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Two things - the error looks like it knows the fan isn't working...that's different than the temp sensor running the fan all the time. Put 12v directly to your fan contacts and see if it spins - if it does, start tracing it backwards. If it doesn't, the fan has failed. The tip of your temp sensor should be in space. It's not pushed all the way into the rubber mount, but doing so actually looks like it will make it worse so something is amiss there. If that tip is touching the metal intake tube, it won't read engine bay temp accurately.
What Pete said... +1. Regarding the fuse... if a fuse blew, it most likely blew for a reason. When electric motors begin to fail... they can fail as a process... the fan starts to exert physical resistance and therefore electrical resistance goes up and when it crests a threshold, the fuse blows. So... if the fuse blew and you replace it, the fan may work for some period of time but then the fuse will blow again if not immediately (the circuit must call for the fan to be on in order for the fuse to blow).
Your fuse box should have had a paper diagram of the fuse layout... else, here is a link. This is for a .2 I believe, make sure the .1 vs .2 diagram is relevant as needed. If you just want to test the fuses, very easy to do, put a multi-meter (select continuity) and place the probes into the little silver contact points on each fuse... you meter will beep if the fuse is good. No need to remove the fuses to check.
BTW, if you don't have a 12 volt battery to use on the fan contacts, I found you can use a plain old 9 volt radio battery as it will turn the fan fine and do no damage... in my experience.
Peace
Bruce in Philly (now Atlanta)
Last edited by Bruce In Philly; 12-04-2023 at 01:06 PM.
Thank you so much Pete and Bruce for the quick and detailed answers 🙏🏼 Champions. I will check with 12/9 volts.
By the way, it's hard to see in the picture. But the sensor does not touch the metal. It just seems that way. I will check my fuses with a multimeter.
Bruce, what you wrote about the fan is interesting. I previously had the same fault code (p1675) and I thought I had a blown bulb, but finally after locating a blown fuse (B F2 7.5 amps) and after that it went back to working normally. To this day.
Apparently the fan is at the end of its life?
In general - do you open the spoiler on hot days in traffic jams?
In addition, After driving and removing the car key from the switch, does the engine compartment fan continue to work?
If the engine compartment is hot enough the spoiler will deploy on its own. Yes, the fan operates after removing the key.
Thanks! I assume you mean that the spoiler will deploy that the car is hot only while driving (not with the key out and car cover). nice to know! I was sure that the spoiler will deploy only from a certain speed.
Thanks! I assume you mean that the spoiler will deploy that the car is hot only while driving (not with the key out and car cover). nice to know! I was sure that the spoiler will deploy only from a certain speed.
The spoiler will not move with the key out. It always deploys at (I think) 75 mph and will then stay deployed until you slow to (again, I think) 35 mph. However, engine bay temperature is added to the algorithm to affect the actual speeds. But we mere mortals don't have access to the specifics regarding that!!!
Update - I tested with a 9 volt battery.
The fan is running (although not quiet, a little squeaking noise, but maybe it's because of the low voltage of 9 volts).
I also went through the fuses in front. Everything seems fine. Probably the fuse of the fan behind the subwoofer is burnt..
if the fault was related to a temperature sensor then it would indicate it as a fault in the scanner, right?
Hmmm... shouldn't squeak... maybe as it warms up it will sieze and trip the warning. Fans usually fail because of the bearings wear out... hence the squealing. How does it feel when you turn it by hand... it should be super free with no jiggle.
The fuse for the "engine compartment fan relay" is F8.
Peace
Bruce in Philly (now Atlanta)
Last edited by Bruce In Philly; 12-05-2023 at 08:20 PM.
Hmmm... shouldn't squeak... maybe as it warms up it will sieze and trip the warning. Fans usually fail because of the bearings wear out... hence the squealing. How does it feel when you turn it by hand... it should be super free with no jiggle.
The fuse for the "engine compartment fan relay" is F8.
Peace
Bruce in Philly (now Atlanta)
I will check today with my finger if the fan runs smoothly and freely. So what is the 10 amp fuse that is behind the subwoofer (post number #17)? Is it related to a temperature sensor?
Originally Posted by 911andchips
fyi- when my fan became inoperative I got a warning message saying rear deck fan faulty
the rear subwoofer was disassembled (at a professional installer following the installation of a smart alarm system in the car that was performed the day before the fan stopped working) and I don't know if this is related to the installation of the alarm system that was installed before the fan stopped working or not.
Maybe there was a voltage drop in the installation. also possible..
But one thing is certain. 2 burnt fuses were found in the back. 3 A and 10 A fuse.
The fuses were replaced and the fan works!
I couldn't locate what each of these fuses belong to - does anyone know?
BTW, now the fan works fast and turns off as soon as I turn off the car. and does not make squeaks. Probably because it now receives a voltage of 12v. Could it be that the fuses were blown following the installation of an alarm system? Is it because of the fan? It's still interesting.
And of course many thanks to everyone. You are champions.
I have a big PDF of all fuses... PM me with your email and I can send it to you.... I don;'t know where I get this stuff.... it is called "997 - Carrera Coupe Model 2009 Sheet 31 Fuse Assignment" ... it comes up in Adobe Reader really goofy like or I would snip a page view for post here.
That should be "Fuse Holder F" and the three are denoted as: F1 10A Engine Compartment Purge Fan, F2 3A Engine Compartment Purge Fan, F3 ---- Free
The relays group is titled " Fuse Holder Relay Support, Rear": F1 40 A Secondary Air Pump, F2 40A Heater Rear Window, F3 ----- Free
I don't know why F3 for both groups are denoted a free but have something in them.... Something added in later years... Cabriolet?
I still say it shouldn't squeak... if the fuse(s) pop again, I would just replace the fan. I never looked that closely at that fan, but I wonder if it can be lubricated with a very light oil? Probably not, that should be sealed up for weather proofing... but I would look.
Peace
Bruce in Philly (now Atlanta)
Last edited by Bruce In Philly; 12-06-2023 at 05:53 PM.
I have a big PDF of all fuses... PM me with your email and I can send it to you.... I don;'t know where I get this stuff.... it is called "997 - Carrera Coupe Model 2009 Sheet 31 Fuse Assignment" ... it comes up in Adobe Reader really goofy like or I would snip a page view for post here.
That should be "Fuse Holder F" and the three are denoted as: F1 10A Engine Compartment Purge Fan, F2 3A Engine Compartment Purge Fan, F3 ---- Free
The relays group is titled " Fuse Holder Relay Support, Rear": F1 40 A Secondary Air Pump, F2 40A Heater Rear Window, F3 ----- Free
I don't know why F3 for both groups are denoted a free but have something in them.... Something added in later years?
Peace
Bruce in Philly (now Atlanta)
Thanks Bruce
I used the picture published at the beginning of the post (by a guy who also has a GTS 2011).
My fuses are exactly the same.. Maybe in 997.2 S it is different from GTS?
(Mine is GTS coupe without rear wiper). What is the difference between F1 10A and F2 3A? :/
12-04-2023, 12:34 PM
