Yellow sludge oil filler tube
#1
Yellow sludge oil filler tube
Hi Porsche fam,
got this yellow / brown sludge in the oil filler tube. Bit of research shows is's moisture, and that it's usually not harmful.
Thing is I never drive short distances and the oil, 0W40 Motul 8100 XMax, is changed every 6k miles / yearly. Still accumulates a lot of moist apparently, normal?
And what's the best way to clean it? Ttaking the filler out is a pita...
Thanks!
got this yellow / brown sludge in the oil filler tube. Bit of research shows is's moisture, and that it's usually not harmful.
Thing is I never drive short distances and the oil, 0W40 Motul 8100 XMax, is changed every 6k miles / yearly. Still accumulates a lot of moist apparently, normal?
And what's the best way to clean it? Ttaking the filler out is a pita...
Thanks!
The following users liked this post:
DesmoSD (06-09-2023)
#3
Instructor
Normal. I suppose you can remove the tube and clean if so inspired. I would not clean in situ for fear of dropping something down there. However, I never have on any of my cars and have driven many 100k miles.
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Jeroen//997 (06-09-2023)
#5
Rennlist Member
OP,
concur about the moisture. motor oil has additives that by design absorb moisture.
What is your definition of "short distances", does the oil reach operating temperature, and how long is the drive after reaching the oil's operating temperature?
concur about the moisture. motor oil has additives that by design absorb moisture.
What is your definition of "short distances", does the oil reach operating temperature, and how long is the drive after reaching the oil's operating temperature?
Last edited by CAVU; 06-09-2023 at 09:25 AM.
#6
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The following users liked this post:
DesmoSD (06-09-2023)
The following users liked this post:
DesmoSD (06-09-2023)
#10
Rennlist Member
OP,
I would not worry about cleaning it. Moisture is condensing on the inner tube wall due to the tube being exposed to ambient air. Then it mixes with the oil/air mixture inherent in ICE.
I would suggest going to oil and filter changes every 6 months and see if that makes a difference.
I would not worry about cleaning it. Moisture is condensing on the inner tube wall due to the tube being exposed to ambient air. Then it mixes with the oil/air mixture inherent in ICE.
I would suggest going to oil and filter changes every 6 months and see if that makes a difference.
The following 2 users liked this post by CAVU:
DesmoSD (06-12-2023),
Jeroen//997 (06-10-2023)
#11
OP,
I would not worry about cleaning it. Moisture is condensing on the inner tube wall due to the tube being exposed to ambient air. Then it mixes with the oil/air mixture inherent in ICE.
I would suggest going to oil and filter changes every 6 months and see if that makes a difference.
I would not worry about cleaning it. Moisture is condensing on the inner tube wall due to the tube being exposed to ambient air. Then it mixes with the oil/air mixture inherent in ICE.
I would suggest going to oil and filter changes every 6 months and see if that makes a difference.
thanks, I’ll do it like that! 👍
#12
Rennlist Member
you might also check that the crank case negative pressure (at the oil filler neck is where it is tested on my 997.2) is within spec so that the AOS is operating properly. In addition to its primary function of separating oil from the blowby gases before flowing the air back into the intake manifold, the water vapor from combustion that is suspended in the blowby gases is also routed into the intake manifold. Of course some of that water vapor finds its way into the oil. If the AOS is not operating at the correct negative pressure, is inefficient or has failed, then there will be some symptoms.
Just a last thought.
Just a last thought.
Last edited by CAVU; 06-10-2023 at 03:39 PM.
The following 2 users liked this post by CAVU:
Jeroen//997 (06-11-2023),
voiceprint1 (06-10-2023)
#13
you might also check that the crank case negative pressure (at the oil filler neck is where it is tested on my 997.2) is within spec so that the AOS is operating properly. In addition to its primary function of separating oil from the blowby gases before flowing the air back into the intake manifold, the water vapor from combustion that is suspended in the blowby gases is also routed into the intake manifold. Of course some of that water vapor finds its way into the oil. If the AOS is not operating at the correct negative pressure, is inefficient or has failed, then there will be some symptoms.
Just a last thought.
Just a last thought.
thanks again!
#14
Rennlist Member
https://myemail.constantcontact.com/...id=eTkBY9h8Ej4
Make your own tester. Pickup a manometer on Amazon $40 US, buy an oil filler cap, take the screw in nipple the manometer comes with and install it in the top of the old or new oil filler cap (drill a hole and use RTV/silicone to seal it in). You now have a new tool in your box.
Make your own tester. Pickup a manometer on Amazon $40 US, buy an oil filler cap, take the screw in nipple the manometer comes with and install it in the top of the old or new oil filler cap (drill a hole and use RTV/silicone to seal it in). You now have a new tool in your box.
The following users liked this post:
Jeroen//997 (07-11-2023)
#15
https://myemail.constantcontact.com/...id=eTkBY9h8Ej4
Make your own tester. Pickup a manometer on Amazon $40 US, buy an oil filler cap, take the screw in nipple the manometer comes with and install it in the top of the old or new oil filler cap (drill a hole and use RTV/silicone to seal it in). You now have a new tool in your box.
Make your own tester. Pickup a manometer on Amazon $40 US, buy an oil filler cap, take the screw in nipple the manometer comes with and install it in the top of the old or new oil filler cap (drill a hole and use RTV/silicone to seal it in). You now have a new tool in your box.