Copied my first post that includes all findings over the course of a couple of days.

 

cheers - the top comfort has never worked for anyone. You need to have good voltage doing all this stuff. Connect a charger in "shop mode" or constant supply or whatever you have to keep the voltage up. The fans will behave as you've seen when using durametric.

 

Just a note ... Lots of warnings to not use an inverter power supply with Durametric makes me concerned having a charger plugged in with it.

Additionally, after any ignition on I measured 5 amps of parasitic draw for 3 minutes dropping to almost 2 amps for an unmeasured time. No wonder my battery died in the midst of my playing!!!

 

Two separate things: inverter refers to using the car battery to provide inverter power for a computer (removing charge from Batt). Bad. Charger puts charge into batt. Good. As I said above, either a good battery or a charger/shop supply INPUT is required during durametric stuff.

Also, sounds like your battery is knackered, as we say down here.

 

During SIP it definitely discharged. But seems to have recovered now. Passes load testing. Only 11 months old. Surprised me ... The 5 amp parasitic indicated from my Fluke meter. It does drop eventually to 1.5 and then less. But I can see how a lot of ignition on off cycles without starting the car could take it out of the battery.

PS: That's what I figured on the inverter but better to freak out than screw up I figured. I've read enough translated manuals ...