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Green Gunk in coolant? Intermix?

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Old 08-31-2020, 06:04 PM
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Chipso4
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Default Green Gunk in coolant? Intermix?

Trying not to freak out as my gut says oil intermix issue. What I'm trying to figure out is where to start. The only thing that gives me pause is why is the gunk so leafy green. I only use the pink stuff. It's the consistency of cold cream or vaseline. I waiting to see if it dries, which would be odd too.

So I don't know what it could be besides innermix. The engine is freshly built, heads done, new head gasket, nickies sleeves. 1400 miles on the new engine. I can't imagine it's cracked anything or a head gasket. The engine runs great. Change the oil at 700 miles, no coolant in there, and no coolant loss at all. Some oil loss, no smoke at all, misfires, etc. no over heating. I'm kinda baffled. AOS and intercooler were NOT replaced during the build so maybe that it?? I might replace those and do a pressure clean of cooling system. See if it comes back? Could even be left over from not flushing cooling system?



The cap

The stuff inside. Why is it green?
Old 08-31-2020, 08:52 PM
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CAVU
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did you personally do, or supervise, the engine R&R, including the installation of the coolant?

If you decide to perform a coolant flush, with my other german cars, the oem cites using nonsudsing detergent (dishwasher soap and water) first to degrease/clean, repeat until clean and then rinse multiple times.. Since you are probably not facing mineral buildup, then the citric acid solution flush is not recommended. You could take that coolant cap, and submerge it into a bucket of hot water and see what happens, then into a bucket of the aforementioned hot degreasing solution and see what happens.

Interesting one you have there. Sure hope it is simple.

Last edited by CAVU; 08-31-2020 at 08:55 PM.
Old 08-31-2020, 09:40 PM
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hatchetf15
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What does the shop that rebuilt the engine say?
Old 08-31-2020, 10:13 PM
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PV997
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I remember reading somewhere that mixing the wrong type of coolant with the Porsche-approved formulation will cause it to form jelly. Googling it found this reference:

http://986forum.com/forums/297754-post6.html

"Instead of buying the super-expensive Porsche Coolant from the dealer, Zerex Extreme Life 5/150, Texaco Extended Life, Shell Rotella® ELC Extended Life Coolant, UNI-GARD 5/150, Mercury Extended Life Coolant Anti-Freeze, all meet or exceed Porsche Coolant requirements and are much cheaper. Use of any other type coolant is not compatible with the system and can form a gel-like substance if mixed with the proper coolant which can then obstruct flow, create hotspots, blow up your engine, etc."

Not sure that's what's going on but I would not run the engine until I was convinced it had been fully flushed.

Edit: another reference:

http://www.pedrosgarage.com/Site_5/C...ntifreeze.html

"On a final note, regarding the “mixing of non Porsche coolant with Porsche coolant will turn to gel” issue, here’s the scoop.

Porsche was one of the first manufacturers to use an all aluminum engine and they were pioneers in the development of the Organic Additive Technology (OAT) for antifreeze. In those days the concentration of silicates, borates and phosphates (among others) was so high in the commercially available IAT coolants, that when mixed with OAT this would cause the additives to precipitate out of solution and would clog many of the fine cooling vanes in the radiators and engine. This precipitate had the consistency of slush.

Bottom line: Don’t mix different types of antifreeze."

Last edited by PV997; 08-31-2020 at 10:19 PM. Reason: more info
Old 09-01-2020, 08:59 AM
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Petza914
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Wow, that's weird and I've not seen that before. What type of oil did you put in the motor? For example, Driven GP-1 is actually green in color so that would solve the color mystery.

I would not drive the car again until both the cooling system and oil are changed as that get can't possibly pump through the tiny coolant passageways well and you'll end up with hot spots in the motor causing internal engine issues (scoring, warped head, etc).

Old 09-01-2020, 10:29 AM
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Chipso4
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The engine had bore scoring and 96k miles. I build the engine myself, but it's not my first rodeo. So don't hate.
The heads and cylinders were professionally machined. It can be done, but it's kinda hard to mess up the head install if you follow the instructions. It's usually more obvious if you did mess that up than what I'm seeing. But who knows. That would suck. A lot.
@PV997 Those links are helpful. Thank you. I have heard of the gel problem. Usually pink though. I used Zerex G40 which claims full OEM stats.

@Petza914 I think you are the closest in the mystery. I am using Driven Oil (not GP-1 tho) and was about to go test out the used oil to see what color it is. I suspect a greenish tinge. UGH!

