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.1 tip vs .2 PDK

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Old Nov 27, 2021 | 08:51 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by JamesBaxter
Yes, sport mode is not what I expected coming from an m235i. Perhaps because that’s all electronic, sport mode in that car tightened up the steering and how the car shifted. In this car, sport mode is about how high the car revs before shifting and doesn’t use 7th gear. I hardly use it whereas in my BMW I was in sport mode 90% of the time.
I might be wrong but I think its only in sport+ mode that 7th gear isn't used.
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Old Nov 27, 2021 | 09:35 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Optionman1
I might be wrong but I think its only in sport+ mode that 7th gear isn't used.
That's correct. Sports+ was intended for track use. The rpms increase to near redline before an upshift will occur. And max speed is reached in 6th (7th being an overdrive) so Porsche engineers didn't want you getting into 7th by mistake.
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Old Nov 27, 2021 | 09:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Hatzenbach
2... i now have a PDK cooler
I always thought there was a factory PDK cooler. Can you please expand on what type of cooler you added or replaced the factory one with?
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Old Nov 27, 2021 | 09:55 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Wayne Smith
By 2011 Porsche included the center radiator as standard on PDK cars. Heat is the enemy of electronics.

Can you post details on the cooler? Parts, location installation requirements, and anything else? Thanks in advance.
BGB-Motorsports makes a PDK cooler for the 987 Cayman, that my shop adopted to fit the 997.2, but I no longer see it on their web-page.
It is *NOT* plug & play as something that fits a Cayman not necessarily fits a 911

Here are two threads where I wrote about it:
https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...mission-5.html post #72
https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...g-options.html post #5

The pump is very loud and you definitely don't want it running if you're not on the track.
I built a small box with an Arduino that only activates the pump when I'm in Sports Plus, well and so far so good ...


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Old Nov 28, 2021 | 10:50 AM
  #20  
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Thanks everyone! Armed with this my search will narrow down to the .2 w/PDK and I won't worry too much about miles. As I mentioned above, the one I did get a chance to drive had more than 150k miles on it, and if there were signs of age in the feel or performance (or look and condition), it was too subtle for me to notice.

Am I reading correctly in other threads that bore scoring issues had dropped off by the time the .2 rolled out?
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Old Nov 28, 2021 | 12:32 PM
  #21  
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Though much less of an issue, the DFI 9a1 engine in the 997.2 can and do experience bore scoring. I own one such example but I acquired it post engine rebuild. Treat your engine right and it should treat you right. Constantly take it to redline or even close before letting oil temp come up to operating temps and you might find its not a good move in the long run.

Will bore scoring frequency increase as they get older, only time will tell.
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Old Nov 28, 2021 | 12:55 PM
  #22  
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I assume a reputable PPI can inspect for this?
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Old Nov 28, 2021 | 01:45 PM
  #23  
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I know a proper bore scoping via the sump is the recommended method for 996 models and I assume the same is true for 997.2 models. Just scoping via spark plugs wont reveal what really needs to be seen.
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Old Nov 28, 2021 | 02:33 PM
  #24  
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Regarding bore scoring and .2 motor reliability "in general" from my perspective ...

The 9A1 is a closed deck design. This is a complete redesign from the M9x motors. It's like comparing apples with oranges.

Engine rebuilders tell one story. Published problems seem to tell another story. Baz (Hartech in the UK) tells us the 9A1 isn't perfect (what is?) but is pretty close to perfect. Jake Raby tore a new 9A1 apart when they first arrived and found things that go beyond normal security clearance levels. Jake talks of modifications to the 9A1. I suspect these apply to the piston material and cylinder lining (and probably more), but I'm only guessing.

Bore scoring reports that I've seen are one ... Optionman1, who was lucky enough to get Baz's car after it had been repaired by Jake.

Proper warm up is important to avoid a different problem ... cold seizure. This is a result of the closed deck design and large thermal mass at the lower end of the cylinders. How much of a problem is this? Baz is about the only person reporting on this. If you buy from a private party ask them to drive you around the area and watch how he handles the car and how he talks about it. If he knows enough to drive it properly he will explain why he is driving the way he is (very gently) until the oil temperature stabilizes. If he floors the throttle and shows off the speed while still warming up you might consider a pass on the car.

