Submariner2009

Folks,

I'm going to replace the rear shocks on my 2006 997 S Cabriolet (~80K miles, one is leaking). Went with the OEM Bilstein B4s and will also replace the mounts, of course.

Being new to the model, is there anything else I should proactively change while I'm doing this and "in there," so-to-speak? Always welcome thoughts, best practices and experiences!

Thanks!

Nitemare9

Look at DSC, sport module.
Bill

campbesl

You probably want to replace the upper shock mounts ("supporting mount") as they have a foam compliance piece that ages. These were p/n 997 333 061 00 for my '06 S coupe. The other items would be the bump stop ("additional spring") which is foam and it tends to deteriorate. These were p/n 996 333 105 02 for my coupe.

jchapura

It really comes down to how much you're willing to disassemble to check. I replaced my stock set with Ohlins R&Ts and when I had things apart, it was much easier to tell which things (like tuning forks, links, coffins b/c of torn bushings, etc) were too loose. It made for a multi-session replacement event but I felt more confident that I replaced worn parts without "over-replacing". I definitely had "clunks" and "clicks" before and none afterwards. Even a couple ten-thousandths of play turns into a clunk with forces seen while driving.

Bruce In Philly

2009 C2S 152K miles

When I did my rear struts, I saw the lower control arms had ripped bushes.... Fortunately, I found a source and had them shipped overnight.

Peace
Bruce in Philly

Petza914

As Nitemare9 mentioned, if you've ever thought about doing the TPC DSC controller, now is the time sin e you'll have the subwoofer out to access the rear top mounts and on a .1 car have to wire in a 3 axis accelerometer back there.

Also, check/replace the ends in the drop links that connect to the sway bar and regrease the bushings in the SwayBar mounts.

cwheeler

As a note, the 3-axis is installed in the stereo/hvac stack on the .1s. I would highly recommend it tho.

Cw

scadams

I'd recommend having a good look at all the bushings for wear. If any need to be replaced, it's best to get them done while the area is being worked on to save time/labor and you'll only have to get it aligned once.

FWIW, I just installed B16 Damptronics, Tarett monoball mounts, and the DSC Controller.

Petza914

That's actualky the alternate position. The preferred position is on the totally flat aluminum frame right next to the DME in the rear where you connect to the twisted pair of canbus wires at their source, but since most people don't want to go to the trouble of taking the rear section apart, TPC created the alternate console install configuration that's easier.

cwheeler

Interesting. That was the only instructions provided when I purchased the unit!! Is there a true advantage to the rear position?

Cw

Petza914

I think it puts the accelerometer closer to the rotational mass center of the car. Does it make a noticeable difference, I don't know as I've never driven my car with it installed anywhere else and different setups on different cars would drive differently.

Check out the attached photo instructions for the details on this install location