Strut Mount Question - AWD Cars
11-01-2023, 05:24 PM
#1
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Strut Mount Question - AWD Cars
Hello experts! I will soon be replacing worn front strut mounts and am a little bit intimidated by the job. I currently have Bilstein B16 coilovers, but apparently the front mounts were not replaced when I had the suspension installed.
I have a 997.1 C4 and while replacing the mounts looks straightforward on the non-AWD cars, I seem to encounter a mix of opinions regarding getting the top of the struts out of the car on AWD 997s. Some people suggest that removing the axle nut and the axle from the wheel carrier is necessary to get enough movement to access the top of the strut. Other videos seem to show AWD cars where removing the strut was pretty easy and didn't require removing the axle nut.
Before I go out and buy a giant breaker bar, socket and torque wrench to address the axle nut, I have a few questions:
1. Does anyone else have an AWD car and have replaced their front struts/mounts without touching the axle nut?
2. Since I have slightly lowered suspension, I'm thinking maybe the top of the strut will be a little lower than stock and perhaps I don't need the extra play in the suspension to access?
3. Do I need to compress the springs before removing the strut mount from the top of the coilover, or are the springs already fully extended when I access the top of the strut? I'm a bit nervous about having built up kinetic energy up there...
4. If I do have to remove the axle nut, is there any "while you're in there" preventative maintenance I should be doing on a ~100,000mi car? Wheel bearing, perhaps? I have already replaced control arms, tie rods and CV joints.
Thanks in advance!
I have a 997.1 C4 and while replacing the mounts looks straightforward on the non-AWD cars, I seem to encounter a mix of opinions regarding getting the top of the struts out of the car on AWD 997s. Some people suggest that removing the axle nut and the axle from the wheel carrier is necessary to get enough movement to access the top of the strut. Other videos seem to show AWD cars where removing the strut was pretty easy and didn't require removing the axle nut.
Before I go out and buy a giant breaker bar, socket and torque wrench to address the axle nut, I have a few questions:
1. Does anyone else have an AWD car and have replaced their front struts/mounts without touching the axle nut?
2. Since I have slightly lowered suspension, I'm thinking maybe the top of the strut will be a little lower than stock and perhaps I don't need the extra play in the suspension to access?
3. Do I need to compress the springs before removing the strut mount from the top of the coilover, or are the springs already fully extended when I access the top of the strut? I'm a bit nervous about having built up kinetic energy up there...
4. If I do have to remove the axle nut, is there any "while you're in there" preventative maintenance I should be doing on a ~100,000mi car? Wheel bearing, perhaps? I have already replaced control arms, tie rods and CV joints.
Thanks in advance!
11-01-2023, 06:19 PM
#2
From what I have read (I did not do the job yet...), 3) must be done: you need to compress the spring before being able to remove the strut.
Now, with your coilover B16, it could be another story.
Regarding 4), if you have replaced the CV joints, it is already a good thing.
Yves
Now, with your coilover B16, it could be another story.
Regarding 4), if you have replaced the CV joints, it is already a good thing.
Yves
11-02-2023, 12:32 PM
#3
Racer
@timc114 I too have a 997.1 C4 and I've done the replacement of nearly every part of the front suspension save the steering rack. I'll address your items in order:
1. The axle nut does not have to come off in order to gain enough articulation. The long bolt on the inboard side of the lower control arm will need to be loosened but not removed.
2. Depending on the way the B16s are set up you might have a bit more wiggle room, you'll know when you get in there.
3. The springs must be compressed. This is a step that can't be skipped but with quality spring compressors it's a straightforward and safe task.
4. If you do remove the axle nuts they must be replaced when you re-install. Aside from the work you've already done you might take a look at your front drop links and sway bar. Check for any damage/wear at the mounting points and if you see any cracks on the joints the drop links should be replaced. Wheel bearings are tricky because they require a heavy press to be removed from the wheel carrier. If you're not already hearing the telltale thrumming of a bad wheel bearing you can check for failure with the car in the air and the wheels still mounted - grab the tires and 3 and 9 o'clock and try to rock the wheel side-to-side. Do the same at 12 and 6 o'clock and if you find any play its time for new bearings. Lowered cars can wear these quicker so inspect carefully.
When you get the spring compressors on and the top mounts removed from the car be sure to put a shop towel on the strut studs as well as draping something protective on your fender arch/paintwork. When the strut clears the car coming out (and going back in) be mindful of these sharp edges.
Take your time, photograph everything, make note of proper torque values, and have a cold beverage ready when you wrap up. Let us know how it goes when you're finished!
1. The axle nut does not have to come off in order to gain enough articulation. The long bolt on the inboard side of the lower control arm will need to be loosened but not removed.
2. Depending on the way the B16s are set up you might have a bit more wiggle room, you'll know when you get in there.
3. The springs must be compressed. This is a step that can't be skipped but with quality spring compressors it's a straightforward and safe task.
4. If you do remove the axle nuts they must be replaced when you re-install. Aside from the work you've already done you might take a look at your front drop links and sway bar. Check for any damage/wear at the mounting points and if you see any cracks on the joints the drop links should be replaced. Wheel bearings are tricky because they require a heavy press to be removed from the wheel carrier. If you're not already hearing the telltale thrumming of a bad wheel bearing you can check for failure with the car in the air and the wheels still mounted - grab the tires and 3 and 9 o'clock and try to rock the wheel side-to-side. Do the same at 12 and 6 o'clock and if you find any play its time for new bearings. Lowered cars can wear these quicker so inspect carefully.
When you get the spring compressors on and the top mounts removed from the car be sure to put a shop towel on the strut studs as well as draping something protective on your fender arch/paintwork. When the strut clears the car coming out (and going back in) be mindful of these sharp edges.
Take your time, photograph everything, make note of proper torque values, and have a cold beverage ready when you wrap up. Let us know how it goes when you're finished!
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yvesvidal (11-02-2023)
11-04-2023, 03:07 PM
#5
If you turn the spring perch down some on the coilovers then you might not need a spring compressor. This is will relieve the spring tension or pressure.
