997.2 sitting idle for 1 year - help with jump/inspection codes - stale gas.
#1
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Forgive the cross post from regional forum. - I'd appreciate any help or insights.
I've been away from home (NYC) for a year and am returning and need to get my 997.2 up and running again, inspected and re-registered, and its proving to be problematic. I left home on 2 hours notice due to illness in family and couldn't prep my Targa 4S with battery tender, etc. Car is in heated garage and I have only 1 vehicle.
I did have someone start the car one or twice, but then subsequently battery died and the key got locked in ignition. My plan is to use a cigarette lighter charger/ jumper to get enough power to car to unlock hood and remove key. I've read here that this can work. I may not be able to get to passenger side wheel well.
Then I will use the terminals to jump from the (lithium ion battery jumper - any suggestions for amp hours?) or I can call jump service.
I spoke to inspection garage that is 1 block away from me (since I will be driving with no inspection and lapsed reg., but since it's only 1 block I felt I should be okay.). Inspection mechanic stated that I will not pass inspection since it will have a code from jumped battery and that I need to drive about 80 miles to clear code. Is this true? Can I use cann scanner to clear code before inspection?
The other issue with inspection is that they said they have to turn off vehicle, and I'm not sure it will turn start due to weak battery. I was hoping to drive to interstate in queens and have them replace battery, but perhaps I need to have inspection shop replace battery, which I imagine will cost more plus install and may not use as good a battery.
Once vehicle is inspected, then I can go on DMV website and renew reg.
I did ask someone to add extra pressure to tires, but I had a slow leak in 1 tire, so I imagine I'll have flat spots on my Micheline all season sport tires, which I'm hoping will work themselves out after driving. Any experience with this?
I was thinking of draining out gas through the Schrader valve Ive read about (using car's gas pump to pump it out), but a Porsche shop I've used thought gas would be okay and suggested I just add Liqui Molly gas treatment, then fill up tank with fresh gas.
Any other thoughts? Thanks in advance.
I've been away from home (NYC) for a year and am returning and need to get my 997.2 up and running again, inspected and re-registered, and its proving to be problematic. I left home on 2 hours notice due to illness in family and couldn't prep my Targa 4S with battery tender, etc. Car is in heated garage and I have only 1 vehicle.
I did have someone start the car one or twice, but then subsequently battery died and the key got locked in ignition. My plan is to use a cigarette lighter charger/ jumper to get enough power to car to unlock hood and remove key. I've read here that this can work. I may not be able to get to passenger side wheel well.
Then I will use the terminals to jump from the (lithium ion battery jumper - any suggestions for amp hours?) or I can call jump service.
I spoke to inspection garage that is 1 block away from me (since I will be driving with no inspection and lapsed reg., but since it's only 1 block I felt I should be okay.). Inspection mechanic stated that I will not pass inspection since it will have a code from jumped battery and that I need to drive about 80 miles to clear code. Is this true? Can I use cann scanner to clear code before inspection?
The other issue with inspection is that they said they have to turn off vehicle, and I'm not sure it will turn start due to weak battery. I was hoping to drive to interstate in queens and have them replace battery, but perhaps I need to have inspection shop replace battery, which I imagine will cost more plus install and may not use as good a battery.
Once vehicle is inspected, then I can go on DMV website and renew reg.
I did ask someone to add extra pressure to tires, but I had a slow leak in 1 tire, so I imagine I'll have flat spots on my Micheline all season sport tires, which I'm hoping will work themselves out after driving. Any experience with this?
I was thinking of draining out gas through the Schrader valve Ive read about (using car's gas pump to pump it out), but a Porsche shop I've used thought gas would be okay and suggested I just add Liqui Molly gas treatment, then fill up tank with fresh gas.
Any other thoughts? Thanks in advance.
#2
Rennlist Member
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Unlikely the jump pack will work. Take a cab or Uber to the Interstate store you mentioned and buy new battery and jumper cables if you don't already have them.
