Is crank pulley bolt reverse threaded ??
#1
Is crank pulley bolt reverse threaded ??
Doing a lit bit of tinkering and want to take off the main crank pulley. It's either a bit corroded to the pulley or it's reverse threaded. Just wanting to confirm before applying any excessive force.
Cheers!
Cheers!
#4
That sucked. Used a 15/16" 6 pt as it was a bit more snug that the 24mm. 15" breaker bar with 24" black iron extension and it was hard to break loose. My Jeeps hub at 240 lbs was piece of cake compare to this.
Rule of thumb is a new bolt but at $70+ is it worth it? Given the size hard to imagine it goes through a stretch at 50 ft lbs + 90deg. What do you suggest?
Rule of thumb is a new bolt but at $70+ is it worth it? Given the size hard to imagine it goes through a stretch at 50 ft lbs + 90deg. What do you suggest?
Last edited by BF951; 01-27-2019 at 09:43 PM. Reason: Spelling
#5
Bummer! I’m amazed the friggin bolt is so expensive. Was it corrosion or possible previous overtightning? How easily does the bolt screw in now without the pulley in place?
Answers to the above may provide you with your course of action.
Answers to the above may provide you with your course of action.
#6
There was an audible SNAP as it broke loose. Just some adhesion. No corrosion on the mating surfaces. It threads in and out easily and appears to be in great shape. Largest bolt I've seen on the car so far in size and heft. Larger than the front sub-frame carrier bolts.
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#9
Thanks for the feedback. I get the concept but am trying to understand how it would differ from continuing to use chassis bolts or even lug bolts as each time they are torqued it clearly causes a stretch.
Maybe I'm not getting it and my penalty is to buy another bolt.
Maybe I'm not getting it and my penalty is to buy another bolt.
#10
the problem.is that if that one backs off it can cause alot of damage.. if it breaks inside the engine the cranks is toast.. vs the chassis where u can always drill it out and put a timesert in..
torque to yield bolts are made to stretch.. that is how they clamp onto things.. once they stretch they will no longer have the same clamping force and will most likely fail..and since they are stretched they will likely eat the threads..
alot of people switch to arp head studs for that reason.. more expensive but you can re use..
torque to yield bolts are made to stretch.. that is how they clamp onto things.. once they stretch they will no longer have the same clamping force and will most likely fail..and since they are stretched they will likely eat the threads..
alot of people switch to arp head studs for that reason.. more expensive but you can re use..
#11
Appreciate the lesson. That makes sense. Love this forum.
New bolt is on it's way. The cost of a good bottle of bourbon and wine to get it here but worth it. Just need to wait for the single digit weather to pass.
Cheers!
New bolt is on it's way. The cost of a good bottle of bourbon and wine to get it here but worth it. Just need to wait for the single digit weather to pass.
Cheers!
#13
Not always. It is just another torque specification that high end engines have. IF the book says that it is one time use only, then replace it. IF not, re-use it with a bit of Loctite.