997 at 275

Hi All!

I have a 997.1 C4S PASM that I bought a set of B16's last year, never installed and ready to pop them in. I am no stranger to mechanical work and for my skill level, tools and equipment, have everything I need, EXCEPT for knowledge of set up. I have scanned around here as well as on line and not found what I need. I might be a bit lazy not to pursue information out there but ask members here some advise. I also would like to replace the 70K upper mounts. The previous owner ( my neighbor) had someone install Eibach springs, which improved the cars stance however on some back road studder bumpers, well let's say I am glad I have a soft top for the top of my head. Rear left strut is wasted, bouncy ride.

I had a friend plasma table cut a set of mounts, then I welded on a base, then installed a shoe from cut up five gallon buckets on them, greased them so I I can scale with the wheels off without influencing the scale. A bit fancy for a "street car" but what the hell! The questions are:

I have access to a set of digital scales from my buddy...do I simply get the weights of the car stock on each corner and set the car to that weight, then as a base point adjust the ride from there? I am street driving most all the time, but going to do a little Lime Rock track time this year. I am concerned with street driving.

The alignment will be stock based, so what brand upper mount is suggested? I was going to stick with stock, rubber type rather than ball and socket type. Opinions?

What starting point for adjustments?

Thank You

Petza914

For ride height and balance, you want to cross corner balance the car with the equivalent of your weight in the driver's seat, so the sum of the LF and RR weights should be as close as possible to the sum of the RF & LR weight. You also want about 1 degree for rear to front forward rake when you're all done (you can put a digital level on the metal door sill with the door open (not the trim door sill).

For the suspension to work right, you should have 1 or 2 fingers of space between the top of the front tire and the fender. If you drop it much lower than that it looks really cool (actually it doesn't) but you limit the available suspension travel.

I would also recommend putting thrust bearings between the spring perch and spring at the front of the car. This lets the springs in the front rotate a little bit when you turn the wheels. Otherwise, they kind of wind up tension and pop when they release, which doesn't sound good even though it's fine.

ejabour

As far as the sequence, you do rough ride height first then corner weights.

This is a pretty good article:
https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/ar...orner-weights/