Then follow this advice https://rennlist.com/forums/996-forum/1241744-should -i-expect-lithium-boost-pack-to-open-hood.html.
Then follow this advice https://rennlist.com/forums/996-forum/1241744-should -i-expect-lithium-boost-pack-to-open-hood.html.
#3
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You will have trouble passing NY inspection if you have just had service or battery was dead for a long time. I’ve had to drive round 80 miles and come back to pass before. As far as the battery issue, a tender isnt going to release the frunk. I tried emergency trunk release jump method (through the fuse box) but couldn’t get it to work and I had to just take the wheel off and pull the release cable. One year old gas is probably fine
#4
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Thanks for the replies. The wheel lock is in the frunk, so I can't get the wheel off.
There is power In garage if I run a long AC cord. Could trickle charging work to unlock frunk and release key?
I can't believe this is such a conundrum to get this working and it appears I have to drive several hours with no registration to be pass inspection so I can register?
There is power In garage if I run a long AC cord. Could trickle charging work to unlock frunk and release key?
I can't believe this is such a conundrum to get this working and it appears I have to drive several hours with no registration to be pass inspection so I can register?
#5
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Thanks for the replies. The wheel lock is in the frunk, so I can't get the wheel off.
There is power In garage if I run a long AC cord. Could trickle charging work to unlock frunk and release key?
I can't believe this is such a conundrum to get this working and it appears I have to drive several hours with no registration to be pass inspection so I can register?
There is power In garage if I run a long AC cord. Could trickle charging work to unlock frunk and release key?
I can't believe this is such a conundrum to get this working and it appears I have to drive several hours with no registration to be pass inspection so I can register?
2. a decent trickle charger will revive the battery enough to get it going. You may not need a new battery - mine has died twice (my fault x2) but is ok - the garage I took it to declined to change it. Get it checked by a garage before lashing out on a new one.
good luck.
Rich
#6
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I replaced my battery and then went to get the emission tested, and failed. A drive cycle is what is needed to reset the computer for the car to pass emissions...
Start engine, let idle for approx. 2 min, 10 secs.
Accelerate to 20-30 MPH, Maintain steady speed for approx 3 min, 15 secs.
Accelerate to 40-60 MPH, Maintain steady speed for approx 15 mins.
Decelerate and come to a stop. Then:
Idle in Neutral for 5 mins. (manual trans.)
Idle in Drive for 5 mins. (PDK trans.)
During the drive cycle, do not exceed 3,000 rpm or 60 mph.
Start engine, let idle for approx. 2 min, 10 secs.
Accelerate to 20-30 MPH, Maintain steady speed for approx 3 min, 15 secs.
Accelerate to 40-60 MPH, Maintain steady speed for approx 15 mins.
Decelerate and come to a stop. Then:
Idle in Neutral for 5 mins. (manual trans.)
Idle in Drive for 5 mins. (PDK trans.)
During the drive cycle, do not exceed 3,000 rpm or 60 mph.
#7
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It’s a poor design by the engineers for not having a manual trunk release (the front wheel well pull cable is technically a manual release, but the steps you have to go through are just unnecessarily laborious).
if I were you I’d try jumper cables via the fuse box method to open the frunk as your next step.
I tired with a jump box, car battery, different grounds and just couldn’t get enough juice for the solinoid to open the frunk. You also have to use the remote button while attempting this not the frunk release button next to the seat.
if I were you I’d try jumper cables via the fuse box method to open the frunk as your next step.
I tired with a jump box, car battery, different grounds and just couldn’t get enough juice for the solinoid to open the frunk. You also have to use the remote button while attempting this not the frunk release button next to the seat.
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#8
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Thanks all for the great info. I didn't realize the fuse box jump was so simple. I'm hoping that the jump service that comes (included in my insurance) is willing to hook to fuse box so we can open hood for jump. Then I'll just drive immediately to a get a battery replaced and then do the cycle process as outlined above by Canyon.
