rmstar

For some of us who are hoarding a buttload of Mobil 1 0W40, I don't see it on Mobile site list. Check this.
https://mobiloil.com/en/article/why-...spi-protection
Time to switch to use new oil with the API SN Plus donut symbol.

rjaudi

So 0w40 european formula is not on the SN plus list. I am definitely switch to Driven DI40 now.

rtl5009

avonted

Which Motul oil do you use?

rtl5009

rmstar

For some of us who like to know more about LSPI
https://www.infineuminsight.com/arti...-auto-ignition

Before you head out to switch oil to combat LSPI, make sure it still works until your next oil change.
https://www.lubrizoladditives360.com...n-Interval.pdf

An excerpt from the article: " A total of four oils were tested: a baseline oil – all calcium detergent system (poor LSPI performance); Formulating solution 1 – calcium is reduced and magnesium is added; Formulating solution 2 – molybdenum dialkyldithiocarbamate (MoDTC) is added; and finally Formulating solution 3 – the addition of titanium. The results of the tests found that all three formulation strategies were successful at mitigating LSPI in fresh oil; however, following the aging process, the propensity of LSPI was observed to be very different. Both formulation 2 and 3 showed very poor LSPI durability, while formulation 1 was the only oil to continue to mitigate LSPI when aged. “This is an important finding – that not all oils which pass a fresh oil certification test may mitigate LSPI over the full oil drain interval,” concludes Michlberger"

Petza914

​​​​​​... so was the Mobil oil that resulted in your scored bore. To me that A40 approval means someone paid a bunch of money to Porsche to receive a certification, and who knows how extensive the testing was done or to what mileage, and on how many engines. to receive it. I'd rather take advice from the guy who has taken more damaged 997 motors apart then anyone, and that advice is

Driven DT40 5W/40 for the 997.1 motors and
Driven DI40 0W/40 for the 997.2 motors

Christian Stark

Bruce In Philly

Boy, the cynicism.... I don't jump to that level that quickly. First, Porsche has a real issue in serving its customers... the company sells product globally and desires its customers use a good product they can buy globally... and from model to model, year to year. I would assume, Porsche does not want their customers using sub-quality product. This pretty much eliminates, small niche oil formulators.

Further, all car makers have been moving to longer-life fluids... I really don't know why, but I do remember 3K oil changes as prescribed by makers. Again, this may eliminate small niche oil formulators who are trying to address a particular need or issue. Prescribing an oil and a certification system is good business and I suspect it is intended to keep warranty claims down too. I just don;t believe you can receive an A40 certification by simply writing a check to Porsche.

Matching oil to an engine requires development and work..... while this does not mean Mobil 1 A40 is the best you can put into our cars for all uses, I just don't at all believe it is poison. I get that as these cars age, the wear and weaknesses of a "new" engine like the 9A1 can not be fully understood in bench development or mules. Information will emerge and yes, it makes sense to me that a "better" oil formulation can better be matched to the realities of use. However, I still don't believe Mobil 1 is poison or the certification system is a profit scheme (like Porsche-branded pens).

If you were Porsche senior management, you want to know what to expect in warranty claims among many other aspects of ownership and dealer engagement. Senior management specifies to engineering a mileage to design for among many other design and performance specs... would you be happy if your engineers were developing engines on anything other than what you tell customers to buy? Now you have to kinda remove the M96/M97 out of this equation a bit because Porsche developed those engines under severe financial duress.....

In my little brain, I feel that if you are concerned about oil, then just change it more often... I do ever 5K. Porsche's development of their engines with Mobil 1 is real. Whether the car was developed to the oil or visa versa years ago....... I just don;t believe it is poison. Yes, better exists and can be formulated by the aftermarket..... but jeez. C'mon.

Peace
Bruce in Philly

96Tiger

So Bruce, we both have 2009 997.2 S models but you've got 100,000 miles more than me so obviously you're doing something right. Have you always used Mobil 1? I have for the past 2 1/2 years but now I'm not sure what to do.

C4SDayton

So almost all M1 oils are SN plus, but not 0W40. I assume they will rectify that given how many people use M1 for European cars because they price reasonably compared with many others. I don't mind spending money on maintenance but $100 for just 8-9 qts of any oil vs $42 for M1 when I get it on sale is a bit much. It is not gold. I actually would not mind if I did once a year or 10k oil change, but since manufacturer recommendations do not apply to German cars, I will be doing 2 changes a year every 5k so my engine doesn't lunch itself. Of course that may not prevent a catastrophic event anyway regardless of driving like granny for 10 miles every time I drive to warm it up.

ADias

You can drive at highway speed (under 4kRPM) warming the engine slowly and you are not driving like granny... The error is to start the car and rev it cold to high RPMs or sudden rev changes from any RPM regime.

It used to be that drivers had a sense of how the engine pulls. That sense always minimizes engine wear.

C4SDayton

I have been driving in -5 to 50 degree weather for 3 months, more often in 30's. No problem warming up slowly to work, but work is 1 mile from 70 mph on highway home, so I drive that mile easily then it's 2900rpm for 7-8 miles until oil temp "reads" 200. If that is good enough safe warmup than I'm good, otherwise I guess I'll be in the higher range for BS risk. The driving like granny is the 8 miles to the highway from home going to work. And I'm ok taking chances with M1 oil for $5 a quart from Costco for a .1 anyway.

ADias

Keep it under 4krpm, of course do not lug the engine, and do not stab the throttle; if you need to accelerate downshift 1 cog and accelerate gently. But... even when you see the oil temp reaching 200F I would not go full on, because the engine block temp still is not uniform, right when the gauge reaches 200F, in the very cold ambient.

Bruce In Philly

I am not giving any advice because I have no clue..... I follow my own neurosis and my owner's manual, and for oil, I use Mobil 1, one of the A40 oils Porsche recommends in my owner's manual. I change my oil at 5K because I am neurotic and I think at 6K miles or more, my engine sounds different... in other words, when I change my oil at say 7K, the engine immediately sounds quieter... so at 5K, the sound is neutral after a change. Am I doing something "good"? I have no idea. As I noted above, I believe (couch potato reasoning) that the aftermarket can formulate "better" oil. I don't know what that is, nor do I really care. Is the Porsche certification a money grab scam? I don't think so at all but I don't have the science to back that up. I reacted to Mr Petza's comment because our airwaves and 'net are full of conspiracy theory and they irk me. Are folks deluded when they use an alternative oil? I have no idea and don;t care. I also do not read oil threads.... sorry I weighed in.

Peace
Bruce in Philly