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Time for a new clutch, should I do it myself?

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Old 07-26-2019, 01:11 AM
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dealy663
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Default Time for a new clutch, should I do it myself?

Hi

I have an '06 Carrera with about 50k miles. The mechanic said the car needs a new clutch the last time I brought it in. I'm considering doing it myself, but am on the fence. I've done a clutch replacement before on my e39 540i. I probably have most of the tools already, though that RMS seating tool looks like a one time usage kinda thing. The issue is that I don't have a lift. When I did the job on the bimmer I was on my back the whole time and it kinda sucked. I'm thinking I might get one of those QuickJack things (or would love to get a real 2 post lift, but don't have the space), but a lift would mean spending just as much as paying the mechanic.

Any thoughts on if this would be easier or harder than the clutch I did on the BMW a couple of years ago? Just thinking on this it seems like the lack of a driveshaft or an 8 foot long solid exhaust system would make the Porsche easier. Though I don't know if there are any super tricky items during this job that might make me wish I had just paid my local mechanic.

Oh and another question, how do you know when the flywheel is shot and in need of replacement? Last time when I did the BMW I replaced the flywheel just because I was already there.
Old 07-26-2019, 01:46 AM
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GoldenGorilla
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Like you, I've done the clutch before on other cars. Unless you have a pit or a lift, (or my lifted Jeep) its alot of time on your back. Personally I think pulling a driveshaft is easier than 2 transaxles. And every transmission I've pulled has at least one total PITA bolt and I know this one its no exception. Even with a quickjack, you won't be sitting under there any more than a lift and some jackstands. I have access to an awesome pit at my in-laws, but its still one of the services on a car that I'm willing to pay someone else to do even though I'm capable. That $ in labor is worth it to me.

The flywheel typically doesn't need to be replaced unless the clutch was allowed to wear too far and damaged the face and its expensive enough in this car to make you think twice. Unless you want to go to a lightweight flywheel, which has some negatives and some positives compared to the standard dual mass one or you've got 150,000 miles on it you should be fine. Resurfacing is recommended if you can find anyone to do it and can have the car down for that long.
Old 07-26-2019, 02:00 AM
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TheBruce
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I wanted to do mine as well but my indy told me without a lift it was "cruel and unusual punishment". He was right. It would have taken me 3-4 days without a lift.

They were nice enough to let me a) supply my own parts, b) use the lift and c) have the lead mechanic walk me through each step. And they only charged me for the hours. I was in by 8am and out by lunch so something like 4.5hrs billed. They normally charged 8hrs and the dealer charged 20hrs.

In conclusion, very doable by yourself but just get access to a buddy's lift, or pickup a quick jack with the money you will save.

I have a write up on it about my tips and learnings. I also have a ~20pg checklist I put together aggregating the Workshop Manual and a couple other DIY writeups. I can share if you are going to pull the trigger.
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Old 07-26-2019, 03:06 AM
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dynemd
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Flywheel is $406 at Rock Auto for a 2006 C2 LUK DMF024 LINK
(not THAT bad!)
Old 07-26-2019, 12:23 PM
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TheBruce
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At 50k you likely don't need a flywheel. Mine was fine. Closer to 100k its likely shot. You just need to test the springs back to confirm its in spec.
Old 07-26-2019, 12:26 PM
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millertimefl
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My clutch job from dealership for 2010 C4S was $1600 parts and labor. Seems to be easy clutch job. Not worth trouble doing it yourself without proper shop.
Old 07-26-2019, 02:49 PM
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yelcab
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About the same difficulty as your 540i, that is to say it sucks without a lift, and a transmission jack.
Old 07-26-2019, 08:36 PM
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Wolfk
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I just did my first 996-997 clutch job the other month, I thought it was fairly easy compared to front engined cars. What made it easier is there is no exhaust system in the way to remove, no shifter to deal with (just pop off shifter cables), no driveshaft to remove, (just remove axle to tranny bolts), starter does not need to be removed, tranny to engine bolts are fairly accessible if you tip the front of the engine down. However I do have a lift and tranny jack. If not using lift, you are still going to need the car pretty high in the air.

RMS installion tool can be made easily with pvc drain pipe fitting from Lowes

For the flywheel, disc surface is one area to be inspected but it is the rubber dual mass isolator thing that can go bad.



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