The 9A1 also has a different coating on the cylinders. Environmental concerns have forced engineers to take proven designs and change them. The 9A1 coating seems to be holding up pretty well.

The 9A1 uses direct injection (DFI). By all rights this the spray should compromise the lubrication on the cylinders and cause problems. Yet that doesn't seem to be the case.

Other things ...

Jake has reported concerns about chain guides and injectors.

Early cars reported HPFP (high pressure fuel pumps are required to inject into highly pressurized cylinders) failures. There is (or was) a recall on these that may assist in replacement should that be necessary.

Water pumps seem to be good (I'm still on my original at 145K miles).

LTTs (low temperature thermostats) aren't discussed for the closed deck design although some (Petza) might debate this.

The AOS seems to be robust.

Etc.

Despite all of the above the 9A1 motor does not seem to have problems of any statistical relevance. Good luck with your search.

Last edited by Wayne Smith; Nov 28, 2021 at 02:36 PM.
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Old Nov 28, 2021 | 05:50 PM
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@Wayne Smith I didn't realize my car was the only reported case of scoring in a 997.2. I will now consider it a unicorn and add $20k to the asking price should I ever sell it. In fact, since it had bore scoring AND PDK failure, that takes it to six figure territory LOL.




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Old Nov 28, 2021 | 10:21 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Optionman1
@Wayne Smith I didn't realize my car was the only reported case of scoring in a 997.2. I will now consider it a unicorn and add $20k to the asking price should I ever sell it. In fact, since it had bore scoring AND PDK failure, that takes it to six figure territory LOL.




With the 4.0 FSI build you may get your asking price!!!!
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Old Nov 28, 2021 | 10:32 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Wayne Smith
With the 4.0 FSI build you may get your asking price!!!!
The 4.0 is an insane beast and it hasn’t even seen a track. Turbo, who needs one! I already am going at “go directly to jail” speed with a NA engine
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Old Nov 29, 2021 | 03:12 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Ironman88
However, you may want to consider going with a 997.2 regardless, because it is just a better car. Far better.
The warranty will give you 100% peace of mind. It's not cheap, but it provides virtually total coverage for your car. It's transferrable if you decide to sell the car. Or, you can cancel the policy if you sell, and get reasonable value returned to you.

In summary - go with the better car and the FAR better transmission - the 997.2. The increased investment you make in that car will stay with the vehicle going forward.
Right on. I have two well documented PDK failures. First one on an -09 C4S and the second one on the current 2011 GTS. Wouldn't hesitate to buy another one. Better car in all aspects compared to the 997.1's. As you say though, as low as the PDK failure rate is, unless you have around $20K just sitting around, get Fidelity coverage for peace of mind. I paid just above $5K for a three year/36K mile platinum policy for both cars. Both policies obviously paid off nicely.

In retrospect though I may look into the Fidelity power train policy which I believe covers the engine and transmission which would include the PDK and is quiet a bit less expensive. Since I'm not worried in the least about the 997.2 engine which based on the lack of problems of any kind posted here and elsewhere seems just about indestructible I wish I could buy PDK coverage alone but I don't think that's an option.
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Old Nov 29, 2021 | 03:34 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Wayne Smith
Regarding reliability, a point of confusion for me is that it would seem most problems have occurred in cars using primarily Sport Mode. I can see this affecting mechanical parts (where there seem to be no failures), but electrical? Does Sport Mode create enough extra heat in the transmission to accelerate electrical failure? I don't see it.
Possibly. I'm never in normal mode. Sport/auto getting the oil up to temperature and then manual/sport plus mode. No abuse and no track time but this is how both cars were driven prior to the two PDK failures I've referred to. That said though, sport in auto mode shifts around 3,000 rpm for warmup and I'm certainly not anywhere near shifting at redline when in manual sport plus mode. Can't drive like that in the city where I spend most of my time. I just like the crispier quicker shifts in sport plus and in manual mode it gets closer to a pure manual.
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Old Nov 29, 2021 | 06:59 PM
  #30  
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I'm going to put this one down as One that Got Away: https://www.pcarmarket.com/auction/2...1-cabriolet-2/

Unless I'm missing something, that seemed like an encouraging price.
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