Tensioner Pulley Bolt Sheared? Recommendations wanted!
#1
Tensioner Pulley Bolt Sheared? Recommendations wanted!
I have recently started to have belt squeal and today when trying to diagnose the source I noticed my tensioner was extremely loose and the belt was half way off the pulley. I decided to tighten the bolt in question by tightening right - which I am now thinking is a reverse thread bolt because it seemed to get easy as I tightened. As soon as I started the engine to test for noise I heard the bolt rip out, presumably snapping. Does anyone know how screwed I am if half the bolt is stuck in there? I can barely fit my hard in there let alone a drill to remove the rest of the bolt!
The bolt in question is #4 in the below diagram. Thank you in advance,
The bolt in question is #4 in the below diagram. Thank you in advance,
#2
FWIW - Same thing happened to me shortly after obtaining my (new to me) 2010 C2S.
see: https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...t-failure.html
My indie was able to remove broken peice of bolt from block w/o much difficulty and install new tensioner and all new related tensioner related bolts.
W
see: https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...t-failure.html
My indie was able to remove broken peice of bolt from block w/o much difficulty and install new tensioner and all new related tensioner related bolts.
W
#3
Thank you for the response Evo9. I had read through your post - one thing that is odd to me is that my bolt is a hex head and everything I am seeing online is a torx. Hope to get a better look this weekend. Do you mind sharing how much the shop charged?
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ClaMag (04-05-2020)
#4
It's not reverse-threaded. It just felt loose because it broke.
I didn't realize these bolts were weak until I did a search after seeing this post and the link. I guess I'll replace the bolt when I replace the belt next time.
If it sheared flush with the block, you're F'ed. Remove the tensioner and keep your fingers crossed that you have some threads still showing. Hit it with penetrating oil and maybe even some heat before you try to remove it.
I didn't realize these bolts were weak until I did a search after seeing this post and the link. I guess I'll replace the bolt when I replace the belt next time.
If it sheared flush with the block, you're F'ed. Remove the tensioner and keep your fingers crossed that you have some threads still showing. Hit it with penetrating oil and maybe even some heat before you try to remove it.
#6
Hello 93Jaffe,
My indie bill for the job was ~ $1K
Job included:
New tensioner
New power steering pulley
New belt
Labor to install above parts and to remove broken bolt which was broken in block. I believe they used some type of 'bolt-extractor'/easy-out tool to remove broken bolt from block w/o damaging the treads in block.
I was so stressed thinking that removing the broken bolt piece from block was going to be a nightmare. But tech assured me it was not a 'big deal' and that they remove broken fasteners like this all the time. I'm glad his assessment was correct and that I ended up being all stressed over nothing.
Evo9
My indie bill for the job was ~ $1K
Job included:
New tensioner
New power steering pulley
New belt
Labor to install above parts and to remove broken bolt which was broken in block. I believe they used some type of 'bolt-extractor'/easy-out tool to remove broken bolt from block w/o damaging the treads in block.
I was so stressed thinking that removing the broken bolt piece from block was going to be a nightmare. But tech assured me it was not a 'big deal' and that they remove broken fasteners like this all the time. I'm glad his assessment was correct and that I ended up being all stressed over nothing.
Evo9
#7
I had posted in the duplicate thread you started, but will move that post over here.
I think the threads on that bolt are normal. The reason it got easier when you tightened it is because that's when the bolt sheared off and the forces of the belt running on it when you started the engine, finished it off.
Seems like this just recently happened to another member here. You're going to have to remove the tensioner and belt and somehow get enough access to the front of that bolt to remove it, probably by drilling the center and using an easy-out. You may need a compact 90 degree drill and some short drill bits like this setup.
You might be able to get a bit more working room or better access from underneath and possibly a better angle by loosening the motor mount bolts so the rear of the engine drops down. Might even need to take them all the way off and support the motor with a jack.
Looks like this is going to be a PITA, but will obviously need to be fixed.
I think the threads on that bolt are normal. The reason it got easier when you tightened it is because that's when the bolt sheared off and the forces of the belt running on it when you started the engine, finished it off.
Seems like this just recently happened to another member here. You're going to have to remove the tensioner and belt and somehow get enough access to the front of that bolt to remove it, probably by drilling the center and using an easy-out. You may need a compact 90 degree drill and some short drill bits like this setup.
You might be able to get a bit more working room or better access from underneath and possibly a better angle by loosening the motor mount bolts so the rear of the engine drops down. Might even need to take them all the way off and support the motor with a jack.
Looks like this is going to be a PITA, but will obviously need to be fixed.
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#9
Thank you for the input guys. 1k would be a steep bill for a broken bolt but you gotta do what it takes some times. Petza thank you for the delayed response and sorry for the double post - my first post didn't show up for 2 hours after creation. I will have to look into lowering the engine. The thought scares me a little.