To warm up or just drive and go??
#1
To warm up or just drive and go??
Good day all.... so many great people with insightful responses on this forum! Last summer I acquired a 2011 997.2 base, 6MT, with 38K miles. I’ve since driven it about 1500 miles. I’ve heard/read different answers on this topic but I wanted to get more direct input. Is it better to let these cars warm up for a minute? 2 minutes? Before being driven? Seems as if most are in the camp of just drive it but keep RPM’s 3K or under until oil warms to 160-170. My other 911’s have been 991/992’s and I currently also have a 23’ C4GTS with PDK..... With the later models when new, I was told just drive it like you stole it with no worries. I live in central Florida so the temps are mild in the winter but if it sit’s for 4-5 days before I can drive it again I just want to make sure I’m caring for it properly. All responses appreciated!
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Eugene Soldak (01-24-2024)
#2
"With the later models when new, I was told just drive it like you stole it with no worries." - never ever do that to your engine. You need to drive them nicely until everything (oil andcoolant) goes to temp before drive them like you stole it. You can google oil viscosity Vs. temperature.
Several manufacturers actually lower their engine redline when engine is cold. Typical recommendation is to drive it immediately after cold start but keep rpm below 3000-3500rpm until coolant/oil reaches their normal temperature.
Driving actually raises temperature faster and more evenly, faster warm up = lower emission.
Several manufacturers actually lower their engine redline when engine is cold. Typical recommendation is to drive it immediately after cold start but keep rpm below 3000-3500rpm until coolant/oil reaches their normal temperature.
Driving actually raises temperature faster and more evenly, faster warm up = lower emission.
Last edited by laphan; 01-23-2024 at 02:50 PM.
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BRN9121 (01-24-2024)
#4
In the owner's manual, it says, turn on, and drive away but to keep the revs down until the oil and etc. are up to temp. I am paraphrasing but that is how I remember it. At the track, a lot of the NASA instructors told me to just rip it right away but I didn't listen to them and would keep it chill until the car was warm (i.e. not shifting above like 4k or so and etc.). Also, they have warm up laps, so what is the point of just "letting it rip" before you are up to temp? I know this is the case with street tires but people will argue that oil tech is similar and that you can just drive right away as you would if the car was warm. IDK about that. I start the car, slowly back out of my driveway and drive away shifting below 4k but not lugging the motor (e.g. some people say they shift at 3k or below but I feel I am lugging the 3.8 a bit when I do this, so I tend to shift between 3500-4k. As a side note, with a turbo car, I just tried to stay out of boost until the car was warm). Once the oil is at 200, I let it rip if I want. It usually takes 10 minutes or so depending on weather. This is pretty much in line with what Porsche recommends.
#5
The 997.2 uses the 9A1 motor. While virtually bulletproof, it can be subject to cold seizure if pushed too hard before all metal parts are warm and have expanded such that the motor is ready to crank.
Idling is illegal in Germany. Idling, in general, is bad. This is especially the case when cold, while the ECU is supplying a rich mixture to help heat the cats. With the 9A1's direct fuel injection, this can wash the cylinder walls and create scoring. Don't do it!!!
Start the motor and drive off. The high idle meant to prevent motor stalling doesn't matter if you are driving and above that high idle anyway. Just drive. But remember that the motor isn't warm and the clearances aren't correct. So keep the revs between 2 and 3K with nominal throttle. It will take ten minutes for the oil to warm up (ignore the water temp). I generally give it another 5 minutes for the motor (metal) components to stabilize. It's worked for my 155K miles, and I remain all original with a 5K mile oil change interval ... I've yet to burn any oil, and all indications are the motor remains like new.
Idling is illegal in Germany. Idling, in general, is bad. This is especially the case when cold, while the ECU is supplying a rich mixture to help heat the cats. With the 9A1's direct fuel injection, this can wash the cylinder walls and create scoring. Don't do it!!!
Start the motor and drive off. The high idle meant to prevent motor stalling doesn't matter if you are driving and above that high idle anyway. Just drive. But remember that the motor isn't warm and the clearances aren't correct. So keep the revs between 2 and 3K with nominal throttle. It will take ten minutes for the oil to warm up (ignore the water temp). I generally give it another 5 minutes for the motor (metal) components to stabilize. It's worked for my 155K miles, and I remain all original with a 5K mile oil change interval ... I've yet to burn any oil, and all indications are the motor remains like new.
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#6
#8
Yep, it's illegal and a heavy fine to let a car idle in Germany. That's why the owners manual states to "Drive Immediately".
In the U.S, it goes as follows.
-Get in your car
-Turn the key to the On position
-Check your oil level
-Start your car
-Put on seat belt, turn on your radio, check your mirrors, turn on PASM and PSE and Sport mode etc
-Wait for the fuel enrichment stage idle to drop
-Reverse out of your garage or driveway
-Drive with RPM's under 3K until the oil reaches temps
-Italian tune up
https://www.ramstein.af.mil/News/Art...idle-your-car/
https://www.stuttgartcitizen.com/ann...ar-is-a-no-no/
In the U.S, it goes as follows.
-Get in your car
-Turn the key to the On position
-Check your oil level
-Start your car
-Put on seat belt, turn on your radio, check your mirrors, turn on PASM and PSE and Sport mode etc
-Wait for the fuel enrichment stage idle to drop
-Reverse out of your garage or driveway
-Drive with RPM's under 3K until the oil reaches temps
-Italian tune up
https://www.ramstein.af.mil/News/Art...idle-your-car/
https://www.stuttgartcitizen.com/ann...ar-is-a-no-no/
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#11
#13
Hey! When it's chilly out, giving your car about 30 seconds to a minute to warm up before hitting the road is usually good. If it's freezing, an extra couple of minutes won't hurt. Just take it easy on the gas pedal initially until your engine warms up. And, of course, it's better to peek into your car's manual for any specific tips. Safe driving!
#15
You should not do this. On the one hand, the enrichment of gas ("choke") is intended to achieve a better cold start and faster warming of the catalytic converter. On the other hand, the injected fuel condenses on the cold cylinder walls and causes fuel to enter the oil, which in turn has a negative effect on its viscosity. Wait a few seconds after starting until the oil pressure has stabilized and start off at low revs and never under-rev. Like you would drive a bike with cold muscles.
You stated that you had a 997.2. This has direct fuel injection. It also is a closed block design. And the cylinder coating is different. And more. The rules are different for this motor compared to the M9X motors in the first generation 997. Simply put, confusion exists between 997.1 owners and the needs of the 997.2. Thus the differences in advice. Back to your car ...
There is absolutely no advantage to allowing DFI motors to idle while running rich to warm the cats. Driving uses the extra fuel used to heat the cats with less washing of the cylinder walls.
If you had a 997.1 without DFI, then it wouldn't matter (as much ... it does matter). But, as stated above, the 997.2 is a different motor with different rules. Start it and drive gently until the motor oil is hot, period.