.

Thanks - and I've corrected the above.

ceagon

Great post, thanks! Very helpful.

sf_c63

Pointless since you already successfully hard word via fuse box but you could have hard wired by splicing into the cabin light wiring.

There's a DIY on here somewhere

StormRune

I did the same fuse-tap approach as VS1. It has four advantages in my opinion.

1. I prefer not to splice into existing wiring harnesses when not necessary. VS1's solution can be undone with no trace and no risk of the splicing device cutting through a harness wire.
2. There is a convenient grounding point near the fuse box. (see below)
3. There is no need to remove the trim around the lighting, lessening the chance of trim breakage or introduction of rattles.
4. He needed to run the wire down below the console for the remote display in any case.

The time required is probably about the same for both ways. My post that is similar to VS1's that includes mention of the grounding point is here: https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...etector.html#9

Wayne Smith

Or ...

Use the V1 OBD II interface which includes the adjustable low speed lockout. Everything is plug in and turns on and off with the ignition.

I ran the main cable through spiral wrap (so that it would not pop out of the headliner), down the A pillar, and within the dash.

The remote display is attached over my right knee so no one else can see it and the sun doesn't cause blocking problems. I used double sided velcro tape. That cable plugs into the OBD II adaptor and is easy to hide.