Little oil fouling on #4, otherwise, nothing too bad there. A couple look like they're running in the lean side. I'd run a full bottle of Redline Fuel System cleaner in your next half tank of gas and a second full bottle in the next full tank after that. Might clean up your injector spray patterns a bit.

 

or… just use a slight dab of anti seize on the threads and reuse them. Otherwise a waste on money. I’ve been doing this for decades, including with all of my Porsches. Just don’t let the material get below the threads.

 

According to Jake Raby, anti-sieze can effect the plugs ability to ground to the block and shouldn't be used. He says to use a little motor oil or milk of Magnesia (yes, seriously). He told me anti-seize on my 914 plugs is what caused the carbon button in the distributor cap and rotor contact to burn up. I've not used it on plugs since and use more oil - no issue getting them out 30k miles later.

 

50 some years ago we seldom used torque wrenches. Heads were iron, not aluminum. We were taught to tighten by feel.

But I've come to depend on torque wrenches for even the mundane. The problem for me is that if you change the coefficient of friction by adding modifying agents, how do you adjust the torque to compensate?

IMHO the cost of a new plug pales in comparison to a stripped head. That's me. I'll admit my bias. I generally don't pull plugs to inspect them. I did that to clean plugs on snowmobiles in the middle of nowhere if they fouled, but I was a youngster then!!!!

 

Get new plugs, they are fairly inexpensive compared to other replacement parts! Inspect the coil packs for any cracks also.

Trying to be extra thrifty with these cars can bite you in the ***.