Time or mileage based maintenance
Thread Starter
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Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 784
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From: South West Florida
Time or mileage based maintenance
Approaching 57k miles on my 07 which I purchased in October. Pierced together the following schedule:Iterm Mileage Date
Manual Transmission Fluid 0 06/08/07
Spark Plugs 44,662 07/10/12
Drive Belt 44,662 07/10/12
Rear Tires 49,345 01/15/15
Brake Fluid 52,461 06/27/16
Oil/Filter 55,277 03/17/18
Air Filter 55,277 03/17/18
Cabin Filter 55,277 03/17/18
Front Tires 55,289 6/28/18
Anything semi urgent? I drive 3-4k miles a year (other car is M4). Car drives great but my mostly city mpg is only 16.
Thanks
Manual Transmission Fluid 0 06/08/07
Spark Plugs 44,662 07/10/12
Drive Belt 44,662 07/10/12
Rear Tires 49,345 01/15/15
Brake Fluid 52,461 06/27/16
Oil/Filter 55,277 03/17/18
Air Filter 55,277 03/17/18
Cabin Filter 55,277 03/17/18
Front Tires 55,289 6/28/18
Anything semi urgent? I drive 3-4k miles a year (other car is M4). Car drives great but my mostly city mpg is only 16.
Thanks
Racer
Joined: May 2019
Posts: 348
Likes: 145
For me oil and filter is annual. Depending on the type of brake fluid every other on that. Your tires are getting older in the rear.
Edit: I should have said minimum annual on the oil. I would stay getting antsy around 3k.
Edit: I should have said minimum annual on the oil. I would stay getting antsy around 3k.
Last edited by TopKatz; Feb 17, 2020 at 09:59 AM.
Advanced
Joined: Oct 2019
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Total newbie here and I just picked up my car this past Saturday. This is probably apples and oranges, but my car is a 2011 with 26k on the odo and the dealer performed an 80k service based on age and CPO. He said the next service is in 40k, not counting oil.
Perdido
Perdido
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From: Edmonton, Alberta
For my summer-only driven car, fluids are based on time, everything else is mileage. Oil before it goes to bed in the fall and brake fluid bi-annually. I did replace the front tires based on time (nine years old ).
Pro
Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 530
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You'll get the minimalist and do-everything answers on questions like this. Oil and filter and brake fluid now. I'd do the trans fluid now and you'll be good on that for a long time. You don't have to go all prophylactic on the water pump and coolant tank and pulleys and such. Next winter change the air and cabin filters maybe. Ask your Indy their advice and see what they say.
Rennlist Member
Joined: Nov 2019
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From: Idaho
You'll get the minimalist and do-everything answers on questions like this. Oil and filter and brake fluid now. I'd do the trans fluid now and you'll be good on that for a long time. You don't have to go all prophylactic on the water pump and coolant tank and pulleys and such. Next winter change the air and cabin filters maybe. Ask your Indy their advice and see what they say.
I would also replace those rear tires now.
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Pro
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 700
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From: Medford, Oregon
Brake fluid flush every 2 years , belt, plugs, check coils, check pulleys, oil yearly/5000 miles( my opinion) and if it was my car I would flush and replace the coolant with genuine Porsche antifreeze,
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RL Community Team
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Joined: Oct 2007
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From: Clemson, SC
As steph said, I'd do the water pump and belt. I'd only do pulleys if after removing the belt you find one or some that have play or don't spin freely and smoothly. My wife's 05 997 C2S is still running its original pulleys at 105k miles.
Her water pump failed right around 60k miles though, which is pretty normal. You can either replace it now where you can source good and cheaper parts and either DIY it or select your Indy, or you can be at the mercy of whatever dealer you're near when it decides to fail randomly sometime in the next 10k miles.
Also, might not be a bad idea to change the 3 chain tensioners at 60k miles.
I'm more from the mileage based maintenance schedule school of thought, but consider both time and mileage when deciding what to do. Brake fluid, for example is a time more than mileage change as it absorbs water from the air even when not being used vs something like brake pads or rotors, that don't. Motor oil is somewhere in the middle where either time or mileage will dictate it's replacement schedule.
Her water pump failed right around 60k miles though, which is pretty normal. You can either replace it now where you can source good and cheaper parts and either DIY it or select your Indy, or you can be at the mercy of whatever dealer you're near when it decides to fail randomly sometime in the next 10k miles.
Also, might not be a bad idea to change the 3 chain tensioners at 60k miles.
I'm more from the mileage based maintenance schedule school of thought, but consider both time and mileage when deciding what to do. Brake fluid, for example is a time more than mileage change as it absorbs water from the air even when not being used vs something like brake pads or rotors, that don't. Motor oil is somewhere in the middle where either time or mileage will dictate it's replacement schedule.
Last edited by Petza914; Feb 18, 2020 at 09:53 AM.
Thread Starter
Rennlist Member
Joined: Mar 2013
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From: South West Florida
Given I only drive local, car is not my daily (have a 16' M4) and I have free tow just in case, I think spending over $1k for water pump now is likely overkill just because it might fail at 60k. However, I will ask indy to check system, pulleys and tensioners for slack/wobble, etc. and then decide.
