Less than impressive brakes C4S
#17
Rennlist Member
bleed your brakes. i just changed my rotors and pads, and everything felt squishy. not bad, just squishy. ended up bleeding my brakes all over again today and i went overboard and used more than 2 liters. brakes are fine now.
#18
Nordschleife Master
#19
The C4S has some of the best brakes next to the Turbos. In fact the C4S has the Turbo brake booster system which presses the pads closer to the rotor as a preload feature the instant you get off throttle. My 2006 C4S has brakes for days and I have never been disappointed with these powerful brakes in the canyons and on track....
Except for once, when I replaced my TEXTAR pads with "Quiet / low dust" ATE pads. Worst mistake I ever made because those ATE pads sucked! They were not aggressive in bite and heated up super fast. Even after I did a proper pad/rotor bedding process. Lost so much brake performance that it actually scared the hell out me in the canyons. Threw those pads in the trash with 200 miles on them. Ordered a new set of TEXTAR and all is great in the braking department again.
There are lots of great threads on this topic. check out this one. In general, could be air in the lines, old/worn out brake fluid, crappy "quiet/low dust" pads or a master cylinder. A brake fluid change, bleed lines with Motul RBF 600, and fresh TEXTAR pads should solve your problem, hopefully.
https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...l#post16174219
Except for once, when I replaced my TEXTAR pads with "Quiet / low dust" ATE pads. Worst mistake I ever made because those ATE pads sucked! They were not aggressive in bite and heated up super fast. Even after I did a proper pad/rotor bedding process. Lost so much brake performance that it actually scared the hell out me in the canyons. Threw those pads in the trash with 200 miles on them. Ordered a new set of TEXTAR and all is great in the braking department again.
There are lots of great threads on this topic. check out this one. In general, could be air in the lines, old/worn out brake fluid, crappy "quiet/low dust" pads or a master cylinder. A brake fluid change, bleed lines with Motul RBF 600, and fresh TEXTAR pads should solve your problem, hopefully.
https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...l#post16174219
#21
I had a similar feeling on my 997.2 C2S when I had it. CPO car. I believe was on the original pads on a 2011 car (this was in 2018). 50% worn. Also had some ABS issues with that car where ABS would continually activate when it shouldn't.
But the lack of a hard brake pedal never went away even after multiple times bleeding the brakes including activating ABS when bleeding. Also bedded them in multiple times. I bet a fresh set of pads would have helped.
Also, don't confuse a mushy brake pedal with a lack of initial bite. There are lots of cars (Audi for one) that gives you a very strong initial bite to inspire confidence in braking. Then there are brakes such as Porsche where you don't get that super strong initial bite but it still feels like a strong firm pedal. PCCB's do have a very strong initial bite in my experience.
But the lack of a hard brake pedal never went away even after multiple times bleeding the brakes including activating ABS when bleeding. Also bedded them in multiple times. I bet a fresh set of pads would have helped.
Also, don't confuse a mushy brake pedal with a lack of initial bite. There are lots of cars (Audi for one) that gives you a very strong initial bite to inspire confidence in braking. Then there are brakes such as Porsche where you don't get that super strong initial bite but it still feels like a strong firm pedal. PCCB's do have a very strong initial bite in my experience.
#22
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A spongy brake pedal is never a good thing. The first thing I'd check from a safety standpoint is to see if you are loosing fluid.
Does the pedal get hard when you pump it? If thats the case then you need to bleed your system. If you are using a pressure bleeder and keep getting the same results, try this method, it is the only way I can get a good bleed with a pressure bleeder. Pump bleeder up to 20-25 psi. Crack first bleeder valve, go to brake pedal and pump the brake pedal very slowly 1/2 in. Do this about 6-8 times per bleeder. I had an issue getting a hard pedal and after talking to about every tech in the GT3 Cup Paddock one long time tech taught me this method, it has worked for me ever since.
If that doesn't solve your problem then it sounds like you need some new brake pads, which we would gladly help you with!!
--Aaron
Does the pedal get hard when you pump it? If thats the case then you need to bleed your system. If you are using a pressure bleeder and keep getting the same results, try this method, it is the only way I can get a good bleed with a pressure bleeder. Pump bleeder up to 20-25 psi. Crack first bleeder valve, go to brake pedal and pump the brake pedal very slowly 1/2 in. Do this about 6-8 times per bleeder. I had an issue getting a hard pedal and after talking to about every tech in the GT3 Cup Paddock one long time tech taught me this method, it has worked for me ever since.
If that doesn't solve your problem then it sounds like you need some new brake pads, which we would gladly help you with!!
--Aaron
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#23
Nordschleife Master
Or... the OP comes from cars with over assisted brakes and notices the lack of assistance.