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It could actually be a defective pressure relief valve in the filter housing, but I doubt it. So replace the filter and housing at the next oil change. To be on the safe side, I would do this immediately and then add 400ml.
On page 78 of my manual it says that the oil pressure should be at least 3.5 bar with warm oil (80°C+) and 5,000 rpm (997 Mk1).
I mean it is around 3.5 bar at 5000 rpm for sure. The idle one doesn’t look the greatest tbh. Idk if there is a rule regarding this
It could actually be a defective pressure relief valve in the filter housing, but I doubt it. So replace the filter and housing at the next oil change. To be on the safe side, I would do this immediately and then add 400ml. Edit: The only issue with a defective valve is partly unfiltered oil, not a problem with the pressure itself.
On page 78 of my manual it says that the oil pressure should be at least 3.5 bar with warm oil (80°C+) and 5,000 rpm (997 Mk1).
You don't need to wait until the next oil change to swap the canister and bypass spring - only what's in the filter canister will come out, not all the engine in the oill. This is just one reason why the metal canister spin on filter adapter from LN Engineering is better - you get a new filter bypass spring with every oil change, so it doesn't get week and allow any oil to bypass the filter, which is what happens when the original spring in the plastic canister gets reused time and time again.
Between the OP living in the middle east, oil having 8k km and the weight being 0w40 I'd say this makes sense. 0w40 is known to thinning out to 30 grade. Put that with the higher temps that the car saw being used in a very hot environment the oil is pretty much at the end of its life. I'd suggest using a 50 weight oil.
I also have a somewhat "restless" idle, many have that, no need to worry. Imho.
Idle should be very stable - if it's not, you likely have a crack in one of the corrugated AOS hoses, the flexible oil filler neck hose, or the throttle body and throttle body plate need cleaning. You can clean it in place, but it's much easier and you can do a more thorough job by unplugging the electrical connector and then removing the 4 screws and the assembly comes right off where you can then get good access to both sides of the plate and the housing, without having to spray a lot of carb cleaner into the intake.
It could actually be a defective pressure relief valve in the filter housing, but I doubt it. So replace the filter and housing at the next oil change. To be on the safe side, I would do this immediately and then add 400ml. Edit: The only issue with a defective valve is partly unfiltered oil, not a problem with the pressure itself.
On page 78 of my manual it says that the oil pressure should be at least 3.5 bar with warm oil (80°C+) and 5,000 rpm (997 Mk1).
try one more thing. replace the oil pressure relief valve and spring located on the oil pump housing. knowing my oil pressure switch was newer, stiff was showing lower oil pressure at cold start, as well as normal driving. Replace these small bits and pressure was reading normal again.
for $23 in total cost, def worth a try. And these are the updated parts. My car is a 2006 c2s. The old piston / valve was flat on top and was machining itself. to very sharp edge. The new piston has a beveled edge.
You don't need to wait until the next oil change to swap the canister and bypass spring - only what's in the filter canister will come out, not all the engine in the oill. This is just one reason why the metal canister spin on filter adapter from LN Engineering is better - you get a new filter bypass spring with every oil change, so it doesn't get week and allow any oil to bypass the filter, which is what happens when the original spring in the plastic canister gets reused time and time again.
Are you referring to this spring or there's another one (which I didn't knew of until now)? Do you have a picture?
Thanks. Had I known about that housing valve I would've changed it when changing the oil before storing the car. Luckily I have a new oil filter housing that I was planning to use for my next oil change next Fall. I guess I should just change the housing now while the car is stored? Can I leave the filter (brand new) and pour the oil from the old housing back into the filler tube?
Thanks. Had I known about that housing valve I would've changed it when changing the oil before storing the car. Luckily I have a new oil filter housing that I was planning to use for my next oil change next Fall. I guess I should just change the housing now while the car is stored? Can I leave the filter (brand new) and pour the oil from the old housing back into the filler tube?
I would keep the filter as well but would not use the old oil, top up with fresh oil (you should have some left ;-)). I fill my oil filter housing with filter before every restart after an oil change. It sucks exactly 400ml of oil, the filter takes an incredible amount. Helps to get a quicker oil pressure.
I would keep the filter as well but would not use the old oil, top up with fresh oil (you should have some left ;-)). I fill my oil filter housing with filter before every restart after an oil change. It sucks exactly 400ml of oil, the filter takes an incredible amount. Helps to get a quicker oil pressure.
Thanks! The oil has less than 50Kms and was changed 2 months ago. Car has been stored since.
Thanks! The oil has less than 50Kms and was changed 2 months ago. Car has been stored since.
I see no issue with reusing the oil. When I did a bunch of work on one of my 997s recently, the oil had only a couple hundred miles on it. I drained all the oil into a brand new and clean 5 gallon bucket and poured it back in when I was done. The oil in the filter is the same oil that's in the engine - it's fine to pour it back in.
Between the OP living in the middle east, oil having 8k km and the weight being 0w40 I'd say this makes sense. 0w40 is known to thinning out to 30 grade. Put that with the higher temps that the car saw being used in a very hot environment the oil is pretty much at the end of its life. I'd suggest using a 50 weight oil.
I live in the middle east and use similar oil and change every year (every 2500 miles), my oil pressure is always at 5 on cold start.
I have never seen it fall below 3.
I live in the middle east and use similar oil and change every year (every 2500 miles), my oil pressure is always at 5 on cold start.
I have never seen it fall below 3.
Not even when hot, at idle? If that's the case, your oil pressure sender isn't accurate anymore. Even with 50w oil it won't read above 3 at idle when oil temp is over 200 F.
What does your gauge show first thing in the morning when you cycle the key to the full accessory position without starting the engine? I'm guessing it shows 1 to 1.5 bar which translates to all your reading being artificially high by that same amount.
01-04-2024, 10:53 AM
