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I would love to do that, but the garage sits in the midst of a hill and the water pressures would bubble any floor coating during our winter wet season. I dug deep on the sides to install a French drain but still get floor moisture after a long rain. I've debated interlocking tiles but haven't seen anything of that nature that wouldn't conflict with swinging the lift arms. I'm open to ideas.
I would love to do that, but the garage sits in the midst of a hill and the water pressures would bubble any floor coating during our winter wet season. I dug deep on the sides to install a French drain but still get floor moisture after a long rain. I've debated interlocking tiles but haven't seen anything of that nature that wouldn't conflict with swinging the lift arms. I'm open to ideas.
Polish the concrete and put a clear sealer over it with Sharkgrip in it (makes it non slippery). Will look like the bottom of a riverbed and is beautiful. Wish that's what I had done in my garage that has the flecked epoxy floor as the tires lift it and it's really hard to find dropped washers because of the flecks.
Floor was professionally ground and epoxied. Had lifting issues. Emptied the whole garage and they ground it deeper and used an acid wash. Lasted twice as long - lifted again where the tires sit. I won't do another epoxy floor and will polish the concrete instead when I do my dream 6 car garage next door (unlikely that will ever happen but do own the property).
If doing a new floor and know it's going to be polished you have the concrete guys add in larger rocks and some different ones to the mix, then when you polish them out it looks even better. Would be super cool to construct a Porsche Crest from stones that would come out when polished - hmmmm.
That is a nice floor, but I think they call that torrazzo. Torrazzo has amazing wear properties... just unbelievable actually. It is used all the time for commercial applications like for shopping malls and commercial building flooring. I don't know why it is not a common flooring in homes like garages. Hmmmm https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Terrazzo
We did our garage in that new stuff polyasporatic. Had it now well over one year and there are no visible issues... looks just as shiny as new. I wash it when I wash our cars... I spritz Simple Green all over it... very fast like... then take a bucket of water and sploosh it all over. Then I use a very large floor squeegie thing I picked up at Home Depot.... done. Very fast, very easy to clean.
Peace
Bruce in Philly (now Atlanta)
Last edited by Bruce In Philly; 08-30-2024 at 02:33 PM.
Pete ... Back before I retired we epoxied the floors in the office work area (where we staged or rebuilt machinery). Had all the same problems you discuss. I won't use epoxy again.
Get to work on that garage. I want to see pictures I can lust over!!!
FWIW ... I built a 3200 square foot shop for (with) a friend (in his backyard). He opted to go polished concrete. One section was going to be walled off so he used different rock for a greenish color and to create a terrazzo effect. It can still breathe and be beautiful at the same time.
Note ... After pouring the slab and cutting the stress lines we flooded it with water for three months to slow the cure rate and to insure maximum strength.
Last edited by Wayne Smith; 08-30-2024 at 02:36 PM.
We did our garage in that new stuff polyasporatic. Had it now well over one year and there are no visible issues... looks just as shiny as new. I wash it when I wash our cars... I spritz Simple Green all over it... very fast like... then take a bucket of water and sploosh it all over. Then I use a very large floor squeegie thing I picked up at Home Depot.... done. Very fast, very easy to clean.
When we built our new home in the Nashville area three years ago, we also used polyaspartic resin on our garage floor. Not only do we store two Porsches (which I do some work on occasionally), but I also have a very nice woodshop which rolls into place in a minute or two and can do pretty much anything. I am careful about dragging 80# sheets of MDF over it (I use one of my heavy packing blankets under them) or leaving puddles of lacquer thinner (which can soften the resin), but all else goes. Our friends tease us about being OCD and how we should host all our dinners and game nights in our garage, but it is truly easy to keep clean which is important as it is the studio background for photos in magazine articles I write.
I spot vacuum it after every use and vacuum it entirely about once a month to get rid of residual sawdust and tracked-in grass clippings. I even have an old Roomba to get under things and into the corners. I dry-mop it with Simple Green once or twice a year, mostly to remove the dirt marks where the tires rest. The finish doesn't lift under tires like epoxy does. My only real complaint is locating dropped bolts, washers, and nuts, but a magnetic sweep helps a lot. Just don't drop a small black or gray plastic part!
P.S., we also put in a mini-split to make it comfortable to work in year-round.
Looks like the wheel bearings have a magnetized end/side to support the ABS function? Are they marked as to which end is "special" or do you have to use the special tool.
Looks like the wheel bearings have a magnetized end/side to support the ABS function? Are they marked as to which end is "special" or do you have to use the special tool.
Someday I will be replacing all of my suspension wheel bearing stuff and look forward to using your excellent DIY.
Yes, the bearings have a magnetic ring on one side... it is brown. The magnetic ring is called a reluctor ring. The other, the ring is rubber red. You don't need a tool... When I did my rear bearings... the first time I tackled bearings... I was hyper worried about that but all you need to do is take a thin piece of metal and touch it... it sticks. Duh. I think I read at the time to be very careful to keep metal away from the ring but I didn't and it works fine. Heck, the bearings come wrapped in a thin piece of celephone plastic in a super cheapo-thin box that does not isolate the bearing. I can't believe this protects the magnetic material from metal given shipping and storage throughout the chain. The orientation of the bearing is to put the magnetic side in first.... again, this is moronic simple as the sensor is on the inside of the carrier. This is all pretty idiot proof. The only thing you need to know is that there is a magnetic side for the speed sensor... then you need a few firing neurons and you will be fine.
It may support the ABS function, but it definitly provides a role in stability management... applying a single brake to a wheel that is spinning faster than others (I am sure there is a complex algorithm going on).
08-30-2024, 02:21 AM
