Motive Bleeder Not Working?
#1
Motive Bleeder Not Working?
I purchased a motive bleeder to bleed my brakes before a track event. I do not think it is working right. It is pressured up to 25 psi and this is the flow. Can somebody confirm this is correct?
#3
That moving pretty quickly. 25 PSI is a lot; you don’t want to blow any seals. Generally I think 15 or so is recommended.
#4
Really? Wow at that rate it would take an hour to bleed a corner. Okay maybe not an hour, but quite a bit longer than pumping the brakes. I am not that patient of a person. I think I will just have my son pump the brakes and be done in like 3 minutes or maybe I will just keep it and do other things while I bleed my brakes.
Last edited by doclouie; 03-19-2021 at 11:09 PM.
#5
I use 15 psi. Flow is usually pretty slow, but steady. You can also try opening the bleeder screw a bit further. Don't go so far that fluid starts coming out around the threads instead of out the center of the bleed screw.
#6
I did 2L of fluid through my 997 at all four corners inside of 30 minutes at 10 psi. What in the heck do you mean it'd take an hour? I think you're vastly overestimating how much fluid you need to run through the system...
Last edited by NC997.2S; 03-19-2021 at 10:57 PM.
#7
It just seems really slow coming out. I was expecting something like you see when someone pushes the brake pedal. Thanks for confirming this is normal. Brakes are perfect now for COTA next week.
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#10
Failure to fully clean after use can cause havoc. Fortunately I always put it in a garbage bag before using it. It filled the bag with brake fluid. Without the bag that second use would have been a disaster.
I've used a replacement unit dry since that time but recently converted to a mighty vac to avoids the hassles.
I've used a replacement unit dry since that time but recently converted to a mighty vac to avoids the hassles.
#11
Other problems with the “wet” (ie filling the tank) method. If the cap doesn’t have a good seal on the reservoir, it will overflow it. I’ve also heard of the connectors on the hose failing, spraying brake fluid everywhere. Dry is definitely the way to go, you just need to be careful about running it empty.
To avoid that, measure how much old fluid you pump out of the reservoir prior to refilling with fresh fluid for bleeding (usually ~ 8oz). Then use or mark a graduated bleeding cup so you always know how much you’ve drawn out and when it’s time to refill. I’ve found it takes ~ 1 1/2 16oz bottles for a good bleed, so you’ve only got to refill the reservoir 2-3 times. And get their “pro” cap model that allows you to unscrew the cap without having to rotate the entire device when screwing it on/off the reservoir.
To avoid that, measure how much old fluid you pump out of the reservoir prior to refilling with fresh fluid for bleeding (usually ~ 8oz). Then use or mark a graduated bleeding cup so you always know how much you’ve drawn out and when it’s time to refill. I’ve found it takes ~ 1 1/2 16oz bottles for a good bleed, so you’ve only got to refill the reservoir 2-3 times. And get their “pro” cap model that allows you to unscrew the cap without having to rotate the entire device when screwing it on/off the reservoir.
#13
I use it both ways. If doing just a single car I use it dry to avoid the hassle of the clean up. If doing a bunch of cars in a row I put in fluid and just go from car to car to car.
I tried to use it wet in a 928 recently and the fluid level sensor isn't air tight. Yep, prssurowzed the fluid right out of the reservoir and down the inner fender wall. That fender is really clean now.
Dry is definitely the less disastrous way to use it, just have to be careful not to run dry.
I tried to use it wet in a 928 recently and the fluid level sensor isn't air tight. Yep, prssurowzed the fluid right out of the reservoir and down the inner fender wall. That fender is really clean now.
Dry is definitely the less disastrous way to use it, just have to be careful not to run dry.