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Hey, while they have the trans separated, if you're still running the original IMS bearing that's larger and can't be replaced, while the transmission is currently separated from the engine, now is the time to pull the outer grease seal from it and install a new RMS with the multiple sealing ribs to extend the life of the IMS bearing.
Hey, while they have the trans separated, if you're still running the original IMS bearing that's larger and can't be replaced, while the transmission is currently separated from the engine, now is the time to pull the outer grease seal from it and install a new RMS with the multiple sealing ribs to extend the life of the IMS bearing.
My car has the LN IMS Retrofit. Callas found some oil seepage between the engine and transmission and said it's likely the crankshaft seal, which they will replace. Any idea if the LN IMS Retrofit still has an outer grease seal? I understand the LN IMS Upgrade is different since it includes a direct oil feed for lubrication.
My car has the LN IMS Retrofit. Callas found some oil seepage between the engine and transmission and said it's likely the crankshaft seal, which they will replace. Any idea if the LN IMS Retrofit still has an outer grease seal? I understand the LN IMS Upgrade is different since it includes a direct oil feed for lubrication.
No, you're good. Nothing further to do there. Do you know which LN bearing is in there? The regular one nedds to be replaced about every 70k miles. The IMS Solution is lifetime with no replacement interval.
I'm surprised there is another RMS leak since the shop (Valencia European Motorsports in Santa Clarita) who did the clutch and IMS 20k miles ago should have replaced the RMS while everything was apart.
So glad for you that this is getting addressed. I was hopeful that it was going to be some vacuum leaks and a failing electrical component (not something requiring an engine/tranny R&R).
A couple of questions:
- ..."flywheel issue: either too much torsional or axial play affecting crankshaft acceleration." Have they offered how a fly wheel gets to that state? Bad install, temperature affecting the metal's properties, mating surface thinning, bad part out of the box that didn't show its true colors until xxxx number of hours....
- Had this not been addressed, was the fly wheel issue a type that could have ended in catastrophic failure?
- What Automotive Diagnostic Oscilloscope are they using. There are several on the market that I have been looking at but there are multiple opinions as to which one's performance is both good and well supported.
Removed transmission and found lower spring clamp for air oil separator was not securing hose to oil drain. Once transmission was removed it was evident that some less than stellar work has been done on the induction system of this vehicle. One of the two clamps that secures the rubber coupler to the intake plenum sections is not even on the coupler (this was probably my fault - it's really tricky to get the rubber couplers seated perfectly) and a piece of PVC piping was used to plumb the motorsport air oil separator. (BR Racing installed the motorsport AOS) Marked clutch bolts and removed evenly 1/2 turn at a time, removed clutch. Measured flywheel max clearance angle of 10° when using LUK testing method. Maximum clearance angle specified by LUK is 6° Measured “rock” or side play at 0.6-0.7mm. Spec is 1.6mm. This specific measurement is within specification.
Transmission was removed noticed that lower clamp for air oil separator was not secured in correct position Once transmission was removed it was evident that some less than stellar work has been done on the induction system of this vehicle. One of the two clamps that secures the rubber coupler to the intake plenum sections is not even on the coupler and a piece of PVC piping was used to plumb the motorsport air oil separator Fairly new clutch assembly, oil leaking from front of engine source unclear unless flywheels removed Flywheel friction surface condition
Nothing really useful to contribute at this point but just want to say thanks for making all the information clear.
It seems like the flywheel is wobbling as it spins? Based on the o-scope graphs, the CPS is seeing some teeth are closer to the sensor and some are farther away. However, the wave "pattern" is cyclical so either the flywheel is wobbling "predictably" or the teeth are mangled.
Will you be having the connections to the AOS be done as well?
Nothing really useful to contribute at this point but just want to say thanks for making all the information clear.
It seems like the flywheel is wobbling as it spins? Based on the o-scope graphs, the CPS is seeing some teeth are closer to the sensor and some are farther away. However, the wave "pattern" is cyclical so either the flywheel is wobbling "predictably" or the teeth are mangled.
Will you be having the connections to the AOS be done as well?
No problem, I just hope my experience will help others diagnose this issue with less frustration.
I'm not sure exactly how to read the oscilloscope output, but my understanding is that the angle between the 2 flywheels when turned in opposite directions should be less than 6 degrees. In my case it was 10 degrees. Based on Callas' findings, the shop who replaced the clutch (Valencia European Motorsports in Socal) did a very sloppy job. They didn't replace some of the original components and now there is excessive wear on the clutch release bearing, fork, guide sleeve and pivot ball. I'm shelling out more $$$$ for Callas to replace everything. The oil leak at the IMS flange is probably also due to improper installation by Valencia, so that has to be replaced too. Total bill comes out to over $6000, assuming they don't find anything else.
I also emailed BRracing asking for a partial refund from the motorsport AOS installation. Back when I replaced my injectors I actually found a clamping tool lodged in my engine bay (see photo). It fell out and I couldn't identify where it came from exactly, but seeing the photo of the loose clamp on the back of the AOS makes me strongly suspect the BRracing tech left the tool clamped onto the AOS and forgot about it. Luckily no catastrophic damage resulted, but could have been bad if left unnoticed.
Wow... I have a huge headache. Callas did an amazing job with their diagnostics and repairs - replaced flywheel and clutch release components, resealed the leaking IMS flange, reseated the loose AOS/intake clamps. Said they put everything back together, cleared the faults and went for a 6 mile test drive. No issues - idle, response and power are good. No fault codes, all engine roughness values less than 1. No more hesitation.