Last edited by Vape NYC; 03-18-2021 at 12:34 AM.
#9
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Attach a 12 vdc source at the fuse box and use the key fob. Follow the Porsche supplied instructions carefully.
I see no way that the release cable on the 997.2 can function. Refer to recent threads regarding frunk release. Fix the poorly designed frunk release ASAP to avoid future hassles.
Your battery is probably compromised but give it a chance before replacing it.
Sometimes you lose the CEL codes and sometimes you don't. If you have an OBD II reader you can check once you get things running. If you lose them go out for a hundred mile drive. This will not only reset the codes but also cycle your stale gas and help you remember why you love your car.
I see no way that the release cable on the 997.2 can function. Refer to recent threads regarding frunk release. Fix the poorly designed frunk release ASAP to avoid future hassles.
Your battery is probably compromised but give it a chance before replacing it.
Sometimes you lose the CEL codes and sometimes you don't. If you have an OBD II reader you can check once you get things running. If you lose them go out for a hundred mile drive. This will not only reset the codes but also cycle your stale gas and help you remember why you love your car.
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8x57IRS (03-19-2021)
#10
Instructor
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Not that serious to drive in ny with expired inspection- its like a $65 ticket. As for tag, you can pay for renewal registration online and print an immediate 10 day temp tag until sticker comes in the mail. Even if stopped, its just a citation that can be dismissed once you show proof of renewal (within a few days). Most important thing is that your insurance is current and valid above all else.
Get renewal paid, jump start car, follow the drive cycle routine mentioned in this thread and you will be good to go for inspection.
Get renewal paid, jump start car, follow the drive cycle routine mentioned in this thread and you will be good to go for inspection.
#11
Rennlist Member
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Once you get it opened, I’d direct your attention to post # 20 here:
https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...isaster-2.html
https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...isaster-2.html
Last edited by TerrestrialFlyte; 03-22-2021 at 08:14 AM.
#12
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I wouldn’t worry about the fuel.
#13
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I replaced my battery and then went to get the emission tested, and failed. A drive cycle is what is needed to reset the computer for the car to pass emissions...
Start engine, let idle for approx. 2 min, 10 secs.
Accelerate to 20-30 MPH, Maintain steady speed for approx 3 min, 15 secs.
Accelerate to 40-60 MPH, Maintain steady speed for approx 15 mins.
Decelerate and come to a stop. Then:
Idle in Neutral for 5 mins. (manual trans.)
Idle in Drive for 5 mins. (PDK trans.)
During the drive cycle, do not exceed 3,000 rpm or 60 mph.
Start engine, let idle for approx. 2 min, 10 secs.
Accelerate to 20-30 MPH, Maintain steady speed for approx 3 min, 15 secs.
Accelerate to 40-60 MPH, Maintain steady speed for approx 15 mins.
Decelerate and come to a stop. Then:
Idle in Neutral for 5 mins. (manual trans.)
Idle in Drive for 5 mins. (PDK trans.)
During the drive cycle, do not exceed 3,000 rpm or 60 mph.
I tried these steps several times and all systems were ready except EGR. I asked the dealer how they set the EGR and they drive the 911 at 68mph on cruse control.
Here is my post on the subject:
This morning I duct-taped my new OBDII reader to my windscreen and drove to CA Highway 101 south of San Jose. Nice and flat and smooth flowing traffic.
After 22 minutes on cruse control at 68 mph and under 3000 rpm, no breaking, the EGR changed to green. I had the AC off.
I now know that you do not need to keep 60 to get the the EGR to ready for a smog test and you can use cruse control.
This is nice to know, as driving under 60 on a freeway here, even in the right lane, is not the best of ideas.
I had done exactly this on Highway 280 below San Francisco, with no result, but it is very hilly and the perhaps the cruse control had to make too many throttle adjustments.
Good luck!