Finishing up installing this shock spring combo (along with a bunch of other items). There are no instructions on how far to tight, or screw down, the center shock and strut nuts on the top. Essentially it looks as if I could keep tightening until it runs out of threads on the shaft. Same with stock shocks/struts too, so I guess this is a universal (and maybe basic) question about these nuts.

Any guidance is appreciated.

Thanks

 

Without a photo, hard to be completely sure what you're talking about, but if the center top nut that threads onto the shock cartridge above the top plate, all the way and to the torque in the manual. If not threaded all the way, as the suspension moves it will slide up and down and destroy the threads below. You also have to keep the shock from turning as you tighten by using the proper tool to hold the center as you tighten the nut - a normal docked wont work and don't use vice grips on the shock piston as any scratch will destroy the seal when the shock travels.

 

If you’re talking about the nut that has the wire running through it for PASM, That nut should be tightened all the way down. But not very tight. I can’t remember the torque setting but it is about the same as for a spark plug. 20-30 lbs-ft.

This nut tightens the top of the shock to the strut mount bushing. The bushing is rubber isolated from the chassis and is the component with the three integrated bolts that secure to the chassis at the fender.

 

Thanks for the responses, I did confirm to tighten all the way down as suggested.

i got 3 of 4 tightened down. The passenger rear shock piston is turning with the nut. It basically spun out of the grove in the shock mount bushing (I’m using Poweflex bushings). Any thoughts on how to secure the piston from spinning? Once I noticed it spinning I stopped tightening the nut (spun about half a turn).

 

Get a socket set where the gear teeth are on the outside and the hole in the middle is open, like a Craftsman Max Axess or similar. The shock piston should have an Allen or torx in the center and with this type of socket set you can tighten the nut while you hold the shock rod from turning.

 

the Bilstein B8s (part of B12 kit) do not have an Allen key hole on the top of the shock piston. Fronts do and I got the special Schwaben strut nut sockets that allow access for such a manuever as you describe.

 

If they don't have that, don't they have a keyed side where the top mount has the mate for the key so when they fit together you can tighten them without the piston turning.