.1 tip vs .2 PDK
Yes, sport mode is not what I expected coming from an m235i. Perhaps because that’s all electronic, sport mode in that car tightened up the steering and how the car shifted. In this car, sport mode is about how high the car revs before shifting and doesn’t use 7th gear. I hardly use it whereas in my BMW I was in sport mode 90% of the time.
That's correct. Sports+ was intended for track use. The rpms increase to near redline before an upshift will occur. And max speed is reached in 6th (7th being an overdrive) so Porsche engineers didn't want you getting into 7th by mistake.
It is *NOT* plug & play as something that fits a Cayman not necessarily fits a 911
Here are two threads where I wrote about it:
https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...mission-5.html post #72
https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...g-options.html post #5
The pump is very loud and you definitely don't want it running if you're not on the track.
I built a small box with an Arduino that only activates the pump when I'm in Sports Plus, well and so far so good ...
Thanks everyone! Armed with this my search will narrow down to the .2 w/PDK and I won't worry too much about miles. As I mentioned above, the one I did get a chance to drive had more than 150k miles on it, and if there were signs of age in the feel or performance (or look and condition), it was too subtle for me to notice.
Am I reading correctly in other threads that bore scoring issues had dropped off by the time the .2 rolled out?
Am I reading correctly in other threads that bore scoring issues had dropped off by the time the .2 rolled out?
Though much less of an issue, the DFI 9a1 engine in the 997.2 can and do experience bore scoring. I own one such example but I acquired it post engine rebuild. Treat your engine right and it should treat you right. Constantly take it to redline or even close before letting oil temp come up to operating temps and you might find its not a good move in the long run.
Will bore scoring frequency increase as they get older, only time will tell.
Will bore scoring frequency increase as they get older, only time will tell.
I know a proper bore scoping via the sump is the recommended method for 996 models and I assume the same is true for 997.2 models. Just scoping via spark plugs wont reveal what really needs to be seen.
Regarding bore scoring and .2 motor reliability "in general" from my perspective ...
The 9A1 is a closed deck design. This is a complete redesign from the M9x motors. It's like comparing apples with oranges.
Engine rebuilders tell one story. Published problems seem to tell another story. Baz (Hartech in the UK) tells us the 9A1 isn't perfect (what is?) but is pretty close to perfect. Jake Raby tore a new 9A1 apart when they first arrived and found things that go beyond normal security clearance levels. Jake talks of modifications to the 9A1. I suspect these apply to the piston material and cylinder lining (and probably more), but I'm only guessing.
Bore scoring reports that I've seen are one ... Optionman1, who was lucky enough to get Baz's car after it had been repaired by Jake.
Proper warm up is important to avoid a different problem ... cold seizure. This is a result of the closed deck design and large thermal mass at the lower end of the cylinders. How much of a problem is this? Baz is about the only person reporting on this. If you buy from a private party ask them to drive you around the area and watch how he handles the car and how he talks about it. If he knows enough to drive it properly he will explain why he is driving the way he is (very gently) until the oil temperature stabilizes. If he floors the throttle and shows off the speed while still warming up you might consider a pass on the car.
The 9A1 also has a different coating on the cylinders. Environmental concerns have forced engineers to take proven designs and change them. The 9A1 coating seems to be holding up pretty well.
The 9A1 uses direct injection (DFI). By all rights this the spray should compromise the lubrication on the cylinders and cause problems. Yet that doesn't seem to be the case.
Other things ...
Jake has reported concerns about chain guides and injectors.
Early cars reported HPFP (high pressure fuel pumps are required to inject into highly pressurized cylinders) failures. There is (or was) a recall on these that may assist in replacement should that be necessary.
Water pumps seem to be good (I'm still on my original at 145K miles).
LTTs (low temperature thermostats) aren't discussed for the closed deck design although some (Petza) might debate this.
The AOS seems to be robust.
Etc.
Despite all of the above the 9A1 motor does not seem to have problems of any statistical relevance. Good luck with your search.
The 9A1 is a closed deck design. This is a complete redesign from the M9x motors. It's like comparing apples with oranges.
