Originally Posted by ADias

Keep it under 4krpm, of course do not lug the engine, and do not stab the throttle; if you need to accelerate downshift 1 cog and accelerate gently. But... even when you see the oil temp reaching 200F I would not go full on, because the engine block temp still is not uniform, right when the gauge reaches 200F, in the very cold ambient.

Originally Posted by Balr14

You are describing a car that isn't much fun to drive except down south. I can count the number of times I saw the oil reach 200F last year, on one hand. It is consistently 175F except in heavy traffic, where it becomes academic. I'm not saying you are wrong, it's just one more reason I may have made a bad choice.

Originally Posted by Bruce In Philly

I am not giving any advice because I have no clue..... I follow my own neurosis and my owner's manual, and for oil, I use Mobil 1, one of the A40 oils Porsche recommends in my owner's manual. I change my oil at 5K because I am neurotic and I think at 6K miles or more, my engine sounds different... in other words, when I change my oil at say 7K, the engine immediately sounds quieter... so at 5K, the sound is neutral after a change. Am I doing something "good"? I have no idea. As I noted above, I believe (couch potato reasoning) that the aftermarket can formulate "better" oil. I don't know what that is, nor do I really care. Is the Porsche certification a money grab scam? I don't think so at all but I don't have the science to back that up. I reacted to Mr Petza's comment because our airwaves and 'net are full of conspiracy theory and they irk me. Are folks deluded when they use an alternative oil? I have no idea and don;t care. I also do not read oil threads.... sorry I weighed in.

Peace
Bruce in Philly

Originally Posted by Bruce In Philly

Boy, the cynicism.... I don't jump to that level that quickly. First, Porsche has a real issue in serving its customers... the company sells product globally and desires its customers use a good product they can buy globally... and from model to model, year to year. I would assume, Porsche does not want their customers using sub-quality product. This pretty much eliminates, small niche oil formulators.

Further, all car makers have been moving to longer-life fluids... I really don't know why, but I do remember 3K oil changes as prescribed by makers. Again, this may eliminate small niche oil formulators who are trying to address a particular need or issue. Prescribing an oil and a certification system is good business and I suspect it is intended to keep warranty claims down too. I just don;t believe you can receive an A40 certification by simply writing a check to Porsche.

Matching oil to an engine requires development and work..... while this does not mean Mobil 1 A40 is the best you can put into our cars for all uses, I just don't at all believe it is poison. I get that as these cars age, the wear and weaknesses of a "new" engine like the 9A1 can not be fully understood in bench development or mules. Information will emerge and yes, it makes sense to me that a "better" oil formulation can better be matched to the realities of use. However, I still don't believe Mobil 1 is poison or the certification system is a profit scheme (like Porsche-branded pens).

If you were Porsche senior management, you want to know what to expect in warranty claims among many other aspects of ownership and dealer engagement. Senior management specifies to engineering a mileage to design for among many other design and performance specs... would you be happy if your engineers were developing engines on anything other than what you tell customers to buy? Now you have to kinda remove the M96/M97 out of this equation a bit because Porsche developed those engines under severe financial duress.....

In my little brain, I feel that if you are concerned about oil, then just change it more often... I do ever 5K. Porsche's development of their engines with Mobil 1 is real. Whether the car was developed to the oil or visa versa years ago....... I just don;t believe it is poison. Yes, better exists and can be formulated by the aftermarket..... but jeez. C'mon.

Peace
Bruce in Philly

Originally Posted by C4SDayton

If M1 breaks down in 3k miles at $5 a quart and the DT40 for double that lasts 5k or 1 year, it is cheaper for the DIYer to use M1 at 1/3 or less the manufacturer recommendation for OCI and get adequate protection. A filter should last at least 2 fills or 6k miles whether paper or spin on. What is better for us driving in 10-30 degree weather daily, a 0W or 5W oil? I'd expect a $10-12 a quart product to be better although some expensive boutique oils do not necessarily meet the hype. I assume the A40 standard is more a minimum for Porsche, and some meet it and others beat it by varying amounts. If I had a .2 I'd probably care about the SN plus stuff more.

Originally Posted by Bruce In Philly

I didn't realize the A40 spec is a range of characteristics.... interesting. So does a product with more ZDDP mean less life on a catalytic converter? For those of us who keep cars a long time, that should be factored into the price/frequency equation.

Peace
Bruce in Philly

Originally Posted by dgjks6

Here is what I find weird about oil threads in a Porsche forum. If you recommend using a non Porsche fluid for the cooling system, differential, manual transmission, PDK, etc - people will go crazy

But for the engine, by far the most expensive part to replace - people will advocate using non recommended oils.

Weird

Originally Posted by stripersteve

As a total rookie, I am pretty confused on this whole oil thing. I won't need an oil change until later this year, so I have some time to get smarter . From the bore scoring threads, sounds like the Joe Gibbs racing oils may be better for my 997.2 , but Mobil 1 seems to be what Porsche has recommended. I don't have a problem paying more for special oil if it might eliminate engine problems down the road.