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Wanted to bump this... I did my pulleys the other day, even ordered a slim 15mm wrench thanks to the advice in this thread...
The tensioner pulley bolt on my 2008 C2S is a 16mm. Both the one on the car, and the one that came with the new tensioner pulley (997-102-117-00-M219).
Just thought I'd share if anyone else was trying to jam a 15mm wrench back there blind with no success... I had to complete the job using a small adjustable wrench.
These photos and instructions will be a HUGE help this IF i need to replace.
Question - how did you determine they needed changing? I was told mine needing changing because the pulleys have grooved a lip on the edges similar to an alternator pulley and that they shouldn't be. No visible or audible issues. And after looking up new parts they do look different but also not worn to create a lip. They look like a lot of those I'm seeing on youtube vides on on rennlist. They look like they were supposed to be lipped. head scratcher.
Useful thread,
had the power steering fail causing a hairy moment.
This was traced to the Aux belt not being on.
Bottom pulley had exploded with 1/2 being found. It had the plastic type that had shattered leaving the bearing which seamed fine behind.
i have found the alternator over run bearing to be solid, with no one way action.
i am to replace all idler pulleys, belt and over run bearings.
Guess stress of alternator deceleration transferred to the pulley ?
Last edited by brettfcars; 02-13-2024 at 06:38 AM.
When I did this job, also due to an exploding pulley, I took the advice of another thread and had the 15 or 16mm bolt welded to the back of the right angle arm. You can see in this pic taken from a post by @Firedome48 the bolt in the right angle arm that must be held stationary and can be difficult to access. In the future, for me, this bolt won't spin a bit.
05-24-2021, 08:44 PM
