997 Error Codes- Help
#16
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Fuel Trim Close to Idel (RKAT)
Bank 1 -0.328%
Bank 2 1.406
Re did my CAM deviation readings with my Durametric reader and if accurate it Shows:
Bank 1 0.812
Bank 2 -3.6094
Trying to understand exactly what that means and to determine if there is anyway of adjusting the CAM timing without dropping the engine.
Engine sounds great and seems to run smoothly..... so not happy about dropping the engine again but might be the solution. Not sure how i could have screwed up the CAM timing as my CAM tool fitted perfectly but maybe somehow i made an error but no idea in what step. Jake Raby's step by step engine rebuild instructions where excellent, trying to rule any other causes or potential fixes.
thx
M
Bank 1 -0.328%
Bank 2 1.406
Re did my CAM deviation readings with my Durametric reader and if accurate it Shows:
Bank 1 0.812
Bank 2 -3.6094
Trying to understand exactly what that means and to determine if there is anyway of adjusting the CAM timing without dropping the engine.
Engine sounds great and seems to run smoothly..... so not happy about dropping the engine again but might be the solution. Not sure how i could have screwed up the CAM timing as my CAM tool fitted perfectly but maybe somehow i made an error but no idea in what step. Jake Raby's step by step engine rebuild instructions where excellent, trying to rule any other causes or potential fixes.
thx
M
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#19
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I'm talking about the three chain tensioners (they look like lifters). Firstly, move the crank to TDC and lock it in place. To lock the appropriate cam, one has to remove two green plugs and then fit/bolt a tool into the cam end slot. Then one works with the other cam and its green plugs (after rotating the crank). One of the three chain tensioners is under the air conditioning compressor (which has to be temporarily moved out of the way). Be advised, I've just roughly outlined the procedure...
I think the three chain tensioners were about $300 total.
I think the three chain tensioners were about $300 total.
Last edited by jchapura; 06-28-2023 at 12:58 AM.
#20
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I'm talking about the three chain tensioners (they look like lifters). Firstly, move the crank to TDC and lock it in place. To lock the appropriate cam, one has to remove two green plugs and then fit/bolt a tool into the cam end slot. Then one works with the other cam and its green plugs (after rotating the crank). One of the three chain tensioners is under the air conditioning compressor (which has to be temporarily moved out of the way). Be advised, I've just roughly outlined the procedure...
I think the three chain tensioners were about $300 total.
I think the three chain tensioners were about $300 total.
Thanks
#21
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Hi Brandon,
I have swapped out my Cam Adjuster Solenoid on Bank 2 that was giving me error code p0021 and it seems to fixed the error code and i am not getting any misfire codes. I have only tested the car on Jack stand so i have been turning the car on and off and idling with a little revving but no street driving yet. Checked the cam deviation, Bank1 is 0.0 and Bank 2 is still at around -3.9. I have no idea how serious of a deviation this is and potential dangers to the engine. I have the car still on jacks and am going to attempt to check the cam timing by removing the cam caps but space is so tight that i am not sure i can do it. I have no idea how the guys in the shop would test the Timing but maybe they have a trick that i am not aware of.
I have swapped out my Cam Adjuster Solenoid on Bank 2 that was giving me error code p0021 and it seems to fixed the error code and i am not getting any misfire codes. I have only tested the car on Jack stand so i have been turning the car on and off and idling with a little revving but no street driving yet. Checked the cam deviation, Bank1 is 0.0 and Bank 2 is still at around -3.9. I have no idea how serious of a deviation this is and potential dangers to the engine. I have the car still on jacks and am going to attempt to check the cam timing by removing the cam caps but space is so tight that i am not sure i can do it. I have no idea how the guys in the shop would test the Timing but maybe they have a trick that i am not aware of.
#22
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Not sure on changing with durametric but the intake cam has 20 degrees of adjustability (40 crank degrees) and yours is showing off by 4 on bank 2. If that is an accurate reading, I would drop and retime the engine. The biggest key to doing a DIY rebuild that the videos don't mention is that you have to be willing to redo things 2 and 3 times to get them exactly right.
We do the first oil and filter change after 15-20miles and change the filter again at around 400. After 10-12 heat cycles with load (not idle), we consider an engine race ready.
Did you rescale the MAF in the ECU to account for the increased volume of air the cylinders are now pulling?
We do the first oil and filter change after 15-20miles and change the filter again at around 400. After 10-12 heat cycles with load (not idle), we consider an engine race ready.
Did you rescale the MAF in the ECU to account for the increased volume of air the cylinders are now pulling?
I have swapped out my Cam Adjuster Solenoid on Bank 2 that was giving me error code p0021 and it seems to fixed the error code and i am not getting any misfire codes. I have only tested the car on Jack stand so i have been turning the car on and off and idling with a little revving but no street driving yet. Checked the cam deviation, Bank1 is 0.0 and Bank 2 is still at around -3.9. I have no idea how serious of a deviation this is and potential dangers to the engine. I have the car still on jacks and am going to attempt to check the cam timing by removing the cam caps but space is so tight that i am not sure i can do it. I have no idea how the guys in the shop would test the Timing but maybe they have a trick that i am not aware of.