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Im driving a 997.1 C2S. I’m upgrading a bunch of suspension components to make the car more track oriented. Was hoping some folks can point me at torque specs for various components. If it helps, I can also reply later with photos and bolt/nut sizes once the car is off the ground.
The torque specs I need are for these components:
- Upper shock mount nuts
- LCA inner end nut
- LCA nut to connect middle bushing to thrust arm
- LCA outer nut to wheel carrier
- Outer tie rod ball joint nut
- Outer tie rod inner locking nut
- Drop link to strut
- Drop link to sway bar
- Rear camber adjuster eccentric
- Rear toe control arm inner
- Rear toe control arm outer
- Front subframe bolts that need to be loosened to get sway bar in/out
Also, for folks who’ve done this before, do I want to use some locktite on all/some of these bolts?
Im driving a 997.1 C2S. I’m upgrading a bunch of suspension components to make the car more track oriented. Was hoping some folks can point me at torque specs for various components. If it helps, I can also reply later with photos and bolt/nut sizes once the car is off the ground.
The torque specs I need are for these components:
- Upper shock mount nuts
- LCA inner end nut
- LCA nut to connect middle bushing to thrust arm
- LCA outer nut to wheel carrier
- Outer tie rod ball joint nut
- Outer tie rod inner locking nut
- Drop link to strut
- Drop link to sway bar
- Rear camber adjuster eccentric
- Rear toe control arm inner
- Rear toe control arm outer
- Front subframe bolts that need to be loosened to get sway bar in/out
Also, for folks who’ve done this before, do I want to use some locktite on all/some of these bolts?
FYI you will need a torque adapter to tighten the rear inner lower control arm adjustment bolt/nut, and you MIGHT need one for the rear toe-link inner bolt too. You can get a torque wrench with socket onto the LCA inner adjustment bolt but you obviously don't want to turn that since it will adjust your camber. It's impossible to get a socket onto the nut on the other end of that adjustment bolt so you need this expensive tool, or a complete set of them.....
I can't recall what size the inner nut is for the rear toe-link..... 16, 18, or 19mm. I have the Tarett toe locking kit which uses a different nut and bolt so mine is different that stock. I know with that bolt, the sway bar blocks your access to the bolt head and there isn't a lot of clearance inside the subframe for the nut but you might be able to get a socket and torque wrench in there..... but the torque adapter would really help.
Good luck getting a torque wrench in there. I never tried those adapters. Honestly, I just made them tight as I thought they should go. FWIW, I watched plenty of techs not use torque wrenches under there... come to think of it, I never saw a torque wrench used on suspension parts. I am not saying that is OK, just the way I saw it.
Peace
Bruce in Philly
Last edited by Bruce In Philly; 08-26-2020 at 11:41 AM.
That's why I gave the advice in my previous post I just bought the torque adapters specifically so I could torque those bolts. It's what the factory service manual calls for - though of course they use some other brand of tool, but it's the same idea. I just wrapped up torquing literally every front and rear suspension and subframe bolt after doing coilovers, toe-links, LCAs, swaybars, bushings, etc.
Make sure if you're using those torque adapters to use them at 90 degrees (perpendicular) to the handle of your torque wrench. Otherwise you'll increase the amount of torque being using due to lengthening the shaft.
Make sure if you're using those torque adapters to use them at 90 degrees (perpendicular) to the handle of your torque wrench. Otherwise you'll increase the amount of torque being using due to lengthening the shaft.
I believe I read in the FSM that the torque settings for the bolts that require the torque adapters are actually adjusted to accommodate for this. The lengthening the torque adapter adds is only 2" though.... so would apply a max of 16% increase if my math is right. But yeah, I did think of that and take it into consideration.
That's why I gave the advice in my previous post I just bought the torque adapters specifically so I could torque those bolts. It's what the factory service manual calls for - though of course they use some other brand of tool, but it's the same idea. I just wrapped up torquing literally every front and rear suspension and subframe bolt after doing coilovers, toe-links, LCAs, swaybars, bushings, etc.
Nice. Did you go with the Tarett stuff all around?
I actually bought an adapter a few months back that can attach onto any box wrench. I’m planning on using it to torque things down.
Good luck getting a torque wrench in there. I never tried those adapters. Honestly, I just made them tight as I thought they should go. FWIW, I watched plenty of techs not use torque wrenches under there... come to think of it, I never saw a torque wrench used on suspension parts. I am not saying that is OK, just the way I saw it.
