Brake Question
#1
Brake Question
997.2s 2011. Got Sebro slotted rotors and pfc pads for track use. Been driving sparingly now that the weather is nice. I have noticed that I’m getting some squealing while driving with no brake pressure applied. Is this normal? I got the calipers rebuilt last fall so I wouldn’t think it’s a stuck piston in one of the calipers? Thanks in advance!
#2
Track pads can be noisier than street pads. Pads never retract from the disc when you let off the brakes, they just stop pressing on it so if the pads have the characteristics of squealing, it's not unusual from them to also make a little noise when used on the street as you describe. How were they installed though - was any pad anti-squeal used on the backs of them or the OEM pronged dampeners, or were they just dropped into the caliper. If the latter, it's not surprising they would have some chatter when in use, which is what makes the harmonic noise.
On your brakes, do you have to remove the caliper to change the pads or just the lock pin and you can pull them out from the top. If you have to physically remove the caliper and you'll be changing pads for track use vs street use, and doing this a few times a year, it would be worthwhile for you to invest in one of Rennline's stainless caliper stud mounting kits so instead of taking the caliper off with the larger Axial bolts that screw into the wheel carrier (which is aluminum), you can put studs into the Radial bolt positions (go though the top of the caliper) and then just pop the caliper off to change the pads and lock it back down with the reusable 12 point stainless nuts - this also keeps you from undoing and reattaching using the primary caliper bolts, which are steel threaded into aluminum, and will eventually require a new wheel carrier.
I bring all of this up because you can't really use the OEM pronged dampeners unless you are removing the caliper to change the pads, as there's not enough space to extract them with the pads engaged into the caliper pistons. You would need to use the setup mentioned above to do it that way, or if you just slip the pads out the top using the retaining pin method, you should look at high-temperature anti-squeal, adhesive pad dampeners that you can peel and stick to the back of the brake pad carrier, as that will absorb the harmonic that causes the squeal, but allow you to slide the pads in and out to change them for track vs street.
On your brakes, do you have to remove the caliper to change the pads or just the lock pin and you can pull them out from the top. If you have to physically remove the caliper and you'll be changing pads for track use vs street use, and doing this a few times a year, it would be worthwhile for you to invest in one of Rennline's stainless caliper stud mounting kits so instead of taking the caliper off with the larger Axial bolts that screw into the wheel carrier (which is aluminum), you can put studs into the Radial bolt positions (go though the top of the caliper) and then just pop the caliper off to change the pads and lock it back down with the reusable 12 point stainless nuts - this also keeps you from undoing and reattaching using the primary caliper bolts, which are steel threaded into aluminum, and will eventually require a new wheel carrier.
I bring all of this up because you can't really use the OEM pronged dampeners unless you are removing the caliper to change the pads, as there's not enough space to extract them with the pads engaged into the caliper pistons. You would need to use the setup mentioned above to do it that way, or if you just slip the pads out the top using the retaining pin method, you should look at high-temperature anti-squeal, adhesive pad dampeners that you can peel and stick to the back of the brake pad carrier, as that will absorb the harmonic that causes the squeal, but allow you to slide the pads in and out to change them for track vs street.
#4
DO NOT PRESS ON THE BRAKES WITH THE PADS NOT INSTALLED IN ANY OF THE WHEELS AS YOU'LL FORCE THE PISTONS OUT OF THE CALIPERS AND HAVE A MESS. That's why I say do one wheel at a time.
#5
I'm about to change out my front pads. They have the OEM pronged dampers attached with the original adhesive. I want to reuse the OEM pronged dampers and can easily remove them from the old pads without damage. But how do I get them to adhere to the new pads?
I'm thinking clean the old adhesive off the OEM pronged dampers, insert the cleaned OEM pronged adapters into the caliper pistons, apply some Permatex disc brake quiet to the back of the pads, insert the pads into the calipers, and step on the pedal to seat them. Is this the best way? And should I wait for the Permatex to dry or install immediately after putting it onto the back of the brake pads?
I'm thinking clean the old adhesive off the OEM pronged dampers, insert the cleaned OEM pronged adapters into the caliper pistons, apply some Permatex disc brake quiet to the back of the pads, insert the pads into the calipers, and step on the pedal to seat them. Is this the best way? And should I wait for the Permatex to dry or install immediately after putting it onto the back of the brake pads?
#6
#7
Well, it can be used 2 ways - I'm sure there's a warning to "not ingest" on it so that would be one way, or for a less permanent solution, maybe apply it to her lips and let it setup. Alternatively, you could just upgrade the stereo so you can't hear the brake or the wife chatter.
Trending Topics
#8
I'm about to change out my front pads. They have the OEM pronged dampers attached with the original adhesive. I want to reuse the OEM pronged dampers and can easily remove them from the old pads without damage. But how do I get them to adhere to the new pads?
I'm thinking clean the old adhesive off the OEM pronged dampers, insert the cleaned OEM pronged adapters into the caliper pistons, apply some Permatex disc brake quiet to the back of the pads, insert the pads into the calipers, and step on the pedal to seat them. Is this the best way? And should I wait for the Permatex to dry or install immediately after putting it onto the back of the brake pads?
I'm thinking clean the old adhesive off the OEM pronged dampers, insert the cleaned OEM pronged adapters into the caliper pistons, apply some Permatex disc brake quiet to the back of the pads, insert the pads into the calipers, and step on the pedal to seat them. Is this the best way? And should I wait for the Permatex to dry or install immediately after putting it onto the back of the brake pads?
#9
Ok, while changing out the wheels for an upcoming track event, I R/R pads and installed the shims on both front and back, along with a healthy layer of permatex. The squealing is all but gone! No more sounding like a school bus!!! Thanks everyone!
#10