As in no noticable difference at all, or only minor improvement?

Thanks.

Karl.

 

I didn't see any improvement, at all. But the temperature gauge doesn't read to a tenth of a degree and it is difficult to control temperature and humidity and driving loads and everything else. I imagine there had to be some improvement. But it was so little as to be neither measurable or significant. I had hoped for better, especially after all the time it took to straight those fins. It was disappointing.

 

Bummer.

 

Did you go by the gauge or were you using an OBD reader? You can't go by the temperature gauge on the dash: it's highly damped and it'll read center of dial over literally like a 40-degree range.

 

Bruce, use EMC2's info and buy the .1 3rd radiator kit. It is much less than the .2 kit. You will have to buy a new center shroud/duct specifically for .2 cars and EMC2 provides the exact part number. Use the money you save to buy his adapter kit for the side radiators. I did this mod on my GTS and added some install notes in my build thread (link in my sig). Between Emc2design (https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...n-t-fit-2.html), Wayne Smith, and my build thread, you have all the info you need to do the install. Best of luck.

 

I'll disagree with those that say a 3rd radiator does 'nothing' to help in traffic. True, you need air moving over the 3rd radiator to see the full benefit from it, but from my experience, it still helps in stop-n-go traffic to a certain extent. First, when I was stuck in stop-n-go before I added the 3rd radiator, it was not uncommon for my oil temp to get up to 240 (I have a .1 car). After the install, I have not seen my oil temps exceed 215-220 in stop-n-go traffic, and I even added the radiator screens when I installed the 3rd radiator. Second, when you do get moving again, the oil temp drops back down to "normal" (200-205) much faster than without the 3rd radiator. Keep in mind, you're adding cooling capacity and coolant volume to the entire system with the 3rd radiator, which I believe helps keep oil temps at a reasonable number even at slower speeds.

 

I ignore the water gauge. The water temp is a joke. That is, I ignore it as long as it doesn't rise above 175F. It did this once when my oil temp approached 275F. I dialed back my driving immediately and the water temp settled back down to 175F on the gauge. In reality, in the OBD II this was 235F.

But the oil temp seems to correspond with my OBD II reader. That's the gauge I use.

 

Living in Phoenix, I added the third radiator to my .1 because it just seemed like a no brainer for the price. That being said, I don't notice a ton of difference in oil temps but I'm also not using an OBD II reader. I do have one, and maybe I'll look at more detailed temps for driving vs. slow moving traffic, however, it's kind of a moot point since I didn't do any logging before the third radiator was installed. It must do something because that's a big surface to additionally cool temps. In the summertime, oil temps are up about 225° pretty much all the time from what I can see on the gauge. You've made me curiouser.

 

Bruce,

your radiators are really dirty and clogged. Vacuuming them and washing them with water should help tremendously.

The third radiator as mentioned will not help much in stop and go traffic. At least on my 997.1 (not sure about the 997.2), it really elevates the temperature of the front frunk. If you put groceries shopping bags, they will be cooked and ready to serve, when you arrive home.... :-)
Seriously, after a trip of two or three hours, my GPS unit and the CD changer are no longer functioning, because of the heat. The center radiator expels the heat from below, which is against the laws of physics and bakes the frunk. Again, the radiator on the 997.2 may be better designed but I have never seen one, close.

Yves

 

It sounds like what you're suggesting is to add the GT3 smile vent...

 

You don't need a "third" radiator because you don't even have two now. The flattened condenser fins have greatly reduced the forced convection by at least 40 % to the radiator. Also the lower rows of fins on the actual radiator are also flattened. Ths looks like the classic pressure washer problem for "cleaning" out fin and tube heat exchangers. With air flow restored through the condenser and the radiator truely cleaned (pull the condenser away from the radiator so a good cleaning of the actual radiator can be done.) then you should be good to go. As to Wayne's situation, he has a PDK which makes his car a completely different animal as to cooling systems and heat transfer. His car needs a third radiator and that is why Porsche added that to the late .2 PDK cars. Your stick shift car does not need it.

 

Interesting thoughts on heating the frunk. I haven't noticed anything but I carry tools, spares, fluids, and detailing materials in the frunk. Unless I need these for myself or others my frunk remains closed. I'll have to check for heat after a long drive.

It is a valid point between PDK and MT but I still prefer additional cooling. Porsche engineers have had to eek more power out of the flat 6 over the years which in turn has created more heat. They've had to do this without increasing frontal area. My car's temperature is not regulated. It is a function of load. Not ideal IMHO. Additional cooling surface has to help (at least a bit) in the cooling system's attempt to maintain a theoretical ideal operating temperature.

 

I'd like to ask you what reader you're using and which app? I have a Wi-Fi OBDII reader and I'm using the OBD Fusion app. I can't seem to get Oil Temp. to read anything... Maybe user error or the dongle doesn't support this?

 

My basic OBD II reader is the OBD GO from 9xxresearch. That also does not read oil temperature. I used to have one that did but I'm not sure what that was anymore. I'm sure there are many that can chime in here.

Bottom line still is ... ignore the water temperature gauge.

 

Update after cleaning radiators.

Well I was surprised. Cleaning actually helped the temps. I did not think what I perceived as a small amount of crap in the gap would matter but it sure did. Floyd and Yves, you were right!

So I traveled the same evil, crowded highway as before when ambient temp was 91-93F.... Where the temps would spike was when I was over 4K RPM accelerating to hit the gaps and such. Before with crap in the gap, I would almost hit 250F (oil) and it would be very slow to come down. Now the highest I hit was a bit above 225F but they came down quicker that before and stabilized between 220 and 225... maybe closer to 225. The oil temp was just more stable.

So I am not sure I will do the third radiator... maybe a few more tests on these hot days.

Overall, my temps are a bit odd to me. The car seems to run "cool" until it runs "hot" and when it runs hot, it kinda stays there. As if it has two modes of operation.

Peace
Bruce in Philly (now Atlanta)