Replaced coil packs for the 1st time, stripped the threads and cracked the housing when I had a torque wrench malfunction. Hard to justify Snap-On prices until something like this happens with your Harbor Freight crap. Anyhow, I put blue Loctite in and tightened very gingerly. The other thread is ok so the coil pack is solid. Can this be repaired? What would you do at this point?

 

I think you did well: Blue Loctite and gentle tightening. It should hold.

Yves

 

Repaired - probably could with an insert. In situ? probably not.. but as stated above - likely won't have any issue.

 

Put the bolt back in it and tighten to snug. A torque wrench is really overkill for this sort of bolt, it holds the coil on and a 1/4 ratchet with minor effort will suffice. You may be able to get a slightly longer bolt and find some good threads down farther, just make sure it doesn’t bottom out

 

From the photo it looks like it's cracked on two sides so any repair such as drilling and a new insert risks the whole thing breaking off. What you did is probably fine but if you are concerned I agree with cdk4219. Get the longest bolt that will fit without bottoming (maybe cut one to length) so you can pick up the treads below the cracked part. You could even run a bottoming tap in the existing hole to extend the threads a bit if they don''t go all the way to the bottom of the hole. That with loctite should be bulletproof.

 

Thanks for the feedback
I will play around with trying to clean and thread the hole all the way to the bottom and use a slightly longer bolt.

 

jb weld the whole mess, crack, hole, etc. drill and tap. Its a low torque area so this should hold fine.

 

As others have written, you are probably OK but, another alternative if needed would be the use of a helicoil.

good luck!

 

I think this might be your best bet. Thread in the proper size helicoil using the good threads that remain, then go down one bolt size and thread that into the helicoil, probably with a flat washer on top to properly secure the coil with the smaller diameter fastener.

 

I dunno about a helicoil... that will create quite a bit of pressure within the socket and may split the socket completely. Honestly, you don't need the screw. The coil pack sits in there so securely.... I don't know why Porsche even used a screw. Remember, plugs-wires were always just friction held for what, 100 years of engine building? If it were me, I would just put in some loctite blue and forget about it.

Peace
Bruce in Philly

Loctite blue tech sheet.... denotes it is for engine parts so, I suspect it will take the heat... denotes 300 degrees F if I am reading the sheet correctly.

https://dm.henkel-dam.com/is/content...-2018-04-09pdf

 

I agree with Quadcammer - JB weld is probably the best fix short of an aluminum weld of the area, which is not practical or necessary. First carefully and fully clean the crack area - including inside - be very careful. Brake clean is your friend, followed by a rinse with water. Let fully dry (use a heat gun or hair dryer). Get full strength JB weld appropriate for the material (read the label, don't use the quick dry). Mix the weld and gently push into the cracked area and around the outside. Also apply it inside the hole around the cracked area. Let it fully set up and dry for at least one day. Then carefully and gently drill the hole out, and add a time sert or heli coil (I prefer time serts). You should be good to go after that.

The problem with not fixing it is that cracks like to propagate (migrate) and eventually the area will fail and become very hard to fix.

 

FWIW I had the same thing happen to my Audi Q7 for the same reason. The harbor freight small torque wrench's suck. I had to replace them because their clock was intermittent. My solution was to run without a screw. It's worked for the past couple years. So you are good with what you did.