Another No start problem video attached
01-05-2019, 07:08 PM
#16
You said 10.99v at the starter, 12.4 at the battery, is that under load? Simultaneously? Obviously you can't read both at the same time but can take both separately while starting. I would expect minimal voltage drop to the starter with a good cable. I'm just throwing it out there as there have been threads out there about starter issues that were related to the cable and one would cause an issue with the other.
https://rennlist.com/forums/newreply...ply&p=15024690
https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...ter-cable.html
If I were a betting man I would guess the starter but there is the possibility you have a cable issue which could be causing issues with your starter and battery both.
https://rennlist.com/forums/newreply...ply&p=15024690
https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...ter-cable.html
If I were a betting man I would guess the starter but there is the possibility you have a cable issue which could be causing issues with your starter and battery both.
I will go ahead and replace the stater.
01-05-2019, 11:24 PM
#17
You've got a voltage problem. See how the warning lights in the dash all come on and then as soon as you turn the key, the complete dash goes dark. That's an indicator of a battery that is heavily discharged or a major cable being loose or corroded. You say this is the 3rd battery. I bet if you fully charge the battery or jump start it with a second battery that it starts fine and it's not the starter. Looks like you may have a parasitic drain that's heavily depleting the battery when parked.
Any aftermarket electronics installed, like stereo, BT, track data loggers, radar detector, etc? If so, they may be installed on a constant 12v circuit instead of a switched one.
Any aftermarket electronics installed, like stereo, BT, track data loggers, radar detector, etc? If so, they may be installed on a constant 12v circuit instead of a switched one.
You said 10.99v at the starter, 12.4 at the battery, is that under load? Simultaneously? Obviously you can't read both at the same time but can take both separately while starting. I would expect minimal voltage drop to the starter with a good cable. I'm just throwing it out there as there have been threads out there about starter issues that were related to the cable and one would cause an issue with the other.
https://rennlist.com/forums/newreply...ply&p=15024690
https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...ter-cable.html
If I were a betting man I would guess the starter but there is the possibility you have a cable issue which could be causing issues with your starter and battery both.
https://rennlist.com/forums/newreply...ply&p=15024690
https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...ter-cable.html
If I were a betting man I would guess the starter but there is the possibility you have a cable issue which could be causing issues with your starter and battery both.
Any suggestions?
01-05-2019, 11:42 PM
#18
Pro
I think you’ll need to check cables from battery aft to engine. There’s something about dash lights during start in your video that doesn’t look right. Hard to describe what I’m seeing but they seem to snap off suddenly, like there’s a power interruption. Check inside cover of your fuse box. Is there a starter relay?
Last edited by swingwing; 01-05-2019 at 11:50 PM. Reason: Added sentences.
01-05-2019, 11:45 PM
#19
In my case it was taking longer because car is not starting. Again I could be wrong
01-06-2019, 01:16 AM
#20
Intermediate
Well, it seems like you have 3 options of what could be the cause:
1. The starter is bad in some way and cannot turn over the motor. Not enough torque to do it.
2. Voltage is dropping too much on its way from the battery to the starter motor. This is causing the starter to be unable to turn over the motor and causes the solenoid to disengage.
3. The engine is seized and impossible to turn over. Highly doubtful.
My vote is #2.
When I was in college I did all the college budget audio things to (attempt to) impress the ladies. Well, with that came battery draining due to my ignorance and lack of funds to properly do things. When my battery would almost be dead this is exactly what would happen. The draw on the battery when attempting to start was enough to drop the voltage which in turn caused the solenoid to retract as there was not enough voltage to keep it connected. Then the voltage would recover as the draw from the starter motor stopped and it attempted engaging the solenoid again. It would cause the click-click-click of the starter. Everything else would go dark as voltage dropped too far to maintain things.
Eventually as I had this happen far too often it ended up damaging (pitting) the solenoid's contacts. Similar symptoms but it would not continuously click but sometimes engage sometimes not.
In your case if its a new battery and you have faith in it then I would bet its something to do with the positive line to the starter. Corrosion on either end, damaged, etc. As I think about it, you should thoroughly check the positive post's connection. If the issue was exclusively with the cable then I would not expect everything else in the car to lose power (pretty sure its not normal, mine is in storage so cannot confirm). The one thing shared with the electronics and the starter is that positive connection, maybe its got some stuff on it, or wires have come lose inside of the electrical boot.
In theory you can run an additional line from the battery to the starter's positive to give power a different, maybe healthier, path to the starter motor. Though I would only attempt this if you happen to have the correctly sized cable and ends to attempt it.
1. The starter is bad in some way and cannot turn over the motor. Not enough torque to do it.
2. Voltage is dropping too much on its way from the battery to the starter motor. This is causing the starter to be unable to turn over the motor and causes the solenoid to disengage.
3. The engine is seized and impossible to turn over. Highly doubtful.
My vote is #2.
When I was in college I did all the college budget audio things to (attempt to) impress the ladies. Well, with that came battery draining due to my ignorance and lack of funds to properly do things. When my battery would almost be dead this is exactly what would happen. The draw on the battery when attempting to start was enough to drop the voltage which in turn caused the solenoid to retract as there was not enough voltage to keep it connected. Then the voltage would recover as the draw from the starter motor stopped and it attempted engaging the solenoid again. It would cause the click-click-click of the starter. Everything else would go dark as voltage dropped too far to maintain things.
Eventually as I had this happen far too often it ended up damaging (pitting) the solenoid's contacts. Similar symptoms but it would not continuously click but sometimes engage sometimes not.
In your case if its a new battery and you have faith in it then I would bet its something to do with the positive line to the starter. Corrosion on either end, damaged, etc. As I think about it, you should thoroughly check the positive post's connection. If the issue was exclusively with the cable then I would not expect everything else in the car to lose power (pretty sure its not normal, mine is in storage so cannot confirm). The one thing shared with the electronics and the starter is that positive connection, maybe its got some stuff on it, or wires have come lose inside of the electrical boot.
In theory you can run an additional line from the battery to the starter's positive to give power a different, maybe healthier, path to the starter motor. Though I would only attempt this if you happen to have the correctly sized cable and ends to attempt it.
01-06-2019, 01:51 PM
#21
Pro
01-06-2019, 03:55 PM
#22
so you mean what you see in your car is not same with my cat as power dies only from instrument cluster while trying to start and returns back once it is sone