Clutch/IMS service Any other “While I am in there”?
#1
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
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2005 C2S, early February build date and engine # indicates older IMS. I have 48k on it, so figured I would do the clutch/IMS. I am having a Sachs clutch kit, LN IMS Pro bearing, LN spin on filter, and X51 baffle installed. It will all be done by a local Indy who is a certified installer, so he checks the cylinder walls as part of the pre-check, which will be a good time to toss in the X51 baffle.
Is there anything else I should consider doing while he is in there? Shifter cables/bushings, would they be easier?
Is there anything else I should consider doing while he is in there? Shifter cables/bushings, would they be easier?
#2
Burning Brakes
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2005 C2S, early February build date and engine # indicates older IMS. I have 48k on it, so figured I would do the clutch/IMS. I am having a Sachs clutch kit, LN IMS Pro bearing, LN spin on filter, and X51 baffle installed. It will all be done by a local Indy who is a certified installer, so he checks the cylinder walls as part of the pre-check, which will be a good time to toss in the X51 baffle.
Is there anything else I should consider doing while he is in there? Shifter cables/bushings, would they be easier?
Is there anything else I should consider doing while he is in there? Shifter cables/bushings, would they be easier?
Do you know if you are having any issues when starting your car because the starter cable is an issue on some 997.1’s and the cable is cheap but the labor is $$$
They can check if it’s working properly by checking voltage readings between certain points.
I thought I had the cable issue but it was my starter which I replaced
#3
Three Wheelin'
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My suggestions of things you might want to also inspect/replace:
1. Check your transmission mount bushing and make sure they replace the two foam vibration pads on either side of the mount. The foam degrades and they typically disintegrate when removing the transmission.
2. Yes, check your starter/alternator cable (is the car slow to start when hot). It would save a lot of effort replacing that when the transmission is out. The cable itself is only $100.
3. I think the M97 has the Air oil separator in the front of the engine. On the M96 its on the back and much easier to replace if the transmission is out.
4. Change the transmission fluid. I changed mine last month to Mobilube PTX and believe its "must-do" maintenance for all 997s. Clears hard shifts into 1st and 2nd when cold, and for me it cleared up a slight grind I would hear when shifting into 4th when the engine was cold.
5. Check your slave cylinder. The rubber boot on the piston can crack and fall off with age. This allows the metal piston to ride directly on your release arm. If it scores up the release arm you need to replace that too, or the scratches will just tear the new boot. Unfortunately you can't replace just the boot, you need to replace the whole slave cylinder.
6. Replace the RMS. Its so cheap I would replace it even if its not leaking.
7. Check the flywheel. I didnt replace mine because it checked out out. We just cleaned and polished it.
1. Check your transmission mount bushing and make sure they replace the two foam vibration pads on either side of the mount. The foam degrades and they typically disintegrate when removing the transmission.
2. Yes, check your starter/alternator cable (is the car slow to start when hot). It would save a lot of effort replacing that when the transmission is out. The cable itself is only $100.
3. I think the M97 has the Air oil separator in the front of the engine. On the M96 its on the back and much easier to replace if the transmission is out.
4. Change the transmission fluid. I changed mine last month to Mobilube PTX and believe its "must-do" maintenance for all 997s. Clears hard shifts into 1st and 2nd when cold, and for me it cleared up a slight grind I would hear when shifting into 4th when the engine was cold.
5. Check your slave cylinder. The rubber boot on the piston can crack and fall off with age. This allows the metal piston to ride directly on your release arm. If it scores up the release arm you need to replace that too, or the scratches will just tear the new boot. Unfortunately you can't replace just the boot, you need to replace the whole slave cylinder.
6. Replace the RMS. Its so cheap I would replace it even if its not leaking.
7. Check the flywheel. I didnt replace mine because it checked out out. We just cleaned and polished it.
#4
Racer
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Here's my list:
Water pump
AOS
If you open your engine, timing chains, timing chain guide rails (mine were noticeably worn at 47,000 miles), timing chain tensioner blade (I put in LN Engineering)
Coolant expansion tank (much easier with the engine out -- mine was cracked, but not leaking, yet). If is original, it will crack, and it will leak.
Wiring harness, alternator to starter, maybe to battery, too, if there is a voltage drop.
Check your belt idler pulleys. I replaced mine.
Water pump
AOS
If you open your engine, timing chains, timing chain guide rails (mine were noticeably worn at 47,000 miles), timing chain tensioner blade (I put in LN Engineering)
Coolant expansion tank (much easier with the engine out -- mine was cracked, but not leaking, yet). If is original, it will crack, and it will leak.
Wiring harness, alternator to starter, maybe to battery, too, if there is a voltage drop.
Check your belt idler pulleys. I replaced mine.
#5
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
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Thanks guys! I am just dropping the tranny and the water pump was just done right before I bought the car and I did the fluid when I bought it, so that is all done.
Great advice on the starter cable, slave cylinder, and tranny bushings, I will be sure this is checked! The RMS is also part of the service, I just forgot to mention it.
Great advice on the starter cable, slave cylinder, and tranny bushings, I will be sure this is checked! The RMS is also part of the service, I just forgot to mention it.