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Decided that since the problem was the bearing and I destroyed one strut and mount only to replace the bearings, struts, and mounts.
The mounts were almost $500 from FCP and only $300 on eBay. The problem is I ordered the eBay mounts on Oct 1 and they won't be here until at least the 17th
So I'm the meantime
Getting rid of the minimal rust at the top of the wheel well. Anyone know the paint color for the Porsche primer? It looks greenish.
I ordered the wishbone looking mounts but not the coffin arms. All the rubber is still in good shape and the ball joints are still tight.
The brake line I ordered (because I screwed up) is of course coming from Germany and won't be shipped until mid November...
But I am buying a 3/4 inch turbine wrench for the axle bolt so I can tighten it correctly rather than 250 ft/lbs plus some. Anyone know the size of the axle nut? I think I used an SAE one to remove it on my 1/2inch impact wrench. But I don't know what size it was. The writing had long disappeared on the socket.
For the nut part number (99908464102), again, don't take our word for it, I always pull down the official parts catalog with diagrams from the Porsche website... then you are sure.
Torquing from my post: For torquing the axle nut to 340 ft lbs, there is a trick. I could not find a torque wrench that big and I was going to buy a torque multiplier tool... but that all costs money. The trick is to divide 340 by your body weight. For me, that was 1.7 ft. or 20.4 inches. So, with a breaker bar perpendicular to the ground, I stood on the bar at 20.4 inches, or thereabouts and let the bar settle. It will settle at 340 ft lbs. Coooool.
I did not buy any special wrench and used my breaker bar. I did have to buy a socket... sorry forget the size. (32mm?)
Oh, and the manual notes to use, specifically, copper antiseize on the axle nut.
Peace
Bruce in Philly (now Atlanta)
Last edited by Bruce In Philly; 10-19-2022 at 12:01 AM.
I bought a 3/4 600lb torque wrench. First - it's a tool. Second I can justify the cost by the sayings by doing it myself.
Does the anti seize go on the splines also? My splines seem to have some type of grease on them, but all the axles I have replaced in the last said to do clean and dry. And my axles were seized in the bearing. I had to use an air hammer to get them off.
I bought a 3/4 600lb torque wrench. First - it's a tool. Second I can justify the cost by the sayings by doing it myself.
Does the anti seize go on the splines also? My splines seem to have some type of grease on them, but all the axles I have replaced in the last said to do clean and dry. And my axles were seized in the bearing. I had to use an air hammer to get them off.
I read the post. Strong work.
All I know, is that my manual said to use copper antiseize on the threads. When I removed my nuts (ouch!), there was plenty of nice copper antiseize still on there and I really did not have to add any. I could smear the slight gobs on the inside of the thread back out over the threads as needed, but again, it was very copper and very covered when I removed the nut. Before I removed the nut, I could not see any copper antisieze by just looking at the tightened nut.
Odd you did not see this. Was your car in an accident before? Did someone modify the car before your ownership? Something appears really odd. Again, the copper antiseize was plentiful, not dirty, and the whole thing looked pristine when I pulled the nut and the car had 159K miles on it. I did not need an airgun... I don't think I had any trouble removing the original nut... I just don't remember exactly but that tells me I did not have any issues.
Peace
Bruce in Philly (now Atlanta)
Last edited by Bruce In Philly; 10-19-2022 at 12:12 AM.
All I know, is that my manual said to use copper antiseize on the threads.[...]
I would like to cautiously disagree. Due to the many aluminum parts at this place, Porsche (and others) prescribes Optimoly TA on the chassis parts, etc. If you found copper antiseize, some work had be performed at these parts before. Copper and aluminum cause electrochemical corrosion, especially when an electrolyte is present (salt). You can do this of course, but you have to know what you are doing (as always).
I follow that thread eagerly as it continues, with one or the other picture I shortly stopped breathing ...
This thread kind of reminds me of the guy in NY that bought a Turbo and disassembled it on the street in front of his house. That was a total **** show. However, I think the OP is pulling our legs and that he is a lot more knowledgeable and competent than he is letting on. Either way, this is fun to spectate.
I would like to cautiously disagree. Due to the many aluminum parts at this place, Porsche (and others) prescribes Optimoly TA on the chassis parts, etc. If you found copper antiseize, some work had be performed at these parts before. Copper and aluminum cause electrochemical corrosion, especially when an electrolyte is present (salt). You can do this of course, but you have to know what you are doing (as always).
I follow that thread eagerly as it continues, with one or the other picture I shortly stopped breathing ...
Maybe... always a caution... see below from my shop manual. I did buy my car used with 26K miles many years ago and it did have a bad Carfax "hit a wild animal"... I still have no idea where the damage was... so... a repair on my car was possible (both carriers though?). Anywho... the manual notes using Optimoly HT... the data sheets say it is a copper or gold color (I saw vivid copper).
Interesting, I do a research on this. Btw, the name is Optimol HT, so the first error is already in the translation :-) But your experience shows that it worked and the color points to copper.
When I dropped my transaxle last spring for a clutch job, I was looking for the same product but couldn't find it. Somebody here on Rennlist recommended this which I sourced from AutohausAZ:
Castrol Tribol GR 4000-3 PD Long-term grease with MicroFlux Trans (Langzeit-schmierfett mit PD-Technologie)
The data sheets I found for Optimoly HT noted only color. Here I found some pics of the what I think is the tube in German. On the rear of the tube, you can read Kupfer, German for Copper.
10-15-2022, 11:33 AM
