markus7062

Totally rebuilt motor after catastrophic engine failure (Hartech block redo, jake Raby step by step rebuild DIY) . Car is running well in the very early stages of being broken in (approx. 1,500 miles so far). At start tons of different error codes (Durametric) which i have been dealing with one by one. Replacing parts as i go along trying to rule out all the obvious. Have recently replaced the following, o2 before Cat sensors, MAF, Fuel injectors, Air filter, ignition coils. I had my ECU/DME tested by the ECU doctor in Florida...no issues. I am still getting the following error codes reappearing(started with 36 different error codes....now down to these 7):

PO300, P0301, P0021
-? Possible my Cam timing is slightly off, or maybe have a bad Cat? - I believe i can adjust the CAM slightly +/- 7 degrees with my Durametric? How otherwise can i adjust the CAM timing (i don't believe i made a mistake when rebuilding the engine but possible)? Solutions??

Gateway
8007
Gateway incorrect Coding
-? Possible that the Gateway Module is defective-How do i test it?

Porsche Access System-PAS
8050- Electronic steering column lock internal fault
-?No idea- Related to 8007?AirBag-POSIP
C152 -Communication PSM control unit(Drive)
-? no idea what would cause this?

Seat Memory
C102- CAN single-wire operation "comfort"
-? no idea?

Any suggestions would be great. Thanks
Mark

r_towle

P0300 thru 303 etc
ignition misfiring, try new plugs
check coils, replace as needed
swap coils and plugs to different cylinders, see if code follows the hardware

r_towle

The remaining codes are regarding seats, airbags, wiring at steering column.

so, what else was changed from factory?
did airbags get set off?

markus7062

engine is a total rebuild, new everything. Just replaced all the coils....i guess it is possible to have a defective sparkplug but unlikely. Everything factory, although I did remove the steering column to remove the steering lock and immobilizer when i sent my ECU to get tested. I checked my notes and i had the same codes before i removed the steering column...and never an issue before the engine failed.
My guess is still cam timing and failed gateway module.

Bruce In Philly

2009 C2S 190K miles

Did you try resetting all codes, and then resetting each of the modules? Resetting the main ECU?

Peace
Bruce in Philly (now Atlanta)

markus7062

yes and yes unfortunately.

SlakkerRacingDev

First thing I would do is pin it at TDC, pull the caps and check the cam timing. Rotate 360 and check the other bank. Make sure to never rotate counter clockwise. If you go slightly past, keep rotating clockwise until you get it. Normally it would run rough if slightly out of time but I would check anyways.

Did you replace the diamond washers on the variocam actuators?
Where did you purchase the fuel injectors from (lots of fake bosch injectors on amazon)?
What was your break in procedure?

- Pull the plugs and document what they look like for each cylinder.
- Also use your bore scope to see what the piston crowns look like while they are out. You will may see some marks are the cylinder wall where the rings set, in depending on your procedures, but the nikasil is really hard and they will only be superficial.

Is the gateway module and PAS/steering lock/ECU original with the car?
Have you attempted to change the coding on any of them?
You can buy a cheap gateway on ebay and swap it to check but it looks to be functioning.

Steering lock to PAS is only 3 wires and not part of CAN comfort. Normally this error occurs after removing the steering lock. If I'm removing them, it's for a track car, so I'm not sure what it's supposed to look like when you put them back in.

If any of the errors were serious, you wouldn't be able to start the car.

If you have an oscilloscope, email me a brandon@sr.dev and I can send you the P-car doc for troubleshooting Canbus issues.

markus7062

No noticeable misfires, seems to be running really well. Block had the cylinders totally bored out and replaced with aluminum alloy cylinder plated with Nikasil by Hartech in the UK. 99.9% sure i replaced the diamond washers and all seals...absolutely no leaks seen on the engine. Used all OEM parts , Fuel injectors and coils from Pelican.
Have not driven more than 300 miles with the new Coils and fuel injectors. I am about 1,800 miles into the break in of the new rebuild, keeping revs below 5,000.

I was thinking about buying a used Gateway module to rule out that as an issue although I doubt that would give me the misfire codes. I have not completed any new coding of any of the modules. The engine bore is now 3.9l.

Have not wanted to start looking at the CAM timing as i did not know how to do it with engine in car but it sounds like it is not a big deal. When i hook up my Durametric, I see my Camshaft deviation Bank 1 as 0.0313 and for Bank 2 -4.0469. Not sure what is normal. I believe i can adjust my CAM's with this software up to 7 degrees but have not figure how to do it yet and haven't wanted to touch them as i don't know what is the Normal reading.

Immobilizer, Steering lock, ECU (all original) where all pulled last month and sent to The ECU doctor in Florida to be checked and all where good.

r_towle

If it was me I would disconnect both positive and negative leads at the battery. Zip tie these two leads together, or put a good wire connection between both of them. Let it sit like that overnight. This can drain all memory from all of the computers. Each one holds codes in memory….so it’s a hard reset.

Then see if they come back.
YMMV,

SlakkerRacingDev

Not sure on changing with durametric but the intake cam has 20 degrees of adjustability (40 crank degrees) and yours is showing off by 4 on bank 2. If that is an accurate reading, I would drop and retime the engine. The biggest key to doing a DIY rebuild that the videos don't mention is that you have to be willing to redo things 2 and 3 times to get them exactly right.

We do the first oil and filter change after 15-20miles and change the filter again at around 400. After 10-12 heat cycles with load (not idle), we consider an engine race ready.

Did you rescale the MAF in the ECU to account for the increased volume of air the cylinders are now pulling?

markus7062

Thanks....actually tried that, drained the lines for about 30 minutes...checked with a multimeter...zero. then reconnected, erased all error codes. Same codes

markus7062

I understand the comment about having to possibly of having to redo things 2 or 3 times unfortunately. I am trying to rule out any other potential issues before dropping the engine which is not an easy task at my home garage. I have not done your first suggested CAM timing check yet which was going to be my fall back position after trying everything else. Do i need to take the engine entirely out or just drop it significantly to get access?

The car seems to be running very well which makes it panful to consider dropping it again.

As to rescaling the MAF, Hartech in the UK says it is not critical to do and I do not have access to any software to do so.
thx
Mark

markus7062

Is there any easy way of checking my CAM timing with the engine in the car? I am having a hard time thinking about dropping my engine again especially when it seems to be running well. Although possible during the rebuild that i screwed up the CAM timing, it seems hard to swallow as my CAM timing jig fit perfecting before locking down all bolts on the cams. Is it possible to adjust the cams while the engine is in the car? i would have to think that the timing, if off, could only be slightly off, otherwise the engine would be running rough or not at all?
mark

r_towle

I see my Camshaft deviation Bank 1 as 0.0313 and for Bank 2 -4.0469.

that seems like a large variation between bank one and two. I’m not sure where it is, but I suspect dropping the engine may be the only way to properly do this.

markus7062

Fuel Trim Close to Idel (RKAT)
Bank 1 -0.328%
Bank 2 1.406

Re did my CAM deviation readings with my Durametric reader and if accurate it Shows:
Bank 1 0.812
Bank 2 -3.6094
Trying to understand exactly what that means and to determine if there is anyway of adjusting the CAM timing without dropping the engine.
Engine sounds great and seems to run smoothly..... so not happy about dropping the engine again but might be the solution. Not sure how i could have screwed up the CAM timing as my CAM tool fitted perfectly but maybe somehow i made an error but no idea in what step. Jake Raby's step by step engine rebuild instructions where excellent, trying to rule any other causes or potential fixes.
thx
M