Randomly failing in 10k miles is 4 years away....
Randomly failing in 10k miles is 4 years away....
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2019
Posts: 1,039
Likes: 558
From: Colorado
As steph said, I'd do the water pump and belt. I'd only do pulleys if after removing the belt you find one or some that have play or don't spin freely and smoothly. My wife's 05 997 C2S is still running its original pulleys at 105k miles.
Her water pump failed right around 60k miles though, which is pretty normal. You can either replace it now where you can source good and cheaper parts and either DIY it or select your Indy, or you can be at the mercy of whatever dealer you're near when it decides to fail randomly sometime in the next 10k miles.
Also, might not be a bad idea to change the 3 chain tensioners at 60k miles.
I'm more from the mileage based maintenance schedule school of thought, but consider both time and mileage when deciding what to do. Brake fluid, for example is a time more than mileage change as it absorbs water from the air even when not being used vs something like brake pads or rotors, that don't. Motor oil is somewhere in the middle where either time or mileage will dictate it's replacement schedule.
Her water pump failed right around 60k miles though, which is pretty normal. You can either replace it now where you can source good and cheaper parts and either DIY it or select your Indy, or you can be at the mercy of whatever dealer you're near when it decides to fail randomly sometime in the next 10k miles.
Also, might not be a bad idea to change the 3 chain tensioners at 60k miles.
I'm more from the mileage based maintenance schedule school of thought, but consider both time and mileage when deciding what to do. Brake fluid, for example is a time more than mileage change as it absorbs water from the air even when not being used vs something like brake pads or rotors, that don't. Motor oil is somewhere in the middle where either time or mileage will dictate it's replacement schedule.
I bought my '07 C2S last year with just under 50k miles. I have almost 55k miles currently and was looking to complete the service that I did not complete last year.
I just received an estimate from my Indy for the water pump, T-stat (I have already purchased the LN low-temp version), and a few other things. I had them quote the chain tensioners and labor, and was floored at how much it would cost me. With parts and labor it was over $2,500 for just the chain tensioners.
So my questions are 1) is the quote I received the standard going rate for having an Indy replace the chain tensioners and 2) do the chain tensioners really need to be proactively replaced?
My Indy has always been very fair with me and on par, if not cheaper, than other shops I've been to. I don't hear any rattles at startup, nor do I have any plastic bits in my oil filters when I've changed the oil, so do I really need to change them?
Last edited by G.I.G.; Feb 19, 2020 at 11:57 AM.
RL Community Team
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From: Clemson, SC
Interesting that I came across this thread, as I was about to ask some of these very questions.
I bought my '07 C2S last year with just under 50k miles. I have almost 55k miles currently and was looking to complete the service that I did not complete last year.
I just received an estimate from my Indy for the water pump, T-stat (I have already purchased the LN low-temp version), and a few other things. I had them quote the chain tensioners and labor, and was floored at how much it would cost me. With parts and labor it was over $2,500 for just the chain tensioners.
So my questions are 1) is the quote I received the standard going rate for having an Indy replace the chain tensioners and 2) do the chain tensioners really need to be proactively replaced?
My Indy has always been very fair with me and on par, if not cheaper, than other shops I've been to. I don't hear any rattles at startup, nor do I have any plastic bits in my oil filters when I've changed the oil, so do I really need to change them?
I bought my '07 C2S last year with just under 50k miles. I have almost 55k miles currently and was looking to complete the service that I did not complete last year.
I just received an estimate from my Indy for the water pump, T-stat (I have already purchased the LN low-temp version), and a few other things. I had them quote the chain tensioners and labor, and was floored at how much it would cost me. With parts and labor it was over $2,500 for just the chain tensioners.
So my questions are 1) is the quote I received the standard going rate for having an Indy replace the chain tensioners and 2) do the chain tensioners really need to be proactively replaced?
My Indy has always been very fair with me and on par, if not cheaper, than other shops I've been to. I don't hear any rattles at startup, nor do I have any plastic bits in my oil filters when I've changed the oil, so do I really need to change them?
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2019
Posts: 1,039
Likes: 558
From: Colorado
Check Bank 1 and Bank 2 camshaft deviation values and if they're good and you don't have any start up rattle and no plastic in the filter media, you can hold off on the tensioner replacement for now. Maybe do them at 75,000 miles or so unless something changes between now and then.
Intermediate
Joined: May 2019
Posts: 47
Likes: 10
From: Seattle
My 997.1 C2S is in the shop right now for it's [roughly] 60k service. I bought it at 55k and while everything was up-to-date, I figure I'll give it a clean slate.
I am doing:
Oil Change
Spark Plugs
Coil Packs
Blake Flush
Transaxle fluid
and for good measure:
Numeric short shifter
Semi-Solid motor mounts (Function-First)
I am doing:
Oil Change
Spark Plugs
Coil Packs
Blake Flush
Transaxle fluid
and for good measure:
Numeric short shifter
Semi-Solid motor mounts (Function-First)