Need input to establish a preventative plan.
Thread Starter
Rennlist Member
Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 872
Likes: 121
From: South Eastern Canada
Need input to establish a preventative plan.
Alright guys, 2007 Targa 4 with 70000 miles after some 2 months of ownership, I have already adressed a few things that were obvious to me, like:
-The driver side door handle return spring bracket ( door handle had some loose).
-The rear wing/spoiler maintenance (cause it was slow and emited screetching sound)
- The famous clim switches removed and repainted (for obvious reasons).
- Cleaned and lubed the targa roof tracks. (Cause it was too slow for my taste)
- lubed all sealing rubbers.
- Changed the transmission and final drive fluids for peace of mind. But they both looked fresh 🙃 not the best money spent lets say!!!
So this brings me to what is next...
I know I will have to do:
- water pump
-idler pulleys
-serpentine belt
-engine mounts
- coil packs and spark plugs
When warm and idling, my rpm needle is a bit jumpy between 700 and 800 rpms. It hardly moves, but is definitely not fixed and steady like most other vehicles I've had. You cannot hear the engine revving up and/or down and the car drives great but I do feel a certain vibration at idle...But being new to Porsche, I don't know what to expect from almost sitting on the engine.... So I searched and found that it could be due to the maf being a bit dirty, but not enough to trigger a cel.
So I bought maf cleaner and did the job but it didn't change anything... As said, other than watching the needle move a little at idle, there is no sign of anything wrong...
So do you think I should then move to coil packs and spark plugs ???? Or because of the vibration, it could be the engine mounts??? Within the next year or two, all will be done, but need your input as to how to attack this task list.
Thanks for any input.
-The driver side door handle return spring bracket ( door handle had some loose).
-The rear wing/spoiler maintenance (cause it was slow and emited screetching sound)
- The famous clim switches removed and repainted (for obvious reasons).
- Cleaned and lubed the targa roof tracks. (Cause it was too slow for my taste)
- lubed all sealing rubbers.
- Changed the transmission and final drive fluids for peace of mind. But they both looked fresh 🙃 not the best money spent lets say!!!
So this brings me to what is next...
I know I will have to do:
- water pump
-idler pulleys
-serpentine belt
-engine mounts
- coil packs and spark plugs
When warm and idling, my rpm needle is a bit jumpy between 700 and 800 rpms. It hardly moves, but is definitely not fixed and steady like most other vehicles I've had. You cannot hear the engine revving up and/or down and the car drives great but I do feel a certain vibration at idle...But being new to Porsche, I don't know what to expect from almost sitting on the engine.... So I searched and found that it could be due to the maf being a bit dirty, but not enough to trigger a cel.
So I bought maf cleaner and did the job but it didn't change anything... As said, other than watching the needle move a little at idle, there is no sign of anything wrong...
So do you think I should then move to coil packs and spark plugs ???? Or because of the vibration, it could be the engine mounts??? Within the next year or two, all will be done, but need your input as to how to attack this task list.
Thanks for any input.
Pro
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 657
Likes: 98
From: Arlington, Texas
Think I’d do spark plugs (and coils if you think necessary). That’d let you have a look at serp belt and water pump while car is up. If you’re replacing the water pump prospectively, plan for coolant service also.
Rennlist Member
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 1,777
Likes: 113
From: The 909, CA
You are an a proper track for basic general maintenance. Making a 12 yr old 70K mile car idle as smooth as new could be a money pit. My car idles smooth but not perfect but again its an 06 with almost 80k miles.
Have someone run a code scanner (not just OBD but also Porsche specific like Durametric, Foxwell iCarsoft etc) and see what codes may be present. There could be so many other things to check like O2 sensors, fuel injectors, misfire counts etc. I agree with Swingwing on the plugs and coil packs as a start if there are no records that they have been changed. Look into any throttle body seals and related intake items like filters, vacuum lines, seals etc
Motor mounts will have little effect on idle vibration. Worn motor mounts on a 997 are really noticeable on fast sweeping corners with dips where you feel a double wag. Once for the initial movement and then a second movement when the motor moves again.
Have someone run a code scanner (not just OBD but also Porsche specific like Durametric, Foxwell iCarsoft etc) and see what codes may be present. There could be so many other things to check like O2 sensors, fuel injectors, misfire counts etc. I agree with Swingwing on the plugs and coil packs as a start if there are no records that they have been changed. Look into any throttle body seals and related intake items like filters, vacuum lines, seals etc
Motor mounts will have little effect on idle vibration. Worn motor mounts on a 997 are really noticeable on fast sweeping corners with dips where you feel a double wag. Once for the initial movement and then a second movement when the motor moves again.
Three Wheelin'
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 1,284
Likes: 417
From: Ontario
Do the plugs and the coil packs for sure ..You should notice a difference right there and use quality coil packs. The water pump is not necessary ..They can go but it is hit and miss seen cars with over 150k and never replaced it and when removed it was still fine. I never replaced mine yet and my Porsche master tech said if it aint broke don't fix it .
Thread Starter
Rennlist Member
Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 872
Likes: 121
From: South Eastern Canada
Alright, will look into coils and plugs. Any tips on doing the job without removing the exhaust??? Or is it one of those few things that a shop is better left doing???
Pro
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 657
Likes: 98
From: Arlington, Texas
Lots of advice in the DIY Tech section, also YouTube.
https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...placement.html
I recently did plugs on my 997.2. Took off the back bumper and removed the mufflers. It's not necessary but it certainly opens access up. I was familiar with muffler replacement because I installed my Fisters. For that job I didn't remove the bumper but it would've been much easier had I done so. Tip: When reinstalling the bumper make sure you reconnect the license plate light socket. I was admiring my work when I remembered I had forgot to do it. Double work!
https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...placement.html
I recently did plugs on my 997.2. Took off the back bumper and removed the mufflers. It's not necessary but it certainly opens access up. I was familiar with muffler replacement because I installed my Fisters. For that job I didn't remove the bumper but it would've been much easier had I done so. Tip: When reinstalling the bumper make sure you reconnect the license plate light socket. I was admiring my work when I remembered I had forgot to do it. Double work!
Thread Starter
Rennlist Member
Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 872
Likes: 121
From: South Eastern Canada
Thanks for the tips, although I am normally open to a challenge, I won't hide that the exhaust removal stresses me out. I am afraid to end up with seized bolts that require torch cutting and this is a tool I don't have nor know how to properly use. Being stuck at home with a partially dismantled vehicle part is not too inviting to me... dunno why?!?!? I look into it some more and gather the courage to tackle that job.
Thanks.
Thanks.
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Pro
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 657
Likes: 98
From: Arlington, Texas
Take it a step at a time. Doubt you'll see anything that requires torch work. Have a look around through the DIY section on this forum and also YouTube. You will see corroded bolts and nuts on exhaust pieces - that's expected because of heat cycles and exposure to water. When I did my muffler work one of the flange bolts snapped. It wasn't any big deal to get the stem out with a punch and hammer. Here's my post on muffler work:
https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...stall-diy.html
https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...stall-diy.html
Last edited by swingwing; May 27, 2019 at 07:55 PM. Reason: Added link.
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Three Wheelin'
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 1,631
Likes: 204
Changing sparkplug without removing the exhaust is a matter of having the right tools to get to the hard to reach ones. Just make sure you have different size extensions and joint adapter sockets before you tackle this job. Yes the DIY section and videos are super helpful.