Kudos to Phrog Phlyer for doing what we all should do.... research! I also contacted Liqui Moly via their German site, and they passed my inquiry to Mr. Braun of Liqui Moly NA.... I asked them about Ceratec compatibility with Mobil 1 and which A40 they recommended... their German site shows 9 A40 motor oils.

Peace
Bruce in Philly

Bruce,

thank you for thinking about using our products.

When you were searching for oils and additives you must have been on the international Liqui Moly website and that was the reason you had 9 choices as far as engine oils go. The site you need to look at is our US website @ www.liqui-moly.us . this way you only see products that you're able to purchase here.

Ceratec is usable/mixable with all commercially available oils including any Mobil1 oil. Ceratec is specifically designed this way so as not to cause any issues when used with other than Liqui Moly oils.

The oil choices is suggest are:

Synthoil Energy A40 0W40 engine oil. This oil has the official A40 Porsche approval and also the widest viscosity range allowed by Porsche to give the best protection at cold start as well as on a hot day.

Leichtlauf High Tech 5W40 also has the official Porsche approval but is offered in a 5W40 viscosity which you may want to use if the car is used in a hotter climate or more extreme driving conditions.

The third choice is Molygen New Generation 5W40. This oil is recommended for your Porsche and would be a great alternative for the track or for racing since it contains an antifriction additive that will lower friction and may improve horsepower. This oil is not compatible with Ceratec.

I also strongly suggest that you use our Engine Flush additive to clean the engine internals at every oil change. Engine Flush will remove any sludge, lacquer or carbon build-up at the piston ring area. This will help reduce oil consumption and increase compression while also give the new oil longer life since it will not have to start of by removing old by-products inside the engine. A very effective way of extending engine life and increasing performance

Please let me know if you have any other questions.

Best Regards,

Stefan Braun

Application Specialist
LIQUI MOLY – North America

Mobile: 714-913-3928
Email: stefan.braun@liqui-moly.com

 

It’s odd they say it can go in all oils and then list an oil it can’t go in?

 

I don't see that as odd, the oil is a specialty item... i just may contain the same or alternative ingredients... too much of a good thing.

Peace
Bruce in Philly

 

I have been using MoS2 for several years on all my cars - a 997.2, a classic air-cooled and other cars. I use it because I know the benefits of a solid lubricant, which molybdenum is one. This is especially important in cold starts.

On my last 997.2 oil change I started using Ceratec. Ceratec attaches to the moving contacting surfaces and lasts a long time. Liqui Moly recommends adding it again after 30k miles. Since I change oil every 5k miles (or 1 year) I will use MoS2 in those in-between Ceratec oil changes.

Both with Ceratec and MoS2 the engines run/sound smoother which is an indication of lower friction.

I also switched to using Liqui Moly Leichtlauf High Tech 5W40 motor oil in the 997.2 (after using Motul for many years) and another Liqui Moly motor oil in the air cooled engine. In the latter I have noticed a reduction in oil use.

I have spoken with Mr. Braun at Liqui Moly USA many times throughout the years. His expertise in engine lubrication and additive use is appreciated.

 

oh here we go.

The "running smoother" after an oil change or xyz oil additive.

Didn't happen, try again.

 

Had to switch Indy late last year. The new one who came highly recommended
by the PCA tech advisors uses LiquiMoly 0/40. I am now on my 2nd oil change
with the new stuff ( five years of M1 0/40)... Running smoother? Not that I can tell;
running cooler? no change; consuming less oil? marginally so, not enough to
make a difference. My new Indy told me that the only difference between
premium oils is the additives; he races and likes LiquiMoly 0/40. He even told me
that I could use the remaining M1 0/40 left in the qt. bottle to top up...Me, I
don't particularly give a hoot as long as the car runs right. Oil, Shmoil!

 

Forgot to mention '09 C2S cab 74k trouble free
miles except HPFP replaced in 2017.

 

Not in my 997 but my other car went from Eni (Agip) to Liqui Moly oil, gear lube and ceratec. No noticable difference in oil pressure, temperature or power. If anything I think it shifted better with the old gear oil.

I think it's likely a quality product but would not expect any significant gain over other synthetics. JMO

 

This is very interesting, and seems to point that there is no real improvement by using the LM product. Thanks for posting. Claims by folks who work at the company selling the stuff I’d be wary of.

 

I pointed out on a previous thread that the A40 additive package is a standardized package with few variations. Oil manufacturers can get approval by choosing a pre-approved additive package that meets the A40 requirements, just like oil manufacturers do for the GM Dexos approvals. I would expect most every A40 oil to be the same, and most do not have any Moly in they and use high levels of Calcium detergents.

If you look at most of the ILSAC grades of oils, Moly content is typically between 0 and 50 ppm.

I posted on this on the other thread yesterday:

Quote:

We did a little test last week. For those who do use the Ceratec, we mixed it with an oil that had no moly and no boron as to see how the additive blends and if the samples would hold the Ceratec in suspension:

 

I fully believe and expect to see engines running an oil with increased moly content to run smoother and have lower oil temperatures than an engine without these friction modifiers as you have confirmed.

What I'd love to see is someone who has run the LM base oil with and without the Ceratec additive and has done used oil analysis. That would be a definitive way to quantify the performance of the additive, but so far, my posts looking for anyone who has done used oil analysis on oil with the Ceratec additive has gone unanswered.

Understanding tribology, having spent the last 20 years researching this topic at length and working with Lake Speed Jr from Driven the last 15 years, you need to look at how these additives interact with surfaces in an internal combustion engine, I would discount their claims that the additive coats surfaces for a duration of up to 30k miles, even with changes between applications. Moly forms "glassy plates" on wear surface and these are continually wiped away from contact and by the detergents. If you remove the presence of the additive, you cannot regenerate these tribofilms.

If I were to use Ceratec, I would only use it in a LM base oil AND I would use it at every oil change.

If you run their flush product, as suggested by Mr. Braun and posted by another poster, you'll be further stripping the films built up by their additive, not to mention breaking stuff loose that can cause lifter and variocam issues. If you have a dirty engine, it's best to do several oil and filter changes over shorter intervals to gently clean the engine. I've seen too many engine flush products cause more harm than good.

 

Saw this in another thread. I won't vouch for the validity of this. Has anyone out there performed a VOA on CERATEC?

https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forum...pics/5083505/2
" VOA of Ceratec: http://bmwservice.livejournal.com/38285.html
Mo:5419 ppm
Bo: 359 ppm
Mainly ammonium molybdenum (strictly according to MSDS: 5%)"

 

I have used Liqui Moly since my engine was rebuilt. I will be getting my second full oil change (i.e., after break-in-oil) in another week. I have UOA records since I bought the car, and certainly since my engine was rebuilt. How many cycles without Ceratec do you think it would take to establish a reliable base line?

 

I use Ceratec with all my oil changes.

Besides Ceratec fluid looks like a bad head gasket, the stuff seems to be great.

I don't use it for HP increase, more preventing bore score and internal protection.
If you dip your finger in it, you need to wash your hands for days to get the lube off.

 

If you ran one oil change cycle of 1000 miles or more without Ceratec, that should be good enough to flush the engine. Then do another cycle of 2000 miles min on LM w/o Ceratec and sample. Repeat with the Ceratec and the same mileage and resample. That should give a baseline of performance of the oil with and without Ceratec. PM me if you want to discuss further.

It would be great to have someone with a stock engine that hasn't been rebuilt to run the same test.