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I have totally rebuilt my motor and it was blown. Hartech bore with new cylinders and pistons, rebuilt heads, polished and checked crank & cams, IMS bearing, Rods,+++From LN, and too many parts ton talk about from Pelican, FCP Euro, Vertex and Porsche. I started with 38 error codes and now done to a few. Just got rid of my misfire codes and P0021 (cam adjustor solenoid) when i replaced my bank 2 Cam adjuster. Engine seems to run smoothly but my Cam deviation for Bank 2 is off at between -3.6 to 4.0 vs Bank 1 at 0.0. I have been told that i might have made a mistake with my Cam timing, which is certainly possible but really don't want to drop the engine again. I am trying to determine if the -3.6 to -4.0 is an acceptable deviation?
I should mention that i have all new coils, MAF, O2 (before Cat) sensors and fuel injectors, chains, rails/guides, lifters and all new sensors.
In one of Jack Raby's (maybe Members only) videos on his Youtube Rennlist channel he says the max allowable cam deviation is 6* as per factory spec but his recommendation is 4*.
In one of Jack Raby's (maybe Members only) videos on his Youtube Rennlist channel he says the max allowable cam deviation is 6* as per factory spec but his recommendation is 4*.
That is pretty much correct. IMHO 4+ is when you start thinking about it and 5-6 degrees is where you pull the trigger and do it. Do note though that some engines will have high-ish deviations on one or both banks that can stay around the same value for a long time (not increase). Obviously changing your oil more frequently and with the highest quality oil will help prevent chain "stretch". These port injected engines can stretch chains but it's not that common...
That is pretty much correct. IMHO 4+ is when you start thinking about it and 5-6 degrees is where you pull the trigger and do it. Do note though that some engines will have high-ish deviations on one or both banks that can stay around the same value for a long time (not increase). Obviously changing your oil more frequently and with the highest quality oil will help prevent chain "stretch". These port injected engines can stretch chains but it's not that common...
Thanks for confirming. still not really comfortable with Bank 2 having a deviation of -4 or just under so will be looking to address in the winter when car is off the road. any comments as to what causes the deviation? could it actually just be the Cam timing being off on that bank? I replaced all the chains, rails and lifters and the Cam where checked and polished....are there any other causes for the deviation? My cam deviation on Bank 1 is perfect at 0. Bank 2 is actually where my engine failed in cly 5.
I would monitor it and make sure it's not creeping into high deviation. If it does keep getting higher, then time to do something about it. Could just instead stay at the same measurement for a very long time.
Since you replaced all the chains, tensioners, rails etc hopefully with OE parts it should not be hardware like a stretched chain. Sometimes even on a new timing job there is some deviation. For example I replaced the timing chain on my Audi Q5 2.0T a couple of years ago and followed the factory procedure (you can download it off erWin for $35 unlike Porsche) with all OE parts. After the job was finished I was initially disappointed that the deviation was over 2 degrees because I was expecting or wanting it to be close to 0 like I have seen other able to achieve. But that was 50K miles ago and the measurement hasn't moved so I don't really care because I don't think I will ever need to do it again on that engine even with the deviation. It's a different engine but it's the exact same technology of using a vane-cell camshaft adjuster (Audi just calls it a "phaser"). So in summary I would not worry unless you start to see that value go higher. I guess it's always possible there is an issue with the camshaft -- for example I have seen where the lock-pin hole is enlarged due to long OCIs and/or poor quality oil and causes some deviation.
Same situation, but my cam deviations are less than 0.2.
Either one of your sensors is bad or you miss timed it. Live with it or redo it.
weird but swapped sensors and actually replaced the timing one for BK2. Have really not driven the car very far and ended up getting the the P0021 error code again with a new actuator. I actually tested all 4 solenoids before reinstalling them. I still need to check my timing but would you know if your timing is slightly off , would that give me a P0021 error code? i was thinking if not the timing there must be some wiring issue.
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