Ran all the diags just recently on the Durametric. No issues, normal readings.
Replacing AOS and Oil cooler is DAYS of work. Maybe do a compression test??, but honestly, the thing runs like a beast! Trying to figure out what diag I can do to narrow it down. Why didn't I replace the AOS damn it. But could it be that? I know coolant runs through it, but oil isn't pressurized. The opposite actually.
I have the battery cable heat rot issue I have to replace anyway.
It def seems one way, oil into coolant, not the other way around. Oil pressure too high?
Are there any other innermix components I'm missing?

Last edited by Chipso4; 09-01-2020 at 11:27 AM. Reason: typo
Old 09-01-2020, 10:31 AM
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2009 C2S 158K miles

Never saw that..... First thing I would do is drain oil and see if there is mix on the other side of the system. Maybe that gunk is assembly lube?

If coolant is getting into your combustion chamber, say from a cracked head, one of your exhaust pipes will be clean. The coolant will be steam cleaning the inside of the exhaust pipe. And smell the exhaust from each pipe; if there is coolant, they will smell differently and one will smell sweet.

Let us know and good luck.

Peace
Bruce in Philly

Last edited by Bruce In Philly; 09-01-2020 at 10:34 AM.
Old 09-01-2020, 01:50 PM
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Man, I’m sorry to hear this. I follow you on Instagram and have seen your posts on your rebuild. Hope it works out.
Old 09-01-2020, 03:14 PM
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Chipso4
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Originally Posted by boxtaboy
Man, I’m sorry to hear this. I follow you on Instagram and have seen your posts on your rebuild. Hope it works out.
Hey Carreralicious, Thanks man! It's pretty confusing. Hope to get it sorted soon.
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Old 09-01-2020, 04:59 PM
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Petza914
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Originally Posted by Chipso4
The engine had bore scoring and 96k miles. I build the engine myself, but it's not my first rodeo. So don't hate.
The heads and cylinders were professionally machined. It can be done, but it's kinda hard to mess up the head install if you follow the instructions. It's usually more obvious if you did mess that up than what I'm seeing. But who knows. That would suck. A lot.
@PV997 Those links are helpful. Thank you. I have heard of the gel problem. Usually pink though. I used Zerex G40 which claims full OEM stats.

@Petza914 I think you are the closest in the mystery. I am using Driven Oil (not GP-1 tho) and was about to go test out the used oil to see what color it is. I suspect a greenish tinge. UGH!

Ran all the diags just recently on the Durametric. No issues, normal readings.
Replacing AOS and Oil cooler is DAYS of work. Maybe do a compression test??, but honestly, the thing runs like a beast! Trying to figure out what diag I can do to narrow it down. Why didn't I replace the AOS damn it. But could it be that? I know coolant runs through it, but oil isn't pressurized. The opposite actually.
I have the battery cable heat rot issue I have to replace anyway.
It def seems one way, oil into coolant, not the other way around. Oil pressure too high?
Are there any other innermix components I'm missing?
The regular Driven oils we use like DT40 are brown in color. It's only the GP-1 that's green as it has some special base stock in it from a refinery in PA. I wouldn't even know it was green but used it in my supercharged 928 when doing 3 oil changes 200 miles apart for a SeaFoam gunk cleanse. It was one of the only Driven oils that was compatible with the DT50 I normally run. I don't think the green color is from the Driven oil if you use DT40 - I don't know if DI40 has a color to it.
Old 09-01-2020, 06:02 PM
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Chipso4
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@Petza914 You are right. It's brown and or oil colored. Moreover, that green stuff smells nothing like oil at all. Just coolant smell. And it's starting to film over and dry a bit. There is no oil film or anything I'd describe as oil in the coolant reservoir. Which got me thinking what parts are in contact with the coolant. I did snap a coolant line that came off the AOS and used a fuel line to replace it. Maybe it no like?? Dissolved rubber? It's the only non oem part or sealant on the car. I do get myself into some dumb situations.

Experimenting now

Is it the fuel line? Let's see
Old 09-04-2020, 09:07 PM
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Well, it's still a mystery, but I figure the machine shop got a little grease happy on the heads. That's my best guess as it is not oil.
So, I'm going to go put laundry detergent in my engine and drive around for a bit. I like a fresh off the mountain top smell to my engine. Will film it for my channel if you guys want to see how it works out. I'm wondering myself.


Will leave a review for 911's on their page
Old 09-05-2020, 07:50 AM
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Is the coolant in the car still pink or is it turn green?

did you vac fill the coolant?



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