dfdolan

Thanks for suggesting this and it's a good lesson that I shouldn't trust a test that I haven't replicated a couple of times to verify. I just repeated the test to cycle on the electrical system, wait 15 seconds, turn it off, wait 10 seconds and try to start. When I tried this over the weekend it seemed to really isolate and exacerbate the slow start and the engine cranked 8-9 seconds, struggled to life, stalled, then started.

This time, it wasn't as labored and still cranked ~4 seconds but fired up without the stumbling, combustion issues that it had over the weekend with this test. So, I would say cycling on the electrical in this test really doesn't impact the issue, which sounds consistent with losing pressure between the HPFP and LPFP.

swingwing

OP, are you seeing Check Engine light, and if so have you used an OBD scan tool to check for fault codes?

rap

Could it be your starter?

dfdolan

No warning or error lights at all.

dfdolan

The starter cranks the engine like a jackhammer. There doesn't seem to be any problem with juice and effectiveness cranking the engine.

okie981

I had a direct injected BMW 3.0 L in a 2012 model 335is that developed a slow-to-start problem. Dealer replaced all injectors under warranty, problem gone.

swingwing

Have you had the car scanned for any stored fault codes? You can use a simple scan tool or a more sophisticated one like iCarsoft, Schwaben, Durametric. Have you been using any fuel injector cleaner? These DI injectors are very small and sensitive to any deposits as the tips are right there exposed to the high temps in the cylinders. Your situation's a stumper, as you say no Check Engine light. I have an '09 C2 with 41k miles and it leaps to life when asked.

dfdolan

My Porsche Dealer did a lot of tests for the issue about 6 months ago when they replaced the battery because they couldn't find anything else wrong, and they did find some electrical issue that could be implicated in the slow start symptom. I was skeptical since it absolutely does not seem like any issue with the power to the starter or the starter and the car cranks like a jackhammer. It just used to start in < 1 second and over the past 1.5 years has gone to 6-7 seconds when its sat for a day or more.

I presume they scanned it in their exploration but don't really know and will be asking a lot more questions next visit. I have not done anything to clean the fuel injectors beyond all the scheduled maintenance and service.

The most likely response so far sounds like there is a slow leak allowing the connector between the HPFP and LPFP to lose prime as it sits over time. Once it starts it runs fine so both HPFP and LPFP seem like they have to be pumping just fine.

swingwing

Nah, there's no leak between fuel tank and HPFP. If there were you'd smell it. There's no "prime" between low-pressure side and the HPFP. When energized the LPFP turns on for 3 seconds then delivery rate is controlled by voltage from the DME. The LPFP supplies fuel to the HPFP at a constant 5.0 bar. Where do you live and what kind of fuel do you use? For interim my recommendation is to run some injector cleaner with next few tanks. Lots of products out there - Techron, LubriMoly, others. I use AMSOIL P.i.

dfdolan

Thank you all for the helpful comments and leads. I ran a couple of bottles of fuel injector cleaner but it had no effect and at the same time had the HPFP diagnosed and confirmed it wasn't putting out the specified pressure. Had it replaced with a factory built one and it's firing up once again in less than a second, just like the good old days!

ManoTexas

Bruce, recommend getting this wallet and putting in front pocket (I have no affiliation with vendor). Have one and love it. I’ve used this and money clip for years, and if fold hundy’s they’ll fit in middle slot. My rear bulges enough without anything in it. Back pockets too easy to pick. Taking wallet out in car too easty to lose or forget.

https://www.krsaddleshop.com/Saddle-...Slim-Card-Case

PS: your point on DSC is correct. First step is module. Then decide. I don’t know if struts/shocks need to leak to qualify as “bad”. I just know I’ve had cars where didn’t like suspension but no leaking. Replaced with and loved results, eg stock Z3 with 85k and put on Bilstein HD and totally different car.