Brake Quote shock
#31
DIY is not hard, assuming you have proper tools and equipment (jack, jack stands etc.). So much help online with YouTube videos etc. When I did mine, for giggles I priced parts at the dealership. Parts alone through the dealership would have been over 2x what I ended up buying the parts for from SunCoast.
I enjoy working on the cars, and there is some sense of satisfaction when you are done (if you don't screw anything up!). Plus, the money you save more than covers the cost of tools you may need, which you can also use in the future!
I enjoy working on the cars, and there is some sense of satisfaction when you are done (if you don't screw anything up!). Plus, the money you save more than covers the cost of tools you may need, which you can also use in the future!
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jkoravos (09-12-2019)
#33
I'm interested as well. I seem to recall someone had a sheet for all the different models
Also it sounds like people replace the rotors if they have a lip on the edge. Why? That small lip is just where the pads do not meet the rotor, the new pads shouldn't be affected. Someone have a good reason to replace rotors with a raised lip?
Also it sounds like people replace the rotors if they have a lip on the edge. Why? That small lip is just where the pads do not meet the rotor, the new pads shouldn't be affected. Someone have a good reason to replace rotors with a raised lip?
ETA: it also appears that the .2 OEM rotors have wear indicator dimples on the face. in line with the drill holes.
#35
I just checked my dimples with my caliper depth gauge, the fronts were about 0.5mm deep, rears were 1.0mm. I presume this means the fronts have about 25% life and the rears have 50%. This is based on the assumption the dimples are 2mm deep when new.
The dimple on the internal side was almost gone. I'm not sure why they are different depths, maybe to give the dealership/shop an indication that they are ready to be replaced?
The dimple on the internal side was almost gone. I'm not sure why they are different depths, maybe to give the dealership/shop an indication that they are ready to be replaced?
#36
$3100 is completely ridiculous. Telling you they can “get it down to $3100 from $3700” is their way of making you feel like you’re getting a good deal. Did you ask how they’re coming up with this number?
Last edited by Chris M.; 09-13-2019 at 09:41 AM.
#37
$1,065 all around labor and parts plus fluid flush - thats a steal! why would you decline that? You must have a lot of extra time and love to wrench. Maybe I should retire to Kentucky -
#39
I just recently did the job...
$308 + $279 Sebro slotted rotors
$188 + $161 Hawk Performance Ceramics
$57 3 quart ATE 200 fluid (did the clutch too)
$10 Permatex stick anti-squeal
$5 disc set screws
[probably should buy caliper bolts; next time]
[no wear indicators replaced; I just tied them out of the way since I'm always "under the car"]
------------------------------------------
$1008+ Total
$308 + $279 Sebro slotted rotors
$188 + $161 Hawk Performance Ceramics
$57 3 quart ATE 200 fluid (did the clutch too)
$10 Permatex stick anti-squeal
$5 disc set screws
[probably should buy caliper bolts; next time]
[no wear indicators replaced; I just tied them out of the way since I'm always "under the car"]
------------------------------------------
$1008+ Total
Last edited by jchapura; 09-13-2019 at 11:09 AM.
#40
Edited my post, quote was for fronts only. In any case the pads have plenty left on them and the rotors are fine.
#41
I just checked my dimples with my caliper depth gauge, the fronts were about 0.5mm deep, rears were 1.0mm. I presume this means the fronts have about 25% life and the rears have 50%. This is based on the assumption the dimples are 2mm deep when new.
The dimple on the internal side was almost gone. I'm not sure why they are different depths, maybe to give the dealership/shop an indication that they are ready to be replaced?
The dimple on the internal side was almost gone. I'm not sure why they are different depths, maybe to give the dealership/shop an indication that they are ready to be replaced?
Stock Porsche rotors have two different depth dimples on their faces. I always assumed they were brake wear indicators--the shallow as an indicator and the deep one as a warning.
I have brand new C2 rotors at home because I'm about to do this job again and I'll try to remember to measure them over the weekend.
Unfortunately, I don't have a mic with a deep enough reach to get to the dimples so I can't measure the thickness in situ. I'll have to measure the rotor thickness and subtract the depth of the dimples.
#42
Dimples aren't necessarily different depths front to back. Rotors and pads often wear more on one side than another. It's more common with sliding calipers than with our multi-piston calipers, but it still happens often.
Stock Porsche rotors have two different depth dimples on their faces. I always assumed they were brake wear indicators--the shallow as an indicator and the deep one as a warning.
I have brand new C2 rotors at home because I'm about to do this job again and I'll try to remember to measure them over the weekend.
Unfortunately, I don't have a mic with a deep enough reach to get to the dimples so I can't measure the thickness in situ. I'll have to measure the rotor thickness and subtract the depth of the dimples.
Stock Porsche rotors have two different depth dimples on their faces. I always assumed they were brake wear indicators--the shallow as an indicator and the deep one as a warning.
I have brand new C2 rotors at home because I'm about to do this job again and I'll try to remember to measure them over the weekend.
Unfortunately, I don't have a mic with a deep enough reach to get to the dimples so I can't measure the thickness in situ. I'll have to measure the rotor thickness and subtract the depth of the dimples.
The dimples on my car are different front to back, presumably due to different degree of wear. I assume they both started out at 2mm deep.
#43
I just did this job today, all four corners had new rotors, new caliper bolts, new brake pad 'hardware', I didn't replace the rear pads because they seemed to have quite a bit of life left, the front pads were heavily worn. I also did a full brake fluid bleed. I've done brake jobs before, this was the first time on the porsche, so I spent a bit of time cleaning, went through 2-3 cans of brake fluid and scrubbed everything pretty well. All told took me about 4.5 hours. If I had a 2 post lift, a pneumatic torque gun, and were just trying to get it done it would probably have taken me around 3 hours.
Biggest shock to me was how dirty and green the brake fluid was. I just got the car a couple months ago and so not sure when the last fluid change/bleed was but the fluid wasn't pretty. I purchased all OEM Porsche brand parts from Suncoast Porsche, the fluid, pads, rotors, dampeners, brake fluid, new caliper bolts and the spring tensioning hardware cost me around $1350 (that includes shipping and tax).
I do my own work because i really do enjoy it, I enjoy saving the 500-1000 in labor costs but I just like working on my own cars, learning about them and making stupid mistakes like not paying attention to the giant letters on the front of the rotors that clearly state "L" and "R" and not realizing it until after i put the wheel back on haha. Attention to detail, learning from mistakes, and seeing how everything is put together. While i was under there I got a good look at my CV boots/axles, suspension components and did a thorough inspection. Gave me lots of peace of mind knowing there weren't any other issues and I was pleased with how everything looked under there.
Biggest shock to me was how dirty and green the brake fluid was. I just got the car a couple months ago and so not sure when the last fluid change/bleed was but the fluid wasn't pretty. I purchased all OEM Porsche brand parts from Suncoast Porsche, the fluid, pads, rotors, dampeners, brake fluid, new caliper bolts and the spring tensioning hardware cost me around $1350 (that includes shipping and tax).
I do my own work because i really do enjoy it, I enjoy saving the 500-1000 in labor costs but I just like working on my own cars, learning about them and making stupid mistakes like not paying attention to the giant letters on the front of the rotors that clearly state "L" and "R" and not realizing it until after i put the wheel back on haha. Attention to detail, learning from mistakes, and seeing how everything is put together. While i was under there I got a good look at my CV boots/axles, suspension components and did a thorough inspection. Gave me lots of peace of mind knowing there weren't any other issues and I was pleased with how everything looked under there.
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Chris M. (09-14-2019)