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Front brake line bracket. Bolt.

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Old 10-30-2019, 12:07 AM
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workhurts
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Default Front brake line bracket. Bolt.

So. I got lazy and somehow cross threaded the bolt that holds the brake line bracket. Any idea what size it is or part number? I also managed to snap it so need to extract. Otherwise my 997.1 s brake swap to a 997.2 base is going well.
Old 10-30-2019, 01:32 AM
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jayzbird
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This is on the wheel carrier? Strange it would snap bolting into aluminum. Anyway, by the time you get it out you’ll probably be needing to re-tap the threads to a larger size anyway. Good news is there’s not much better bolt to screw up. Anything that hold the bracket in place will do.
Old 10-30-2019, 02:20 AM
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Iceter
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I did the same thing on my first brake change. I’ve never owned a car with more fragile bolts. It’s like they’re made of balsa wood.

i removed the remnant of my old bolt but the threads were FUBAR so I had to tap them and use a larger bolt that I had in my collection.
Old 10-30-2019, 10:54 AM
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Petza914
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Those can be a real bugger to get in straight because of the forces of the brake line trying to pull that bracket out of position.
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Old 10-30-2019, 12:48 PM
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workhurts
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Exactly. I’m trying to do it without removing the caliper I just put in. Hoping the threads aren’t too bad otherwise a tap is in order.
Old 10-30-2019, 10:07 PM
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workhurts
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Fubar is an understatement. What did you tap to, an m8?

Originally Posted by Iceter
I did the same thing on my first brake change. I’ve never owned a car with more fragile bolts. It’s like they’re made of balsa wood.

i removed the remnant of my old bolt but the threads were FUBAR so I had to tap them and use a larger bolt that I had in my collection.
Old 10-30-2019, 10:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Petza914
Those can be a real bugger to get in straight because of the forces of the brake line trying to pull that bracket out of position.
Yup, it's a pain in the ****. I cross threaded and snapped one before. Lucky I was able to extract and straighten it out with a replacement stock bolt I ordered.
Old 10-31-2019, 01:01 AM
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Iceter
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Originally Posted by workhurts
Fubar is an understatement. What did you tap to, an m8?
I tried to chase the threads first with no luck. So, I actually tapped it to the next Imperial size up and used a real, American steel bolt.

The carrier is a substantial chunk of aluminum, so you could tap it to just about any size you want.
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Old 10-31-2019, 01:23 AM
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workhurts
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I have the hole drilled and cleaned up ready for my taps that I ordered. Half tempted to just epoxy a stud in there or something and be done with bolts.

I did see a rennline and/or Tarett brake line kit but couldn’t actually tell what it did or where it attached from the pictures. Figure I owe them a call tomorrow.
Old 10-31-2019, 09:26 PM
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Quadcammer
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Timesert that thing
Old 10-31-2019, 10:24 PM
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workhurts
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Have done that on an oil pan but seems a little overkill for this thing. Ended up just tapping it again and getting an M6x16 bolt from Lowes.

Those stud kits they sell seem a bit overpriced at $25. Should make some kits and sell them myself.

Originally Posted by Quadcammer
Timesert that thing
Old 10-31-2019, 10:38 PM
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morefun
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The Alu carrier is really soft and easy to cross thread. GT3 & GT4 owners who have to remove the calipers to swap pads street/track, use the stud kits i.e from Tarrett for the brake line bracket bolts as well as for the calipers (thread the soft Alu carrier multiple times with the caliper bolts and pretty soon you can’t torque them properly to extent that the caliper pulls out the bolts under hard braking loads). $25 is excessive for a couple of SS bracket studs with nuts but given the PITA remedy factor if you strip the carrier threads, you’ll find the money well spent. Been there, done that ��
Old 05-31-2020, 07:25 AM
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Audifreak666
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Ok, sorry to revive this thread, but there seems to be a lot of discussion about how weak that bolt is. I want to do the brakes for my car, but I’d like to get some new bolts to put in. Anyone know type of bolt do I need? I know it’s 10mm, but how long, and would just a Regular steel bolt work? Should I put anti-seize on it as well?
Old 05-31-2020, 12:35 PM
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workhurts
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The issue could be the bolt if you keep turning it and snap it once cross threaded but the real issue is the cross threading because the bracket doesn’t line up right when under tension.

If you actually know this beforehand and make sure not to cross thread, you should be fine.


Originally Posted by Audifreak666
Ok, sorry to revive this thread, but there seems to be a lot of discussion about how weak that bolt is. I want to do the brakes for my car, but I’d like to get some new bolts to put in. Anyone know type of bolt do I need? I know it’s 10mm, but how long, and would just a Regular steel bolt work? Should I put anti-seize on it as well?
Old 07-04-2023, 12:44 PM
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Hi everyone, to all my American friends, I hope you have a fantastic July 4th!
Resurrecting this thread because doing some work on the car this weekend, I managed to snap the same bolt off. I will try to get it into my indy to drill out and replace (while they do some other work), but in the meantime, is it ok to drive with this bracket not attached? I didn't think it would be an issue and took the car to the store after and I can definitely hear something banging around when I drive - that concerns me. Can I do something else to at least hold it in place until it can be permanently fixed, like some heavy zip ties or wire?
Appreciate any thoughts!


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