So, was at my Porsche mechanic for oil change and brake fluid... took my own Motul 5W40 and wanted to do oil analysis... he said why, I said worried about wear on the cylinders, and cylinder scoring etc... he said, almost exclusively, ALL 997.1 M97 engines he's seen with cylinder scoring were using 0W40 Mobil 1 engine oil... he strongly recommended against it, and said essentially must only use Motul, Total, or Lubro Moly 5W40 on these engines to protect the coating.

Now, this guy's the best Porsche mechanic and shop in the province, they build cup cars and have been working on Porsche race cars in daytona, etc... so they know what they're talking about. Luckily, I've only used 0W40 once, and exclusively have used Motul or Total 5W40 since I've had the car at 6K miles.

Just sharing what he said, don't flame me if you're in love with your Mobil-1 oil...

 

Given a *lot* of car are serviced by a dealer, and a dealer uses M1 0w40, perhaps this isn't an indictment that M1 is causing the scoring as much as M1 is just along for the ride on the coating that fails.



With a plethora of really *really* good oils out there, I have no dog in the fight and have used a variety of them in all my cars, but I also don't shy away from M1 either. Given my car is still under warranty, dealer uses it.

Should I then drop 8qt of brand new oil to put in something else? Seems like BITOG OCD to me

- b

 

Of the 3 oils I've run in my 997s, the UOA reports I do at every oil change showed the Mobil 1 experiencing the fastest breakdown of the additive package, lowering the viscosity and the Flashpoint. Happens in as few as 3,000 miles.

If you're under warranty, use Motul xcess 8100 which is Porsche A40 approved, and if out of warranty, Driven DT40 which increases the Zinc, Phosphorous, and Moly.

 

I think there are probably better fluids to use for weekend racers and auto crossers and backroad higher speed driving than M1. Seems like a lot of average drivers go 3-4k miles a year total, so if M1 is changed yearly after 3-4k miles, I don't see why that isn't adequate. Is it best to use a more sheer resistant 5W-40 to drive in subzero temps all winter or the thinner 0W-40 Porsche fills with from the factory? Maybe a good compromise is M1 in the winter and 5W40 for the fair weather only drivers.

 

Of course the engines that have had scoring had been using M1 because that is the lube that is Porsche recommended and used by Porsche dealers. Also the vast majority of engines that don't have bore scoring have been using M1 as well.

 

i know less than nothing about oil and it’s properties but my Indy, a 25 year plus Porsche tech echoes your mechanic’s opinion. He switched from M1 to Lubri Moly in his shop because he found that a great many of the cars he services (Porsche, BMW, Benz) would consume oil between changes and need to come back and be “topped off”, a service he offers for free. With the volume of customers he has he said it became very costly to have to take a tech off of a car just to top off another customer. He switched to Lubri Moly and has almost eliminated the top offs as the cars are just not consuming it like they did the M1. Maybe the heat we are exposed to here in Houston has something to do with it but he is a believer.

 

Logic and reason in an oil thread.


Say it ain't so Joe.

 

There are plenty of oil threads to discuss properties, the good news is we have choices. The bad news is P car dealers use it and lets face it: vast majority of P cars are serviced at dealers. Us DIY OCD types are statistically not the norm

For street cars I am not: concerned by M1. I have UoAs from my own cars that are in spec (and in other cars that 'kill' M1 such as Subarus. Mine ran it 150K just peachy).

The one knock on M1 is its a light 40 grade: it will sheer to a 30 at times, but its not universal. Perhaps this contributes to consumption though engines do consume oil despite people thinking otherwise.

- b

 

Ezzakly. Post hoc ergo propter hoc.

All of the cars that suffer from bore scoring have tires, therefore tires must cause bore scoring.

 

If you look at the factory recommendations it says to change a 997's oil every 20,000 miles or 2 years. By my calculations.....for someone like me who has run M1 religiously in all of my vehicles for 20yrs with 3000k mile change intervals the factory recommendation of 2yr/20,000mi is the equivalent of changing your underwear every 6.66 days. At these intervals the rate of bore scoring is equally proportional to skid marks in your underwear. Just my 2 cents

 

If you look at the factory recommendations it says to change a 997's oil every 20,000 miles or 2 years. By my calculations.....for someone like me who has run M1 religiously in all of my vehicles for 20yrs with 3000k mile change intervals the factory recommendation of 2yr/20,000mi is the equivalent of changing your underwear every 6.66 days. At these intervals the rate of bore scoring is equally proportional to skid marks in your underwear. Just my 2 cents

 

Someone please explain this to me: A car company makes an engine, tells you
to fill it with XYZ oil but also tells you that Abc, Def,Ghi, etc also work in their car.
Some of the company's product have exhibited some particular problems. Since the company
uses XYZ oil and all of its representatives and sellers of its product also do. Ergo, XYZ oil
is the culprit and Independent shops and mechanics that have so much more wisdom and experience
than the Mezgers, Achleitners, Rorhls of the said company, recommend not using that oil because
its use leads to disaster.

Sorry, but I am just a little lost here. I can see preferences but this hysteria? Haven't we had enough of
hysteria, what with RMS, IMS, and now Bore scoring. Cui bono?

 

This is the best post ever

 

Oil, like gas meets a minimun spec level. Suppliers pay or discount to be the oem choice.
I change the oil every 5k anyway so am not worried about it.

 

fyi : Mobil one in Canada is very different from Mobil One in US.