When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Very nice with the engineering breakdown as I follow your DIY on YT. There is a similar jacking procedure in the DIY section. Also I recommend jack pads but the wooden block works.
This is a very good discussion for safely jacking up one of these cars., (or any car). For those out there that have not raised a car before and would like to do you own work , follow this exactly. I mean exactly . Jack stands are the safest and most secure way to raise a car in your garage or in your level driveway, period. Engineer here also and have been under cars for 60+ years with thousands of successful " lets git her up in the air" exercises . Only one scary moment and that was with a "modern hydraulic device that piched out a rubber block on one side and the car fell (It was not with a jack and stands). My recommendations are in line with the Original Poster and that is to get 4 (or more) jackstands (not axle stands) and two flloor jacks. Ideally a good 2 1/2 or 3 ton aluminum jack and the second one can be a light 1 1/2 ton Harbor freight aluminum portable jack. The lowest setting for the stand can be an issue when raising the first side. Hockey pucks are great and the fancy ones with the aluminum "tee" fitiing for Porsche 997 is just ideal. One important note that was demonstrated but not discussed is paying attention to which way the jack rolls as it lifts up the car. The fact that the motion of the jack pad is an arc means that it moves back (or forward) at the same time as it goes up. Therefore place the jack perpendicular to the car. Watch the video at 1:04 and you will see the jack roll under the car as it goes up. Also look at 2:41 and note the positioning of the jack and the motion of the jack itself (watch the jack wheels). Knowing, seeing and understanding this principle will put you in the expert category of safe car raising. I have not and will never get under a car that is not setting on jackstands. This is a good "always rule".
Be safe out there!
This is a very good discussion for safely jacking up one of these cars., (or any car). For those out there that have not raised a car before and would like to do you own work , follow this exactly. I mean exactly . Jack stands are the safest and most secure way to raise a car in your garage or in your level driveway, period. Engineer here also and have been under cars for 60+ years with thousands of successful " lets git her up in the air" exercises . Only one scary moment and that was with a "modern hydraulic device that piched out a rubber block on one side and the car fell (It was not with a jack and stands). My recommendations are in line with the Original Poster and that is to get 4 (or more) jackstands (not axle stands) and two flloor jacks. Ideally a good 2 1/2 or 3 ton aluminum jack and the second one can be a light 1 1/2 ton Harbor freight aluminum portable jack. The lowest setting for the stand can be an issue when raising the first side. Hockey pucks are great and the fancy ones with the aluminum "tee" fitiing for Porsche 997 is just ideal. One important note that was demonstrated but not discussed is paying attention to which way the jack rolls as it lifts up the car. The fact that the motion of the jack pad is an arc means that it moves back (or forward) at the same time as it goes up. Therefore place the jack perpendicular to the car. Watch the video at 1:04 and you will see the jack roll under the car as it goes up. Also look at 2:41 and note the positioning of the jack and the motion of the jack itself (watch the jack wheels). Knowing, seeing and understanding this principle will put you in the expert category of safe car raising. I have not and will never get under a car that is not setting on jackstands. This is a good "always rule".
Be safe out there!
This is a very good discussion for safely jacking up one of these cars., (or any car). For those out there that have not raised a car before and would like to do you own work , follow this exactly. I mean exactly . Jack stands are the safest and most secure way to raise a car in your garage or in your level driveway, period. Engineer here also and have been under cars for 60+ years with thousands of successful " lets git her up in the air" exercises . Only one scary moment and that was with a "modern hydraulic device that piched out a rubber block on one side and the car fell (It was not with a jack and stands). My recommendations are in line with the Original Poster and that is to get 4 (or more) jackstands (not axle stands) and two flloor jacks. Ideally a good 2 1/2 or 3 ton aluminum jack and the second one can be a light 1 1/2 ton Harbor freight aluminum portable jack. The lowest setting for the stand can be an issue when raising the first side. Hockey pucks are great and the fancy ones with the aluminum "tee" fitiing for Porsche 997 is just ideal. One important note that was demonstrated but not discussed is paying attention to which way the jack rolls as it lifts up the car. The fact that the motion of the jack pad is an arc means that it moves back (or forward) at the same time as it goes up. Therefore place the jack perpendicular to the car. Watch the video at 1:04 and you will see the jack roll under the car as it goes up. Also look at 2:41 and note the positioning of the jack and the motion of the jack itself (watch the jack wheels). Knowing, seeing and understanding this principle will put you in the expert category of safe car raising. I have not and will never get under a car that is not setting on jackstands. This is a good "always rule".