Peace
Bruce in Philly
Yeah, I generally subscribe to the philosophy that you don’t need to take a torque wrench to every bolt you touch. But I know some of these components take in a lot of torque and I just want to make sure I get enough on there.
Nice. Did you go with the Tarett stuff all around?
I actually bought an adapter a few months back that can attach onto any box wrench. I’m planning on using it to torque things down.
Wow, never heard of an adapter you can attach to any box wrench - that's awesome and probably much cheaper than the route I took. Though I do love collecting expensive tools..... Do you have a link to what you bought?
I got a lot of the parts from Tarett but much of it is OEM GT3 stuff that Tarett sells, such as the GT3 LCAs and front and rear GT3 sway bars. Actual Tarett parts are rear toe-link locking kit and front upper monoballs. Then I added new OEM upper strut bearings front and rear, and Ohlins Road and Track coilovers. I also installed SPL front and rear sway bar drop links and the rear bump-steer adjustable toe link.
Actually just got back from taking it for the first test drive since installing. Stiffer than I thought it would be. Should be fun on the track.
Wow, never heard of an adapter you can attach to any box wrench - that's awesome and probably much cheaper than the route I took. Though I do love collecting expensive tools..... Do you have a link to what you bought?
I got a lot of the parts from Tarett but much of it is OEM GT3 stuff that Tarett sells, such as the GT3 LCAs and front and rear GT3 sway bars. Actual Tarett parts are rear toe-link locking kit and front upper monoballs. Then I added new OEM upper strut bearings front and rear, and Ohlins Road and Track coilovers. I also installed SPL front and rear sway bar drop links and the rear bump-steer adjustable toe link.
Actually just got back from taking it for the first test drive since installing. Stiffer than I thought it would be. Should be fun on the track.
Nice. I’m super excited to do my install and get back on track.
I plan to follow the 90 degree rule when using it when I can. But, out of curiosity, earlier you did some math to find the torque multiplier. Can you share what that math is, so I can use it if I can’t get a 90 degree angle going?
Wow, never heard of an adapter you can attach to any box wrench - that's awesome and probably much cheaper than the route I took. Though I do love collecting expensive tools..... Do you have a link to what you bought?
I got a lot of the parts from Tarett but much of it is OEM GT3 stuff that Tarett sells, such as the GT3 LCAs and front and rear GT3 sway bars. Actual Tarett parts are rear toe-link locking kit and front upper monoballs. Then I added new OEM upper strut bearings front and rear, and Ohlins Road and Track coilovers. I also installed SPL front and rear sway bar drop links and the rear bump-steer adjustable toe link.
Actually just got back from taking it for the first test drive since installing. Stiffer than I thought it would be. Should be fun on the track.
Also, do you have any pics to share of your setup?
Also, do you have any pics to share of your setup?
RE the math - Well you would just add on however many inches as a percentage of torque. So think about it like this: If the torque wrench required a certain amount of force and it was 12" long, if you applied that same force on a 24" long wrench, you would be applying double the torque to the fastener. So divide the added length of your adapter to the length of the torque wrench, and that is the percentage increase in torque you would be applying to the fastener. Example, your torque wrench is 18" long, your adapter adds 2", 2/18 = 0.11 which is 11%. So if you have the wrench set to 74 ft lbs, you'd be applying 82 ft lbs. Honestly not going to matter that much for something like a suspension bolt but it's up to you.
Pics attached of my setup. Basically street plus track, no real aero. I have an OEM Aerokit front bumper that I will add soon, and some brand new BBS E88 wheels that I waited 4 months for that Fedex has now lost :-\
I plan to follow the 90 degree rule when using it when I can. But, out of curiosity, earlier you did some math to find the torque multiplier. Can you share what that math is, so I can use it if I can’t get a 90 degree angle going?
Here is the official math for the torque adapters. It will work on your wrench as well:
08-26-2020, 02:55 AM
Suspension components torque specs
I just bought the torque adapters specifically so I could torque those bolts. It's what the factory service manual calls for - though of course they use some other brand of tool, but it's the same idea. I just wrapped up torquing literally every front and rear suspension and subframe bolt after doing coilovers, toe-links, LCAs, swaybars, bushings, etc.