So I got the car back yesterday. Went for a long drive this morning and noticed the same low rpm hesitation as before. Checked engine roughness values and it's back up to 1.5-2 on cylinders 1/3/5/6. No fault codes have been logged yet but I believe it's just a matter of time. All of the previous symptoms are still present. Long term fuel trims at idle are 0.98 bank 1, 1.03 bank 2. I'm running out of money and patience, and really don't want to spend another week in LA while Callas looks into it further (assuming they are willing to without charging me extra).
Something from Callas' initial diagnosis that was never addressed: "Monitored oxygen sensor signals and there was a notice difference between post cat oxygen sensor voltages at idle. Aftermarket center section has X fairly close to post-cat o2 sensors which may have some affect but issue unlikely as problem only occurs at part throttle." When I first bought the car I had stock cats swapped on to pass smog. Logged misfires on 1/3/5 with the stock cats, so I don't think the Fabspeed x-pipe is causing the misfire. Maybe it's the O2 sensors after all? Not sure how to check this without spending $$$ to replace them - any suggestions?
Also is it possible that post-cat O2 sensors can affect the long term fuel trims?
Something from Callas' initial diagnosis that was never addressed: "Monitored oxygen sensor signals and there was a notice difference between post cat oxygen sensor voltages at idle. Aftermarket center section has X fairly close to post-cat o2 sensors which may have some affect but issue unlikely as problem only occurs at part throttle." When I first bought the car I had stock cats swapped on to pass smog. Logged misfires on 1/3/5 with the stock cats, so I don't think the Fabspeed x-pipe is causing the misfire. Maybe it's the O2 sensors after all? Not sure how to check this without spending $$$ to replace them - any suggestions?
Also is it possible that post-cat O2 sensors can affect the long term fuel trims?
Recommend you call Callas before you swap any parts out. The O2 sensor could be it Bet Callas can talk you through a few tests, if needed, since you have equipment that can pull data.
Wow... I have a huge headache. Callas did an amazing job with their diagnostics and repairs - replaced flywheel and clutch release components, resealed the leaking IMS flange, reseated the loose AOS/intake clamps. Said they put everything back together, cleared the faults and went for a 6 mile test drive. No issues - idle, response and power are good. No fault codes, all engine roughness values less than 1. No more hesitation.
So I got the car back yesterday. Went for a long drive this morning and noticed the same low rpm hesitation as before. Checked engine roughness values and it's back up to 1.5-2 on cylinders 1/3/5/6. No fault codes have been logged yet but I believe it's just a matter of time. All of the previous symptoms are still present. Long term fuel trims at idle are 0.98 bank 1, 1.03 bank 2. I'm running out of money and patience, and really don't want to spend another week in LA while Callas looks into it further (assuming they are willing to without charging me extra).
Something from Callas' initial diagnosis that was never addressed: "Monitored oxygen sensor signals and there was a notice difference between post cat oxygen sensor voltages at idle. Aftermarket center section has X fairly close to post-cat o2 sensors which may have some affect but issue unlikely as problem only occurs at part throttle." When I first bought the car I had stock cats swapped on to pass smog. Logged misfires on 1/3/5 with the stock cats, so I don't think the Fabspeed x-pipe is causing the misfire. Maybe it's the O2 sensors after all? Not sure how to check this without spending $$$ to replace them - any suggestions?
Also is it possible that post-cat O2 sensors can affect the long term fuel trims?
First off, so sorry to hear all this work did not solve the problem. :-(. This really sucks.
When I swapped out my stock CATS out for a par of Topgear 200 Cel ones, I started throwing misfires and post cat o2 errors. I ended up swapping out the 4 o2 sensors and the issue went away. It’s probably worth a shot. Not much else is can be as you have just about replaced everything else. :-(
Recommend you call Callas before you swap any parts out. The O2 sensor could be it Bet Callas can talk you through a few tests, if needed, since you have equipment that can pull data.
Yeah I wish I could reach Callas right now. Probably won't hear from them until Monday when I'm back in San Jose. I want to understand if and how post-cat O2 sensors affect fuel trims before I get back under the car myself.
Originally Posted by chonniedotcom
First off, so sorry to hear all this work did not solve the problem. :-(. This really sucks.
When I swapped out my stock CATS out for a par of Topgear 200 Cel ones, I started throwing misfires and post cat o2 errors. I ended up swapping out the 4 o2 sensors and the issue went away. It’s probably worth a shot. Not much else is can be as you have just about replaced everything else. :-(
That's the thing... I don't see any post-cat O2 errors, just the misfires. Do you know whether replacing those fixed the misfire, or could it have been the pre-cat ones?
Yeah I wish I could reach Callas right now. Probably won't hear from them until Monday when I'm back in San Jose. I want to understand if and how post-cat O2 sensors affect fuel trims before I get back under the car myself.
That's the thing... I don't see any post-cat O2 errors, just the misfires. Do you know whether replacing those fixed the misfire, or could it have been the pre-cat ones?
i changed out all 4 at the same time. ;-). So not sure.
you could try the precat ones first. ;-). Save a few bucks.
Going to swap bank 1 and 2 post-cat O2 sensors next week. I noticed the bank 1 sensor only spikes up to 0.3V at idle whereas bank 2 spikes up to 0.7V, which is considered normal. Variation in the post-cat O2 sensors would explain why there's a big delta between bank 1 and 2 long term fuel trims. Maybe this is just a symptom of a different issue but it wouldn't hurt to try the sensor swap. Callas seemed to think the sensors aren't the issue for some reason even though they noticed the delta.
02-25-2021, 12:40 AM
