Suspension rebuild questions
11-13-2022, 09:32 PM
#1
2nd Gear
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2021
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Suspension rebuild questions
Hi Everyone. 2005 997 c2 on 030 sports suspension option.
I am planning to rebuild my suspension front and back and do the wheel bearings.
I have bought replacement shocks, strut mounts, upper and lower control arms and sway bar links and bushings.
I wonder what grease/lubrication people would recommend and where?
I would also be very grateful of any general tips or suggestions for this quite big job
Thanks in advance
I am planning to rebuild my suspension front and back and do the wheel bearings.
I have bought replacement shocks, strut mounts, upper and lower control arms and sway bar links and bushings.
I wonder what grease/lubrication people would recommend and where?
I would also be very grateful of any general tips or suggestions for this quite big job
Thanks in advance
11-13-2022, 10:11 PM
#2
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
2009 C2S 184K miles
I did a big similar job. I have a few recommendations:
Replacing the bearings: I recommend buying the bearings, but bring your carriers (knuckles) to any speed shop and have them press the parts out and into the carrier. You need a hydraulic press. I you have such a press, it is pretty easy to do. I saw the tech use a torch to heat up and expand the carrier as he did the pressings.
Emergency brake cable and assembly: Make sure the cable is fully released in the car... like really fully released. Take many and good pictures of that shoe assembly... it was really difficult to get it all back together and getting those springs to hook inside the carrier was a real torment. Really think the orientation of the springs and pieces parts through. Take it apart slowly.
The emergency cable end: This was another trouble spot. The Porsche parts diagrams for my 2009 .2 car showed the cable end as being multiple parts... the cable and a tube that is pressed into the back of the carrier was noted as two pieces with separate part numbers. It was not... it was all one crimp-welded piece. I could not get that tube out of the carrier and you must do this to totally free the carrier from the car and take the carrier to your press. I almost cut it thinking I could just buy new pieces and am so glad I didn't cut anything. I got it out of the carrier by freezing the tube using a simple can of compressed air (simple duster for photography and computer tech). I turned the can upside down and shot the fluid on the tube... this freezed the f'er up real good. Then at the same time, I had a vice grip locked on it tight. Finally it started to move and I worked it back and forth and wiggled it out. Same for getting it back in... freeze it and put a light oil on it.. WD40 IIRC. Now you really really must get that tube back in all the way pressed to the end of the hole. If you don't, the emergency cable will now have a longer length and be way out of adjustment... it does not take much.
I think I used a 3rd, small cheapie jack I borrowed from a friend to press up on the rotor to alleviate any hanging pressure and line up bolt holes. You will need two jacks to jack up the whole rear end so the wheels each hang from the car... this will allow the sway bar to move freely and have no torsion torque (this a thing?) on the links.
If you are going to separate the springs from the shocks, I did not need a spring compressor.
For torquing the axle nut... it takes some gawdawful amount of torqe and a torque wrench that big, or one of those multipliers, cost big money. I just did some math and used a breaker bar... physics is your friend.
Read about my adventure here with the information on torquing that nut down without a torque wrench... oh, and I read somewhere you are supposed to buy a new nut and use copper antisieze (not that silver aluminum stuff).
https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...l#post16899258
Torquing all those bolts.... forget it. You can't get a torque wrench in there. If you do want to, you will need a whole set of crows feet in goofy sizes no one has.
Good luck and report your progress. Oh, I need some really big box wrenches and needed to run up to the store a few times... so make sure you have a car available and during store hours.
Peace
Bruce in Philly (now Atlanta)
I did a big similar job. I have a few recommendations:
Replacing the bearings: I recommend buying the bearings, but bring your carriers (knuckles) to any speed shop and have them press the parts out and into the carrier. You need a hydraulic press. I you have such a press, it is pretty easy to do. I saw the tech use a torch to heat up and expand the carrier as he did the pressings.
Emergency brake cable and assembly: Make sure the cable is fully released in the car... like really fully released. Take many and good pictures of that shoe assembly... it was really difficult to get it all back together and getting those springs to hook inside the carrier was a real torment. Really think the orientation of the springs and pieces parts through. Take it apart slowly.
The emergency cable end: This was another trouble spot. The Porsche parts diagrams for my 2009 .2 car showed the cable end as being multiple parts... the cable and a tube that is pressed into the back of the carrier was noted as two pieces with separate part numbers. It was not... it was all one crimp-welded piece. I could not get that tube out of the carrier and you must do this to totally free the carrier from the car and take the carrier to your press. I almost cut it thinking I could just buy new pieces and am so glad I didn't cut anything. I got it out of the carrier by freezing the tube using a simple can of compressed air (simple duster for photography and computer tech). I turned the can upside down and shot the fluid on the tube... this freezed the f'er up real good. Then at the same time, I had a vice grip locked on it tight. Finally it started to move and I worked it back and forth and wiggled it out. Same for getting it back in... freeze it and put a light oil on it.. WD40 IIRC. Now you really really must get that tube back in all the way pressed to the end of the hole. If you don't, the emergency cable will now have a longer length and be way out of adjustment... it does not take much.
I think I used a 3rd, small cheapie jack I borrowed from a friend to press up on the rotor to alleviate any hanging pressure and line up bolt holes. You will need two jacks to jack up the whole rear end so the wheels each hang from the car... this will allow the sway bar to move freely and have no torsion torque (this a thing?) on the links.
If you are going to separate the springs from the shocks, I did not need a spring compressor.
For torquing the axle nut... it takes some gawdawful amount of torqe and a torque wrench that big, or one of those multipliers, cost big money. I just did some math and used a breaker bar... physics is your friend.
Read about my adventure here with the information on torquing that nut down without a torque wrench... oh, and I read somewhere you are supposed to buy a new nut and use copper antisieze (not that silver aluminum stuff).
https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...l#post16899258
Torquing all those bolts.... forget it. You can't get a torque wrench in there. If you do want to, you will need a whole set of crows feet in goofy sizes no one has.
Good luck and report your progress. Oh, I need some really big box wrenches and needed to run up to the store a few times... so make sure you have a car available and during store hours.
Peace
Bruce in Philly (now Atlanta)
11-13-2022, 10:34 PM
#4
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
BTW, I am just hack... so maybe some do lube other things. Don't listen to just me.
Peace
Bruce in Philly (now Atlanta)
11-14-2022, 05:36 PM
#5
Listen everything Bruce said
I would also add to tape up the fenders or cover them really well
Up front the only lube called for is on the axle splines and nut. It's a high temp/high pressure lube
You can get to all the nuts with a crows foot on a torque wrench and doing the math to adjust the torque correctly. But they are even sizes. I had to buy an 18mm crows foot separate so if you are getting a set make sure it has the even numbers.
I would also add to tape up the fenders or cover them really well
Up front the only lube called for is on the axle splines and nut. It's a high temp/high pressure lube
You can get to all the nuts with a crows foot on a torque wrench and doing the math to adjust the torque correctly. But they are even sizes. I had to buy an 18mm crows foot separate so if you are getting a set make sure it has the even numbers.