Engine rebuilders tell one story. Published problems seem to tell another story. Baz (Hartech in the UK) tells us the 9A1 isn't perfect (what is?) but is pretty close to perfect. Jake Raby tore a new 9A1 apart when they first arrived and found things that go beyond normal security clearance levels. Jake talks of modifications to the 9A1. I suspect these apply to the piston material and cylinder lining (and probably more), but I'm only guessing.
Bore scoring reports that I've seen are one ... Optionman1, who was lucky enough to get Baz's car after it had been repaired by Jake.
Proper warm up is important to avoid a different problem ... cold seizure. This is a result of the closed deck design and large thermal mass at the lower end of the cylinders. How much of a problem is this? Baz is about the only person reporting on this. If you buy from a private party ask them to drive you around the area and watch how he handles the car and how he talks about it. If he knows enough to drive it properly he will explain why he is driving the way he is (very gently) until the oil temperature stabilizes. If he floors the throttle and shows off the speed while still warming up you might consider a pass on the car.
The 9A1 also has a different coating on the cylinders. Environmental concerns have forced engineers to take proven designs and change them. The 9A1 coating seems to be holding up pretty well.
The 9A1 uses direct injection (DFI). By all rights this the spray should compromise the lubrication on the cylinders and cause problems. Yet that doesn't seem to be the case.
Other things ...
Jake has reported concerns about chain guides and injectors.
Early cars reported HPFP (high pressure fuel pumps are required to inject into highly pressurized cylinders) failures. There is (or was) a recall on these that may assist in replacement should that be necessary.
Water pumps seem to be good (I'm still on my original at 145K miles).
LTTs (low temperature thermostats) aren't discussed for the closed deck design although some (Petza) might debate this.
The AOS seems to be robust.
Etc.
Despite all of the above the 9A1 motor does not seem to have problems of any statistical relevance. Good luck with your search.
Last edited by Wayne Smith; Nov 28, 2021 at 02:36 PM.
@Wayne Smith I didn't realize my car was the only reported case of scoring in a 997.2. I will now consider it a unicorn and add $20k to the asking price should I ever sell it. In fact, since it had bore scoring AND PDK failure, that takes it to six figure territory LOL.
@Wayne Smith I didn't realize my car was the only reported case of scoring in a 997.2. I will now consider it a unicorn and add $20k to the asking price should I ever sell it. In fact, since it had bore scoring AND PDK failure, that takes it to six figure territory LOL.
However, you may want to consider going with a 997.2 regardless, because it is just a better car. Far better.
The warranty will give you 100% peace of mind. It's not cheap, but it provides virtually total coverage for your car. It's transferrable if you decide to sell the car. Or, you can cancel the policy if you sell, and get reasonable value returned to you.
In summary - go with the better car and the FAR better transmission - the 997.2. The increased investment you make in that car will stay with the vehicle going forward.
The warranty will give you 100% peace of mind. It's not cheap, but it provides virtually total coverage for your car. It's transferrable if you decide to sell the car. Or, you can cancel the policy if you sell, and get reasonable value returned to you.
In summary - go with the better car and the FAR better transmission - the 997.2. The increased investment you make in that car will stay with the vehicle going forward.
In retrospect though I may look into the Fidelity power train policy which I believe covers the engine and transmission which would include the PDK and is quiet a bit less expensive. Since I'm not worried in the least about the 997.2 engine which based on the lack of problems of any kind posted here and elsewhere seems just about indestructible I wish I could buy PDK coverage alone but I don't think that's an option.
Regarding reliability, a point of confusion for me is that it would seem most problems have occurred in cars using primarily Sport Mode. I can see this affecting mechanical parts (where there seem to be no failures), but electrical? Does Sport Mode create enough extra heat in the transmission to accelerate electrical failure? I don't see it.
I'm going to put this one down as One that Got Away: https://www.pcarmarket.com/auction/2...1-cabriolet-2/
Unless I'm missing something, that seemed like an encouraging price.
Unless I'm missing something, that seemed like an encouraging price.





