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So, recently my A/C stopped working when I was in traffic and the cabin filled up with a white smokey cloud, got home and I can hear the high pressure valve fizzing from near the windshield cowel.
2 weeks later:
1. We diagnosed the compressor failed - Replaced the compressor.. it still wasn't running properly.
2. Hooked up the computer to it, realized the fans weren't running properly (left fan would barely spin / right fan would run for about 60 secs and shut off), took off the bumper and there were ROCKS wedged all up in the motors for the fans (damaged)
3. Replaced both fans and still the A/C wouldn't work correctly (After driving the car for about 15mins and come to a stop, the A/C will get hot again)
4. Hoooked up the computer to it again and we have these codes (C131 & C141 in multiple places) Air - Stability - Instrument Cluster - POSIP
My 1st thought was the battery. When the engine if off its reading 12.3 amps.
I do have an aftermarket radio that was installed like 7 years ago, maybe there is a connection issue there?
I'm open to any other insights you guys may have, maybe went through something similar.
I can hear the high pressure valve fizzing from near the windshield cowel.
3. Replaced both fans and still the A/C wouldn't work correctly (After driving the car for about 15mins and come to a stop, the A/C will get hot again)
4. Hoooked up the computer to it again and we have these codes (C131 & C141 in multiple places) Air - Stability - Instrument Cluster - POSIP
My 1st thought was the battery. When the engine if off its reading 12.3 amps.
I do have an aftermarket radio that was installed like 7 years ago, maybe there is a connection issue there?
Fizzing - did you get this leak fixed?
When you came to the stop and AC became warm - did you hear one or both of the AC fans comes on? Can you force them to come on with a Durametric?
Error codes - was the car running or just Key On?
12.3V is a little low. Lowest value of the normal range (post to post) is maybe about 12.6V.
I don't think the aftermarket radio is part of your AC problem.
Did they also replace the AC drier at the same time as the AC compressor?
After the compressor replacement, did they test/review the system in different conditions (lower temp, lower humidity) compared to when you experienced it not working on the road? (Hopefully they filled the system by weight.)
What was the failure mechanism of the compressor? Did it flood the system with shrapnel/debris? If so, was the whole system properly flushed?
What's the voltage when the car is running? After you drive a bit where the AC would shut off when dropping to idle, what's the voltage then? What happens if instead of sitting at idle, you hold the gas at 1200 or 1500 rpm - does it stay running then and what's the voltage in that situation?
Fizzing - did you get this leak fixed?
Yes this was fixed
When you came to the stop and AC became warm - did you hear one or both of the AC fans comes on? Can you force them to come on with a Durametric?
They didn't come on when the car came to a stop. One of the fans didn't come on at all and the other came on and stopped after 60 secs. Both have been replaced and come on perfectly now BUT the A/C goes hot after driving for about 15 mins (maybe I need to check the A/C switch to see if if that is functioning properly)
Error codes - was the car running or just Key On?
Just the Key On position.. car not running.
12.3V is a little low. Lowest value of the normal range (post to post) is maybe about 12.6V.
Ok, we'll check voltage when running today.
I don't think the aftermarket radio is part of your AC problem.
Ok, I hope not.
Did they also replace the AC drier at the same time as the AC compressor?
Yes the drier was also replaced.
After the compressor replacement, did they test/review the system in different conditions (lower temp, lower humidity) compared to when you experienced it not working on the road? (Hopefully they filled the system by weight.)
Yes the systems tested for lower temperature, humitdy compared to driving conditions. Yes. it was filled by weight.
What was the failure mechanism of the compressor? Did it flood the system with shrapnel/debris? If so, was the whole system properly flushed?
No, we haven't flushed the system. We will try this today!
Originally Posted by Petza914
What's the voltage when the car is running? After you drive a bit where the AC would shut off when dropping to idle, what's the voltage then? What happens if instead of sitting at idle, you hold the gas at 1200 or 1500 rpm - does it stay running then and what's the voltage in that situation?
Checking car voltage when running today. The A/C stops working WHILE driving, that's the odd part (after about 15 mins) No its no longer working while driving OR at idle.
No, we haven't flushed the system. We will try this today!
Checking car voltage when running today. The A/C stops working WHILE driving, that's the odd part (after about 15 mins) No its no longer working while driving OR at idle.
If you ran the new compressor on a debris laden system you are at serious risk of having damaged the new compressor.
There is a low pressure limit switch on the AC system in the engine compartment (I believe) (I had to have mine replaced). If it fails with a false low the compressor clutch won't engage.
A/C keeps shutting off after about 15 mins
