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I only broke 2 header bolts when removing the stock headers—the right front and left rear.
Neither wanted to come out, so I ordered the Stomski kit. The right front bolt drilled out nicely, but it looks like one of the coolant fittings and its hose interferes with where the drill bit needs to go to drill out the left rear.
Does anyone have any advice on how to tackle this? Even a long 3/16” bit doesn’t clear the hose going in straight.
That’s what I’m afraid is going to be the case. Does that mean totally draining the cooling system, since it’s about at the lowest point?
It looks like getting the hose off the fitting may create enough room to get the drill bit in there. I’ve ordered a couple of expanding plugs so I can try to quickly plug both parts when I pull the hose so I don’t loose much coolant.
This project has been the epitome of “. . .and another thing”
That’s what I’m afraid is going to be the case. Does that mean totally draining the cooling system, since it’s about at the lowest point?
No idea but seems like the only logical solution. Maybe after removing clamp/hose then sliding a plastic bag up the large pipe held w/rubber band to save most of the coolant from draining.
I replaced my coolant ... just because I thought it was a good thing to do... and used an Airlift to re-fill. Makes it super simple. It is not that bad .... like everything, it is about the tools. If you like having "life time" fluid in your car, I can understand the annoyance, but I would take the opportunity to flush the whole system.
I replaced my coolant ... just because I thought it was a good thing to do... and used an Airlift to re-fill. Makes it super simple. It is not that bad .... like everything, it is about the tools. If you like having "life time" fluid in your car, I can understand the annoyance, but I would take the opportunity to flush the whole system.
I also don't believe in the whole 'lifetime fluid' concept. Fluid replacements are cheap insurance and an easy way to get a deeper view of what's going on inside. That said, I just had the coolant flushed and replaced about a year ago, so am trying to save it if I can. I think I can get away with pulling that hose and plugging both sides with some good plugs. Is there any risk to introducing that much air into the system with a short open/plug/unplug/reconnect?
Coolant flush should be done every 50K miles.
Considering every coolant tank cracks and needs replacing many cars have had coolant flush/replacement when these tanks are replaced.
Either way, coolant flush important just like brake flush.
And if you have a C4 or C4S, front differential fluid should be replaced after 80K miles as well as all Manual Transmission fluid.
Last edited by groovzilla; 08-14-2022 at 02:25 PM.
Remove the thermostat. Getting that drilled straight is way more important that not wanting to refill the coolant. Make sure to order a new thermostat gasket to replace.
Coolant flush should be done every 50K miles.
Considering every coolant tank cracks and needs replacing many cars have had coolant flush/replacement when these tanks are replaced.
Either way, coolant flush important just like brake flush.
And if you have a C4 or C4S, front differential fluid should be replaced after 80K miles as well as all Manual Transmission fluid.
Since I just got the car August 1 of last year, I had every fluid in it replaced and everything flushable flushed shortly after, to get it to a known baseline that I can work off of going forward.
Remove the thermostat. Getting that drilled straight is way more important that not wanting to refill the coolant. Make sure to order a new thermostat gasket to replace.
I took a harder look at everything this morning while replacing the motor mounts. It looks like the drill bits may clear once I remove the hose and the hose clamp, so that's going to be the first step. If it still doesn't clear, then I'll pull the thermostat housing (and likely replace the thermostat with a low temp one at the same time). The list of 'while I'm down here I might as well replace X,Y, and Z' continues to grow on this one. Someday I'll actually get the Soul headers and cats on the car
Re: getting air into your system. Once everything is attached, keep your drained coolent aside. Then start your car and drive until up to normal temps and turn your heat on full. Then get the RPMs up to 6K and hold it there (drop to 2nd gear), and then do it again. Three times should be more than enough to blow the air out and back to the tank. Top off the tank. If you scavenged 100% of the fluid, you should know if there is any air in the system because you will have some left over.
what about using a 90 degree bit adapter for your drill, assuming you have the room "sideways" ? I have one from Dewalt - but the key would be that your drill bit has a flat side to it and short enough....
what about using a 90 degree bit adapter for your drill, assuming you have the room "sideways" ? I have one from Dewalt - but the key would be that your drill bit has a flat side to it and short enough....
Sadly the space is too small. The adapter would have to be about 1/4” thick. If it weren’t for bad luck on this project I’d have no luck at all 😁
08-13-2022, 10:38 PM
Drilling broken exhaust header bolts — left rear
