Most likely I don’t know what I am talking about… I recall that there is a fuse for the ignition. Someone in this forum had advised to pull that fuse before starting the engine after an oil change, the engine would crank to prime the internal parts but not fire up…maybe it’s worth to check that fuse.

 

For that purpose fuel pump. But worth checking. Picture shows MK1-Models.

 

Finally got back to the car this morning….found D1 , D9, D10 all blown. THANK YOU. Replaced them…………Car cranked over and started!!!!! As this is a total rebuild with all internals new and a different bore….it is running ruff and I still have a check engine light and a Pasm malfunction. The car is blowing lots of white smoke out of the drivers side exhaust. It sure what the issue is as it is only coming out of the drivers side. Initially some fluid coming out of the drivers side pipe….not so after running for a few minutes. Exhaust should be dry when I mounted it back on the engine as it has sat in my garage for two years while I did the rebuild.
Still not sure about the ECU/DME…maybe it is causing the issue. Any other suggestions other than get my hands on a code reader to determine what the check engine light means?

I might be lucky on this one, at least I got the engine going.

 

Cue a giant sigh of relief.

No telling what oils were in the combustion chambers before you started it. Oil left in only one would be enough to cause smoke for a while.

Congrats on getting this far. Good luck moving forward. Keep the group apprised.

 

Hope it all works out

 

Blowing a bit of smoke at first start up is ok but it should not be pouring white smoke out. Id take a close look at everything before running it again

 

the white smoke has gone…engine runs smoothly but it is burning coolant somehow, coming from the passenger side to the drivers side exhaust. Block was redone with new cylinders and the heads where both rebuilt and installed new head gaskets…..at a loss where the coolant problem is. I pressure tested the cooling system that held a -0.7 bar for 10 minutes…no leaks. Not sure what to test now. I can’t believe I would have screwed up installing the head gasket….but maybe.

 

Well, the reverse polarity is resolved!! That’s good. Now back to the main course of troubleshooting til it’s back on the road.

 

It's possible that you have a bad head gasket or contamination allowing the coolant to leak into a single cylinder. Refer to Murphy's Law. If the valves on that cylinder were closed the pressure test may have looked good. You may want to rotate the motor and test in a few different positions before making conclusions.

FWIW, I had a shop teacher who felt any intermix required a full rebuild since anti freeze on lubricated surfaces would forever cause a problem. So, when I used to do rebuilds, I would always fill with water only until everything checked out fine. If I were you, I'd drain the coolant system and change the oil before continuing. But that's just me.

In the meantime, and on the bright side, you are way ahead of where you were a couple of days ago!!!

 

yes…the positive side engine was toast a couple of years ago and I have rebuilt it to where I am today…lots of unknown turns and a couple of truly idiot moments..
Now I am dealing with the coolant leak that is probably coming from the passengers side engine bank. I have had one head replaced and both rebuilt but it looks like I most likely have a leak in the passenger bank side. I have been told by a long term expert that he has never seen a defective head gasket…so it leaves it to a crack in the block…which is highly unlikely as it was totally redone with new cylinders …but is looking like maybe the shop that did the head work might have *#*#* up. Will be checking tomorrow. I know that somehow the coolant is very lightly leaking into my left exhaust and causing smoke and odour. Beyond this I don’t know….I am begging to think that this whole process is about the journey and not the destination

 

^^If the shop F_cked up, will they repair the engine?
Sounds like a major issue if it is their fault

 

OP, very sorry for your woes, and hope your coolant issue is minor. It doesn’t help that on many batteries the + and - marks are nearly invisible. After putting a charger on backwards with thankfully no adverse effects I got out the labeler to make it idiot-proof(?).

 

The battery posts are different diameters which theoretically makes it much more difficult to hook a battery up backwards unless you really over stretch the smaller connector on its cable.

Hooking up a trickle charger backwards ... yeah, with clips, this can happen. But most chargers will warn you ... unless the battery is completely drained.

 

Drove the car for 15 minutes, monitoring everything….car ran smoothly but definitely have a coolant leak that is coming from the passenger side of the engine…smoke.. Pulled the header off and ran the engine to try and see if I could see any steam or leaking…..but none. I probably have no choice but to drop the engine and pull the head off and get it pressure tested. I have brand new cylinders in the block, extremely unlikely any cracks. The head was a replacement head that was rebuilt(original too damaged). Not sure of how the coolant is circulated within the head/engine.
I installed a new head gasket as part of the rebuild, would seem unlikely to be the source of the problem…one engine rebuilder tells me he has never seen one fail.
To top off my test day yesterday…..I could not get the shifter to go into Reverse …small problem compared to my coolant leak.

 

Very sorry to hear about your engine. I re-read your initial post and see you rebuilt the engine yourself.
Considering you inadvertently hooked up your battery incorrectly, isn't there a chance you missed a step during your rebuild and reason for the coolant issue?
I'm not trying to throw you under the bus or disrespecting you, but rebuilding a 997 engine takes a good amount of expertise and requires a good amount of mechanical experience.
From my many visits to my Porsche Specialist Indy and watching him rebuild Porsche engines over past 38 years, there's a lot of expertise required and years of experience needed in order to rebuild any Porsche engine.
I'd imagine a seal is not seated properly or similar causing the coolant leak/mix.
Sorry you have to deal with it but can't be too surprising considering you have never rebuilt a 997 engine and I believe it takes a lot more experience than just taking a class.