My front coolant pipe is leaking at the junction where the metal pipe connects to the plastic pipe that runs to the front radiators.




It looks like the plastic at the bend has become brittle and cracked.




I found a video where they replaced all of the pipes and hoses up front and dropped the subframe. I think that the metal crossover pipes require that the subframe come out to get to them.

https://youtu.be/prhBQvIXFlM


The question I have is if anyone has replaced the plastic sections and the front and rear hoses without changing the metal pipes and if they still had to drop the subframe.

The metal pipes look good so I’m thinking they might not have to come out but then again they are original to the car so it wouldn’t be the worst thing.

 

I would think you would NOT need to replace any of the metal pipes.. just the rubber hoses or possibly just the rubber O-rings that are part of the Henn coupling.

 

I definitely have to replace the plastic pipes that runs
in between the metal pipes. There is one that’s leaking. I haven’t gotten the car on a lift yet to see if there is enough room to get it out without having to drop the whole subframe. I’m hoping I can.

I’m thinking the same thing though… anything plastic or rubber will be replaced. I also got a look at the radiators and while they aren’t leaking the plastic end tanks have small cracks that are bound to let go. Thinking of swapping them out too. Maybe even for the all aluminum CSF units.

 

Common issue on many 997s/ 987s - tons of vides on these being replaced - do them all. Perhaps add a center rad if you don't have one... under $200 from Porsche for whole kit.

https://www.design911.com/Porsche/99...cmo539-ct2257/

 

I have mixed thoughts about the center radiator at the moment…

 

2009 C2S 185K miles

Has anyone tried to recondition the joint? Are you sure it requires replacement?

I unhooked the links in the engine bay to flush the fluid and those big joints had corrosion and generally looked compromised. Mine weren't leaking nor are they now, but it appeared to me that you could just polish them up and lubricate the O rings with a silicone grease. No?

Peace
Bruce in Philly (now Atlanta)

 

The picture doesn’t quite show it but the bend is full of spider cracks that I can see flexing when I move the pipe. The coolant seems to be coming from there and not the o ring. The big question now is how deep do I go. If I have to drop the subframe I was thinking of doing the front sway bar while I’m there and might as well do the front radiators too.

 

You can get to all the pipes except the metal cross over pipes without dropping the subframe.

Remove the tires, wheel liner, bottom panels.

I would start with that and see if it fixes it without dropping the subframe.

 

A couple of thoughts here. Unless you have a 997.2 with PDK transmission, you do not need a center radiator, period. Porsche did add the rad for PDK cars but not stick shifts. I have a 2011 997.2 stick and there is no need to do what does not need to be done. People are obsessed with oil temps but with minimal knowledge and experience. We also do not know the real oil temp entering the heat exchanger, we only see what the gauge tells us. 200 F is good as long as it drives off some of the water. 225 F in stressed driving and hot weather is also fine, actually even better. No PDK? No 3rd radiator.
Yes you do need to drop the subframe if you want to change the sway bars (recommended). Dropping the subframe is not as scary as it sounds at least for these cars. Very tame, well mannered, and goes back up into position easily. You will need to get an alignment but you will be surprised how little it changed if you were careful.
Back to the coolant leak....

 

Thanks guys! I’m not going to do the third radiator but from the looks of the radiators that I have I think it would be prudent to swap them out. I’ve already done all of the hoses on the engine side so this would take care of the rest of the system. I guess I’ll know for sure if the subframe has to come down or not when I get there. After doing some research it doesn’t look too bad at all.

I've read mixed reviews on adding a front sway bar vs a rear bar. I have PASM with the dsc controller and might do a B12 or B16 kit when I get it on the lift. Wondering if the DSC and maybe a camber plate will be enough to dial in the suspension to have a bit less under steer on track. Still doing some homework…