Be safe out there!
Thanks to OP for the video and for this additional commentary.
As someone that’s never put a car on jack-stands and has had a relative die from a car falling on him this is invaluable. Honestly it’s the biggest thing that makes me take pause before thinking about heading down the path of working on my own cars.
One question: what height does one put the Jack stands? Is a mechanics creeper a necessity?
Thanks "atallguy" (reply #6) for the lead in to an important part 2 of the subject "safely raising a car". Since the system of using a jack and jackstands has an inherent issue in that we are raising only one side at a time, we are tilting the car at an angle which actually moves the car sideways. In actual practice the "tilt angle" can be fairly large with out going into a dangerous situation. However I don't like lifting up the first side more than about 6 or 7 inches. ( 997 body pad is about 5 to 5 1/2 inches from ground) So I use the lowest setting on the stand. I like 12 inches for the stand as the clip on hockey puck adds another inch or so. The process gets much easier after the "first side lift". Going around to the otherside, you lift the car up to level and place the stands according to the very fine video above. This works good for wheel or brake work but if you want to get under the car to do anything, you have to go up higher. To do this just go above "level" when raising side 2 ( say 4 to 5 inches) so the car is tilted going the other way. Place the jackstands and go back to side 1 and raise it up to level and place the stands. This action of raising the car in increments is super safe but this is where you will find out that the "second" jack you bought was a really good idea. Visually think through this part. One theorem that is always true (hence being a theorem) is that the car is never high enough. You will learn this when you go to take off the undertray to get to about anything. You need to be able to not only slide under the car but you need to roll over on your shoulder because the wrench you need to get to is over there! I have never used a creeper in my life as it only takes up 3 to 4 inches, but that is a big number when using jackstands. Also the wheels on a creeper will find that wrench and stop you in your tracks so now you are stuck. I find that shimmying on your back is much easier even if you have been doing it for 60 years (on a 74 year old back). Others will have different opinions, but mine is no, you do not need or want a creeper. You do want that second jack. As to equipment, the important elements are for a jack is a low profile and a high lift. For stands, the lowest setting is the important one. They all go up high enough for 997 type work.
Watch the video again and again and think about what you would do to raise the car higher.
Go slow, be safe.
Thanks "atallguy" (reply #6) for the lead in to an important part 2 of the subject "safely raising a car". Since the system of using a jack and jackstands has an inherent issue in that we are raising only one side at a time, we are tilting the car at an angle which actually moves the car sideways. In actual practice the "tilt angle" can be fairly large with out going into a dangerous situation. However I don't like lifting up the first side more than about 6 or 7 inches. ( 997 body pad is about 5 to 5 1/2 inches from ground) So I use the lowest setting on the stand. I like 12 inches for the stand as the clip on hockey puck adds another inch or so. The process gets much easier after the "first side lift". Going around to the otherside, you lift the car up to level and place the stands according to the very fine video above. This works good for wheel or brake work but if you want to get under the car to do anything, you have to go up higher. To do this just go above "level" when raising side 2 ( say 4 to 5 inches) so the car is tilted going the other way. Place the jackstands and go back to side 1 and raise it up to level and place the stands. This action of raising the car in increments is super safe but this is where you will find out that the "second" jack you bought was a really good idea. Visually think through this part. One theorem that is always true (hence being a theorem) is that the car is never high enough. You will learn this when you go to take off the undertray to get to about anything. You need to be able to not only slide under the car but you need to roll over on your shoulder because the wrench you need to get to is over there! I have never used a creeper in my life as it only takes up 3 to 4 inches, but that is a big number when using jackstands. Also the wheels on a creeper will find that wrench and stop you in your tracks so now you are stuck. I find that shimmying on your back is much easier even if you have been doing it for 60 years (on a 74 year old back). Others will have different opinions, but mine is no, you do not need or want a creeper. You do want that second jack. As to equipment, the important elements are for a jack is a low profile and a high lift. For stands, the lowest setting is the important one. They all go up high enough for 997 type work.
