I had a friend's car in my garage for some basic service (oil change, filters, brake fluid flush, plugs, ...) last week. But we failed to do the flush or plugs when we couldn't remove the center lock nut on the left rear tire. We even tried lifting the special factory breaker bar with a floor jack but the bar's flex made me fear we would snap it.

The rear tires were at the "cords will appear in the next 50 miles" stage so we opted to pass this problem off to our tire guy.

This morning the tire guy failed as well, using a 4 foot pipe for extra leverage on the breaker bar.

So the car went to our trusted Indie who simply said "Yeah, some do that" as he picked up his 6 foot extension pipe. He also picked up his heavier breaker bar.

So picture 180 to 200 pounds jumping up and down at the end of a 6 foot pipe. Note: The pipe was sleeved over the entire breaker bar to avoid over flexing and breaking it (the bar).

Yes, after some effort the center lock nut came loose. You can do the math for the torque that nut endured [(6 feet minus jumping at 1 foot from the end) times (200 pounds)].

And yes, jumping on the bar to add weight to the tire to help it not lift and rotate. Also, something to be said about damaging your back lifting on the bar. Additionally, going down from horizontal, if the tool slips or breaks it hits the ground rather than the car.

So now the new PS4 tires are being installed. Then we can tackle the services assuming we'll be able to pull the wheels.

Lesson ... Be ready to use some force if you have center locks. The 450 pound feet is merely the initial torque placed on the nut during installation and apparently this value can increase while driving. The special factory tools might need to be augmented with a long strong pipe. And the special factory breaker bar comes in two flavors ... Make sure your bar has the ratcheting head.

I think I'll stick with my lugs 8)

 

Stupid question. Would a powerful impact not take care of that?

 

The secret to centerlocks is using a geared torque multiplier like this one for $220 from Amazon (recommended by many on these boards): It's rated to 1100 ft-lbs.



It uses a planetary gear set to multiply the input force by 3x to the output. (Though you have to move the input torque wrench 3 times as far as the output turns). It's a must for anyone with centerlocks, say good bye to six foot breaker bars and gigantic torque wrenches. Best of all, it and a normal sized torque wrench fit nicely in the bottom of the frunk without taking up much space.

There have been some concerns about accuracy as any error on the input torque wrench will be magnified 3 times. Use a good quality input torque wrench not the $25 Harbor Freight el cheapo model. I did the long breaker bar thing one time and that was enough, ordered the torque multiplier the next day.

 

Probably better not to generalize based on one experience. Like much else in life.

I didn't have any issue taking off my centerlocks with ease. I do have a long torque wrench. I didn't need special factory tools. I didn't need to use any breaker bar.

 

I’ve had no issues at all with my centerlocks. They’re easy to remove and easy to install. I’m just guessing here, but it sounds like the centerlock nut was installed without a proper application of aluminum anti-seize paste as recommended by Porsche. It’s important to ensure that there’s a smooth and even application of paste on the mating surfaces of the wheel and the centerlock nut. It’s super quick and easy to apply; I wear a disposable rubber glove to smooth it out and I’ve had no problems. That said, it is often overlooked by tire shops.

 

I'm with Wayne - I'll stick with my Ti lugs, and on my 997 I have studs so use lug nuts rather than bolts.

The other thing to keep in mind with centerlocks is that the nubs on the hub (probably have a technical name) that prevent the wheel from turning are a wear item that need replacement from time to time (don't know the interval or if it's just an "replace as necessary" directive). In either case, other than faster pit crew wheel changes on a track, I don't see the purpose or advantage of centerlocks on a street car or even a amateur racer car, other than some people think they look cool. I don't need to be that cool.

 

Seems like many purchase 911s because they look cool and then do mods on them to make them look even cooler. The center locks look cool and I think the RS Spyder wheels are by far the best looking wheel Porsche offered the on 997.2. I think I actually like them better than just about any other after market wheel option I have seen, although I do like Sandwedge's wheels. I also like the 991 RS Spyder wheels.

The only down side I see with them is the inability to add spacers. Sucks about the experience Wayne's friend had with them, but it does sound as if they were not properly reinstalled.

Porsche dealer charges $40 per wheel to mount, balance, rotate and etc. the center lock wheels. My local Independent charges the same. $160 for 4 to have it done correctly seems like a small price to pay to have a wheel that I like and my dealer actually has the N rated tires cheaper than Tire Rack.

 

The spacer issue is another good point. Also, could be a difference between those that DIY and those that drop their car off somewhere to have it worked on and rarely pull a wheel themselves for anything. As a total DIY guy, I prefer the convenience of normal 5 lug wheels over the hypothetical coolness of centerlocks.

 

2009 C2S 150K miles

Good story..... I wanted the center locks when I saw them. I think they look great but then read up on them and they appeared to be a nightmare.... if I get a flat out there etc.... have to buy a tool that shops may not have... etc etc

Porsche is starting to give us "performance" options that simply are not. Cost with little value.

Peace
Bruce in Philly

 

Yep, I didn't realize the no spacer thing until after I bought the car. Likely will be lowering with Eibach springs or coilovers soon and I think the front will be okay but will have to do something about the back. The only option I've found is installing adjustable upper and lower control arms which allows the stance to be widened a small amount. Definitely much more pricey than a couple of spacers.

Porsche says the alignment nubs must be replaced with every rotor change but there's some healthy skepticism on the boards if this is really required (provided they aren't damaged). They are $175 per wheel from Suncoast so it's not cheap. My previous owner had the rear rotors replaced and the nubs aren't on the invoice (work not done by Porsche) so it looks like they were reused on my car. No issues so far that I can tell.

 

The aluminum paste was used. But I can't guarantee there wasn't contamination (dirt) on the hub when it was last installed.

I forgot about the torque multiplier and it is a tool not found in any of my tool chest drawers. That's a great idea that belies the fact that so much torque was required. But definitely the multiplier is a tool that would be a good choice for anyone with center locks IMHO.

With all of the comments I'll put in a different thought. Having been a skeptic regarding center locks, now that I've had a brief chance to play with them I'm much less a skeptic than I used to be. Would I opt for them if given a choice? No. But if a 996.2 TTS showed up with center locks I wouldn't reject the car either!!!

 

You mean 997.2, right?

 

Oops. You're absolutely correct ... 997.2.

Thanks for catching and correcting my poor typing skills!!!

 

I have center locks on my 2017 turbo S. What is the geared torque multiplier called. I have many tools, but never heard of that.

 

See the link in post #3.