Watch the video again and again and think about what you would do to raise the car higher.
Go slow, be safe.
Thank you very much @Floyd540 ! I really appreciated the advice and yes I can envision how the incremental lift would work. To clarify I’ve done work on vehicles—never anything more major than swapping out an alternator but when I get my 997 I want to be more involved in it as a hobby. That and there’s a huge difference between a 1500 repair bill and a 4k one.
This is a very good discussion for safely jacking up one of these cars., (or any car). For those out there that have not raised a car before and would like to do you own work , follow this exactly. I mean exactly . Jack stands are the safest and most secure way to raise a car in your garage or in your level driveway, period. Engineer here also and have been under cars for 60+ years with thousands of successful " lets git her up in the air" exercises . Only one scary moment and that was with a "modern hydraulic device that piched out a rubber block on one side and the car fell (It was not with a jack and stands). My recommendations are in line with the Original Poster and that is to get 4 (or more) jackstands (not axle stands) and two flloor jacks. Ideally a good 2 1/2 or 3 ton aluminum jack and the second one can be a light 1 1/2 ton Harbor freight aluminum portable jack. The lowest setting for the stand can be an issue when raising the first side. Hockey pucks are great and the fancy ones with the aluminum "tee" fitiing for Porsche 997 is just ideal. One important note that was demonstrated but not discussed is paying attention to which way the jack rolls as it lifts up the car. The fact that the motion of the jack pad is an arc means that it moves back (or forward) at the same time as it goes up. Therefore place the jack perpendicular to the car. Watch the video at 1:04 and you will see the jack roll under the car as it goes up. Also look at 2:41 and note the positioning of the jack and the motion of the jack itself (watch the jack wheels). Knowing, seeing and understanding this principle will put you in the expert category of safe car raising. I have not and will never get under a car that is not setting on jackstands. This is a good "always rule".
Be safe out there!
Just one more reason to buy a Quick Jack as soon as you can afford one. Hydraulic lift with mechanical locks.
Carefully re-reading reply #3 above may prove enlightening to some. For others, not so much.
The vertical load transmitted from the vehicle directly through the properly placed jack stand will always provide the most stable and therefore safest method for avoiding a "gravity event" .
Carefully re-reading reply #3 above may prove enlightening to some. For others, not so much.
The vertical load transmitted from the vehicle directly through the properly placed jack stand will always provide the most stable and therefore safest method for avoiding a "gravity event" .
Thank you for your comment. But I am an engineer too. If one takes the time to research the mechanical lock system on the Quick Jack and understand its distribution of weight, you will understand its advantages over jack stands. It is at least an equivalent (if not better) than jack stands in safety. The mechanical lock system is the safety control. The QJ system is especially preferable when doing a DIY where you must lift and lower the car repeatedly and successively which is a PITA with a jack and jack stands. It is just as safe. The cost of the high quality jack stands is > 50% of the QJ. You should research it before you make a decision. Maybe it is not for you, but it was great for my application.
Carefully re-reading reply #3 above may prove enlightening to some. For others, not so much.
The vertical load transmitted from the vehicle directly through the properly placed jack stand will always provide the most stable and therefore safest method for avoiding a "gravity event" .
Thank you for your comment. But I am an engineer too. If one takes the time to research the mechanical lock system on the Quick Jack and understand its distribution of weight, you will understand its advantages over jack stands. It is at least an equivalent (if not better) than jack stands in safety. The mechanical lock system is the safety control. The QJ system is especially preferable when doing a DIY where you must lift and lower the car repeatedly and successively which is a PITA with a jack and jack stands. It is just as safe. The cost of the high quality jack stands is > 50% of the QJ. You should research it before you make a decision. Maybe it is not for you, but it was great for my application.
8x8" nailed and glued block stacks about 9" high. Hockey pucks at the front lift points.
Rock solid, plus wooden blocks stack nicely when stowing back in the shed.
Short 2"x1-1/2" timbers on top of blocks under rear subframe close to where arm attaches. Careful to avoid any moving bits. Under the rear arm attachment points on subframe.
Last edited by BLU997; 02-11-2021 at 02:48 AM.
Reason: found better picture
02-05-2021 | 03:42 PM
Complete DIY: How to Get 997 on 4 and 2 Jack Stands
